DIY – Transmission Gasket Replacement On A JEEP Wrangler

DIY Transmission Transfer Case Seal

If you prefer to spend your money on traveling instead of expensive repairs and if you like to tinker a lot, you can repair a lot by your own, if you have access to a rental workshop or garage. It's just a little bit of technical skill and good tools, what is needed.

As a trained industrial mechanic I bring at least technical understanding and the JEEP is not exactly a technical marvel.

So I watched some tutorials on Youtube in advance and picked out the part numbers of the required parts. I also called my friend Issa Habakza from HABAKZA Automobile and reserved his rental workshop.

After a lot of traveling many miles, the first signs of use appear. At some point the transmission oil pan started to leak, because the seal started to dissolve. In the course of the upcoming work, I also changed all filters, sealing rings and the transmission oil as well.

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So what is needed?

. Rental Workshop or own working space.
. Car lift and/or car jack.
. Air-hydraulic impact wrench, some screw wrenches and screwdrivers, hammer, torx-set.
. Torque wrench.
. Oil tray.
. Some cloth, a putty, steel brush and some break cleaner.

Spare Parts, Fluids

MOPAR ATF+4® Automatic Transmission Oil (4,7L quantity) - (#68218058AA)
MOPAR Transmission Oil Filter Set (incl. seals)  - (#05013470AE + #05179267AC)
2x Super Blue Silicone Sealing Gasket (Type 613)  - (ASIN B014URMZ6K)

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Preliminary work

. Jack up the vehicle or bring it to working height on the stage.
. Remove skid plates (varies from vehicle to vehicle).
. Place oil tray under the transmisison tray.


Remove transmission oil pan, filter and sealing rings

. Loosen 8mm screws of the oil pan (be careful, oil will eventually come).
. Remove oil pan horizontally, dispose of oil.
. Clean oil pan and magnet, remove silicone with a spatula.
. Remove the primary oil filter (# 05013470AE) by removing (1x) Torx screw, then remove the filter from the gasket.
. Remove sealing ring of prim. filter. Use a tool to pry the oil filter out of the socket (CAUTION).
. Unscrew Cooler Return Filter (# 05179267AC).
. Clean the bottom of the gearbox and remove any silicone residue.

Insert Spare Parts

. New sealing ring of prim. filter. Put sealing ring in the socket first (NOT on the filter) and "press in" with a corresponding nut.
. First insert the replacement filter with its shaft into the sealing ring on the underside, then fix it with the Torx screw on the other side (4.5NM).
. Screw in new cooler return filter (9.5NM).
. Apply silicone sealant on the clean tub (about 3-5mm thick - let it dry for 10min.).
. Fit the pan, tighten 8mm hexagon bolts with 12NM.
. Reinstall skid plates in reverse order.
. Lower the vehicle.
. Wait 12 hours for the silicone to cure (may vary from silicone to silicone)
. Fill up with transmission oil (approx. 4,7L), we started with 4 liters.

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Fluid Level Check - Method 1 (according to workshop instructions)

. Start engine and apply parking brake.
. Shift the transmission into every position and leave it for 30 seconds.
. Bring engine to operating temperature (about 82 ° C).
. Set the transmission to "N", check the level, top up with oil if necessary and wait 2 minutes until the oil has spread.
. The oil level should now wet the "HOT" mark of the dipstick, if necessary fill up until the level fits.

Fluid Level Check - Method 2 (according to standardized workshop instructions)

1. Start engine and apply parking brake.
2. Shift the transmission into DRIVE for approximately 2 seconds.
3. Shift the transmission into REVERSE for approximately 2 seconds.
4. Shift the transmission into PARK.
5. Hook up scan tool and select transmission.
6. Select sensors.
7. Read the transmission temperature value.
8. Compare the fluid temperature value with the chart.
9. Adjust transmission fluid level shown on the dipstick according to the Transmission Fluid Temperature Chart.

NOTE: Engine and Transmission should be at normal operating temperature before performing this procedure.

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The Correct Oil Level Check On The Dipstick.

This isn't easy at all, because the oil is red, but wets the stick so that the oil almost looks transparent. Pulling out and putting in the dipstick won't make it any easier.
The dipstick also has (4) punched holes in addition to the serrated markings. The lowest indicates the level, when cold. The very top - which is crucial for us - indicates the level at operating temperature. Depending on the level, one of these holes will now be "wetted" with oil.
If the upper hole is open and no film has formed, it may be that the level isn't correct.
It's a bit of trial and error.


Too Much Or Too Little Oil - Not A Good Thing!

Low fluid level can cause a variety of conditions because it allows the pump to take in air along with the fluid. As in any hydraulic system, air bubbles make the fluid spongy, therefore, pressures will be low and build up slowly.

Improper filling can also raise the fluid level too high. When the transmssion has too much fluid, the geartrain churns up foam and cause the same conditions which occur with a low fluid level.

In either case, air bubbles can cause overheating and fluid oxidation, and varnishing. This can interfere with normal valve, clutch, and accumulator operation. Foaming can also result in fluid escaping from the transmission vent where it may be mistaken for a leak.



If you know exactly where to go, what to do and what tools are needed, the entire procedure will certainly take no longer than 2 hours. We needed about 4.5 hours, because we had to remove more components than was described in the tutorials. This was partly due to the very different skid plates, generally different subfloors, oil pans and lots of rusty screws.

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