Africa Overlanding – Routes, Borders & Practical Info

How to Deal With Corruption as an Overland Traveler

TiKay — Sun, 15 Feb 2026 12:13:44 +0000

SUMMARY: Dealing With Corruption

Corruption is common in everyday travel situations
You will not change the system on the road
Stay calm, polite and non-confrontational
Know your documents and your legal position
Avoid escalation – time and patience are leverage
Decide pragmatically when to stand firm and when to move on
Personal safety always comes first

From Confrontation to Pragmatism

On this planet there are roughly 30 different personality types – better described as models.
Every human being is a unique mix of genetics, biography and context. No two are identical.
As a result, people act according to their character traits: often similar, rarely identical, usually intuitive – and when it comes to dealing with corruption: very often wrong.

Let’s start with us — Fenny and me.

Fenny is calm, relaxed and composed. She rarely gets genuinely angry, instinctively tries to de-escalate and saves her energy for what actually matters. She connects with people on an emotional level.

I – Totti – am very different. I’m not particularly easy to deal with, when things are pushed too far. In my professional past, the rule was simple: survive.
Everyone was trying to take advantage of you. Over the last forty years I built a thick skin, was often undiplomatic and frequently arrogant – because frankly – arrogance can get you surprisingly far and brought me, where I am now.

I can argue well, but I can also over-argue, derail discussions or destroy them entirely.
I rarely avoided confrontation, usually with my finger pointed firmly in the air.
My legal insurance was busy – courtrooms were familiar territory. And I won. Always.
Head-through-the-wall mentality :

“I’m right and you can fuck off”

Pretty much the worst set of character traits, when it comes to dealing with corruption!

But I learned. Age does that – if you let it.

Today it’s about energy and efficiency. I’m far less willing to engage in confrontation and instead look for pragmatic and – above all – fast solutions. Still, common sense sometimes trips me up and I fall back into old habits.

When it comes to corrupt situations, this is where I learned the most.
I developed my own way of communicating – a specific rhetoric that now works well in the vast majority of cases.
That said: no matter how calm, polite or friendly I am – push it too far and Pandora’s Box opens quickly.

Not everyone is good at talking. Not everyone has confident body language. Some appear introverted, reserved, shy or insecure. These people become – and there is no polite way to put this – easy targets for those trying to exploit them.

This guide shows how you never, ever need to pay money for something that does not exist, is not legitimate and therefore simply illegal. One thing is crucial to understand: not only the corrupt official commits a crime –

You Are Commiting Crime As Well!

Understanding Borders, Checkpoints and Corruption

We’ve lost count of how many borders we’ve crossed over the last thirty years, how many checkpoints we’ve passed and how many police officers we’ve encountered – and, quite often, pushed back against. In Nigeria alone we dealt with 202 checkpoints and several hundred officers. Most of them were ultra-cool, super friendly, but also: corrupt- nearly every-single-one!

Every border crossing and every officer comes with their own challenges and requires a different approach.

To handle this properly, you need to understand three things:
a) what corruption actually is,
b) where it comes from and
c) how officers think and operate.

Once you understand that, you build your strategies around it.

Three Levels of Corruption

Corruption comes in different forms and levels. Not every encounter is about money and not every officer operates the same way. There is a clear difference between informal expectations, subtle pressure and outright demands.

Sometimes corruption appears as vague hints, unnecessary delays or invented problems that suddenly require a “solution.” In other cases it is direct and blunt: pay or you do not move on. The level often depends on location, hierarchy, visibility and how much leverage an officer believes they have.

Low-level corruption is usually opportunistic and transactional. It relies on impatience, uncertainty and fear of consequences. Higher-level corruption is more structured, more confident and often protected by authority or distance from public scrutiny.

Understanding these differences matters. Responding to a subtle hint as if it were an open demand, can escalate a situation unnecessarily. Treating a clear demand as a misunderstanding, can sometimes defuse it.

The key is observation: tone, body language, setting and timing tell you more than words ever will.

These different levels often show up very clearly.

Level 1 – Indirect and informal
This is the most common and often the least aggressive form. It sounds harmless and is usually framed as a favor or a joke: “What do you have for me?” or “Do you have something to eat?”
The intention is to test your reaction. Nothing is demanded openly. If ignored or handled calmly, it often goes nowhere.

Rule of thumb: give them nothing, no matter how friendly the request may sound. Any attempt, any gift, can be interpreted by others as a bribe.
Kindly decline, smile and add a friendly wink – the kind that signals respect, not mockery:
“I’m sorry, I’m not allowed to give anything. You know the rules better than I do – as a professional and respected officer.”
Or, if they ask for a gift, reply with a smile:
“I brought you a (German) smile.”
Laugh lightly and keep the tone warm.

Level 2 – Direct but still personal
Here the tone changes. The request becomes explicit and personal, often mixed with assumptions or pressure:
“Give me your money, you are rich.”
At this stage the officer is no longer fishing – he is asking. The situation is still reversible, but boundaries matter.

Rule of thumb: if you are asked directly for money, respond calmly and keep it light:
“Why would I give you my money, sir?”
Laugh gently – not mockingly! – and add:
“I’m just glad I managed to scrape together enough to visit your beautiful country.”
Stay friendly and humorous, but make it clear through your body language that there is nothing to be gained from you – not now, not later.

Level 3 – Coercive and definitely illegal
This is no longer subtle and no longer negotiable in tone. Authority is used as leverage:
“You will not get your passports back unless you pay.”
At this level, the situation has crossed from opportunism into outright extortion. How you respond now has legal and safety implications.

Rule of thumb: If for instance documents are withheld or payment is demanded, your reaction becomes decisive. Stay calm and confident – you are in the right.
Respond evenly:
“That surprises me. I’m not aware that I need to pay money ,to get documents back, that belong to the German state.”
If they do not back down, remain unhurried and composed:
“I have all the time in the world. Let’s have a coffee while you consider what should happen with the documents.”
As a final step – if drinking a coffee doesn’t help – keep your tone respectful and controlled:
“Respected Sir, I feel this is going in the wrong direction. If our documents are not returned… I’m sorry, what was your name again?… I’m happy to contact the tourism office, the anti-corruption hotline, or my embassy, just to verify that I’m not doing anything illegal or unlawfully refusing to comply.”
Then add calmly:
“I’m appealing to your professionalism, because I can see that otherwise you are doing your job very well.”

Important note!

Level-3 strategies are always situational. Visibility, time of day, location and the overall environment matter. What works at a public checkpoint during daylight, may be inappropriate in a remote area at night.
Use judgment. De-escalation and personal safety always come first.

Author’s note:

When a situation like this happened to me in Guinea, it escalated to the point, where I calmly held out my hands and said: “Then you’d better put handcuffs on me, arrest me and take me before a judge.”

The officer was visibly taken aback – and eventually let us go. USD 120 saved.

Understanding the Roots of Corruption

Not every corrupt officer is, by definition, a bad person. With a bit of empathy, it’s often possible to understand the situations: many of them are in low wages, irregular pay, family pressure, institutional decay and a system that quietly tolerates or even expects informal income.

In many places, corruption is not an exception, but a parallel system. It fills gaps left by weak institutions, poor enforcement and unclear accountability. For some, it becomes normalized behavior – learned early, reinforced daily and rarely challenged.

Understanding this context helps explain behavior, but it does not justify it. Empathy is not approval. Personal hardship does not legitimize abusing authority or shifting responsibility onto others.

There is a clear line between understanding why something happens and accepting it as normal.

Becoming corrupt out of personal hardship
does not legitimize an illegal act.

The Psychology on Both Sides

Encounters at borders and checkpoints are not primarily legal or administrative situations – they are human interactions. Two sides meet, each with their own expectations, pressure and instincts.

Travelers often arrive tired, tense or defensive, focused on rules and documents. Officers, on the other hand, seem to sense from a distance who is behind the wheel – almost as if they can smell the mindset of the person approaching. Confidence, insecurity, impatience or calmness are often read long before a single word is spoken.

Both sides react intuitively, often within seconds. Understanding this shared psychology matters. Many situations escalate or dissolve not because of law or authority, but because of tone, body language and perceived intent. Recognizing how both sides think – and how reactions influence each other – is key to navigating these encounters calmly and effectively.

The Psychological Perspective of Officers

Many interactions at checkpoints follow a simple psychological script. Officers constantly read people. Not documents first – people. Tone, facial expression, body language and reaction speed matter more than what is actually said.

If they sense tension, fear, irritation or hostility – no smile, no eye contact, a short or rude tone – the situation often tightens. What was routine suddenly becomes a “problem.” More questions appear, procedures slow down and authority is asserted more forcefully. Resistance, even passive resistance, is interpreted as disrespect or challenge.

If, on the other hand, they see people who wave, smile, greet them openly and appear relaxed, the dynamic often changes immediately. Friendly behavior signals: no threat, no confrontation, no drama. It lowers the perceived risk and removes the need to assert dominance.

Humor plays a key role. A light joke, a warm smile or an easy laugh humanizes the interaction. It shifts the encounter from control to conversation. Not because officers are naive – but because the situation no longer feels adversarial.

Officers are also sensitive to confidence. Calm, relaxed confidence without arrogance signals experience. It suggests that the traveler knows the routine, is not afraid and is unlikely to be pressured easily. This often leads to quicker resolutions and fewer attempts to escalate.

In short, officers respond less to what you say than to how you make them feel. Friendly, relaxed behavior reduces friction. Tension, defensiveness or rudeness increase it.

Understanding this psychology does not guarantee success, but it explains why some encounters dissolve within seconds, while others spiral into unnecessary conflict.

Friendliness and kindness are always the key.
And a smile disarms – every time.

The Traveler’s Psychology: Intent and Control

Our aim is to retain control from the outset by shaping the interaction early – using distraction, conversational redirection and deliberate engagement through friendliness and humor. Rhetoric and dialectical skill matter, because whoever defines the tone and structure of the exchange, often defines its outcome.

From our side, friendliness is intentional and sometimes deliberately amplified. Not fake and submissive, but proactive. We start talking immediately. An enthusiastic greeting, genuine appreciation for the country, how happy we are to finally be here. This shifts the dynamic instantly.

It distracts and breaks the expected script. Suddenly, the officer is reacting instead of leading.

Posture matters. Chest forward, upright stance. A calm, deep and friendly voice. Open, confident, without hesitation or fear. The message is clear: we are comfortable, we are experienced and we are in control of ourselves (and of the current situation). We lead the interaction and subtly guide where it goes.

If I need to step out of the vehicle, I do so confidently. Upright posture, a handshake if appropriate:
“Nice to meet you. How can I help you?”

We deliberately work with words, body language, humor and emotion.
Sometimes it’s as simple as saying: “Look, I’m getting goosebumps just thinking about the fact that my wife, my car and I made it all the way here – to your beautiful country.”

In many cases, this approach disarms the situation almost immediately. Very often, it never escalates beyond “Level 1”. High-level corruption attempts simply don’t happen.

There is, however, another type: the aggressive officer. Friendly behavior has no effect. The goal here is provocation in pushing you until you lose control and make a mistake.

In these moments, composure is everything. Breathe. Do NOT get angry.
Because “the best statement is the one delivered without anger”.

We prepare mentally for these situations, especially when we know what kind of border or checkpoint lies ahead. I rehearse phrases, sentence fragments and remind myself to stay confident and grounded.

Authenticity, honesty, self-confidence and experience must be visible. Good posture. Clear speech. Respect the officer as a person of authority – regardless of his rank. Never accuse an officer of corruption. Never corner them into a position they cannot exit. Always leave them an exit strategy.

The underlying message is simple and unspoken: I travel long-term. I know how this works. Let’s keep this easy.

That combination – controlled friendliness, confidence and psychological awareness – is often more effective than any argument or document.

If none of this works, we wait it out. We stay calm, remain friendly and never (well… I should say “barely”) become irritated or loud. By doing so, we signal that we have time, patience and enough experience to see the situation through.

If an officer crosses the line, I set boundaries immediately and without detours. I state clearly how this interaction needs to proceed, while explicitly expressing respect for the officer as a person. I make it clear that the situation is drifting out of control.

My voice becomes firmer – still calm and respectful, but noticeably more authoritative than before. This is the officer’s final opportunity to step back before the situation escalates further and is going to open Pandoras Box.

As a final step, I sometimes use a psychological – and not entirely risk-free – approach. I make it clear that I will not pay, no matter what. I explicitly offer myself for arrest and state, that I am willing to be taken before a judge, regardless of how long it takes.

The message is unambiguous: this is the line. No further.

At this point, the officer needs an exit strategy. He has to act, but without losing face. I deliberately lower the tension again, return to a friendly tone and subtle offer a way out, that allows him to disengage without embarrassment.

This is difficult to describe in abstract terms, but at the end of this article, I provide concrete examples of how such exit paths can look in practice.

In the end, we always managed to get out, even when situations escalated and carried real risk.

When Not to Push Further

There are moments when psychology, confidence and patience stop being tools and start becoming risks. Knowing where that line is, matters more than any tactic.

We do not push further at night, in isolated areas or when there are no witnesses. We do not push when alcohol is involved or when the atmosphere turns unpredictable. And we do not sit things out when weapons come into play or when the balance of power is clearly no longer stable.

In those situations, the priority shifts. Safety comes before principle. Getting out clean matters more than being right. Walking away with your freedom intact is always the better outcome.

This is not weakness but sound judgment.

A Legal Reality Check

In real overland travel, corruption patterns vary greatly by region – like we documented in detail during our West Africa journey.

What you’re reading here isn’t meant as instructions or a handbook. It’s simply what we’ve learned over decades on the road – what worked for us, what didn’t and what we adjusted along the way.

Laws change from country to country, authority is interpreted differently and local realities often outweigh whatever is written down in regulations. Every situation is its own mix of people, place and timing. In the end, each traveler has to make their own decisions and live with the consequences.

This is not legal advice. It’s our very experience from the field, nothing more… nothing less.

But hey, let’s be honest – At the end of the day, it’s like this:

The officer at the boom gate is a small cog in the system, someone who rarely has real authority.
They demand respect and often make themselves more important than they actually are. Many of those we encountered, couldn’t even read or write (though to be clear: some absolutely can).

That said, they also have something to lose: their job.
That’s why many act very subtly and – because they’re clever – operate right at the edge of legality, but still on their side of the line.
Others, however, are blunt and rigid and seem to give little thought to the consequences, their actions might have for themselves.

I’m convinced, that as long as you’re not traveling in a country where no law applies at all (what I would call lawless states), travelers are – despite appearances – generally on the safer side and initially have little to fear. In the end, many countries depend on travelers and hardly any country wants a public incident once a traveler starts asserting their rights.

Even in Afghanistan, in February 2026, a corrupt official was arrested by the Taliban after being exposed, because travelers contacted the appropriate authorities. At many border posts, there are notices with phone numbers for “corruption hotlines.” We often subtly draw the attention of potentially corrupt officers to these signs or posters.

As travelers, we usually have little more to lose than time and nerves.
The officer, however, risks his livelihood. That’s just it!

When you’re traveling, the moment you pay, changes everything.

The Cost of Giving In

The moment you give in, you signal that you’re an easy mark. Word travels fast in these circles. By the next checkpoint, you’re no longer just another traveler – you’re a walking ATM. The bar drops instantly. Requests come quicker, demands get pushier and whatever patience existed before is suddenly gone.

There’s also a psychological cost that shouldn’t be underestimated. Every time you pay under pressure, you train yourself to fold. Your confidence takes a hit. The calm, clear-headed way you once handled difficult situations slowly gets replaced by a reflex to simply make the problem disappear. Over time, you stop dealing with situations – you start avoiding them. Travel begins to feel smaller, not freer.

Then there’s the cold legal reality most people prefer to ignore. In many countries, handing over that “little something” is a crime – not only for the officer asking, but also for you paying. What feels like a quick fix in the moment, can later turn into fines, court appearances, deportation risks or permanent marks on your record.

Yes, refusing to pay can cost time, nerves and discomfort. Sometimes it means standing around longer than you’d like, in the heat, the rain or the dust.

But paying almost always, costs more in the long run: to your self-respect, to the travelers who come after you and to the entire corrupt system, that keeps repeating itself, simply because it works.

This isn’t about being a hero or taking the moral high ground.
It’s about understanding, what you’re really buying, when you quietly say, “Okay, fine,” and hand over the cash.

Do NOT do that!

Are there exceptions?

No. Not Really.
Even though, as experienced travelers, we have a lot of understanding for less experienced travelers – especially those traveling with dogs or small children – who may be tempted to pay a small amount to save time or avoid tense situations, it remains a criminal offense. And it can have serious consequences for the travelers themselves.

The only legitimate exception is immediate danger to life or serious physical harm.
If a situation escalates to real, credible threat and paying is the only way to de-escalate and get out safely, survival comes first.

Especially when traveling with children, responsibility, good preparation and clear decisions matter most.

Bribery is illegal in many jurisdictions and not “just a local workaround” – the OECD provides a concise overview of how foreign bribery is treated internationally.

In the end, none of this is really about being “right” or winning some moral argument.
It’s about keeping going… together.

Over time, you learn, where it’s worth digging in your heels and where it’s smarter to let something slide. You also learn humility along the way. We misread situations. We push too hard, say the wrong thing or freeze up. We mess up, feel stupid for a moment, learn from it and try to do better next time.

You’re never going to fix the broken systems you run into. What you can do is, learn how to move through them without losing your own compass and without turning into someone you don’t recognize.

Staying calm when everything feels off, staying kind even when you’re angry and knowing, when to shut up and walk away – those things matter far more than any clever line or power move.

We wish all of you the very best on your journey – whatever your path may look like in the end.
Safe travels… and maybe we’ll cross paths someday, somewhere on the road.

Yours,
Totti & Fenny

(Everything written here was originally written in German by Totti, translated into English and then refined by AI to improve clarity and readability – so that browsers can also translate it more accurately into other languages..)

FAQ - Some Examples and Tips Of How We dealt With Such Situations

How to prepare properly to avoid such situations?

true costs of overland travel

TiKay — Tue, 10 Feb 2026 12:44:26 +0000

SUMMARY: True Overland Travel Costs

Total spent: €78,341.87
Average per month: €1,187
Average per person per day: €19.52
Covers: travel-related expenses (vehicle, fuel, food, internet, visas/permits, maintenance, accommodation, activities)
Not included: home base costs, taxes, mandatory health insurance and long-term savings/investing

Hey travelers from around the world – Fenny and Totti here.

Even though we have traveled to more than 90 countries since 1997 – as shown on the map above – during our 5+ year long-term journey we covered 119,066 km across 47 countries.
And now – after such a long time on the road – we feel it’s time to take a sober look at the financial side of long-term travel.

Countries we covered so far within this 5,5 years:
Germany, Austria, Italy w. Sicily and Sardinia, Hungary, Romania, Serbia, North Macedonia, Kosovo, Albania, Bulgaria, Greece, Turkey, Georgia, Armenia, Kurdistan, Iran, Iraq, Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, Bahrain, United Arab Emirates, Oman, Jordan, Moldova, Transnistria, Tunisia, Spain, Morocco, Mauritania, Senegal, Gambia, Guinea, Ivory Coast, Ghana, Togo, Benin, Nigeria, Cameroon, Republic of the Congo, Democratic Republic of Congo, Angola, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, South Africa, Lesotho, Eswatini.

WHAT DOES A LONG-TERM TRAVEL JOURNEY OR A WORLD TRIP ACTUALLY COST? – 66 MONTHS LATER

Back in 2020, we made the decision to leave everything behind. We sold all our belongings and invested the money in the stock market – without knowing if the plan would work out or what such a journey would really cost in the end.

Using the proceeds from selling our vehicles, we bought a Sprinter 903 4×4, converted it and set off after just 42 days. Originally, two years were planned. Two turned into five and five eventually turned into something open-ended.

We are overlanders and we travel in a very cost-conscious way, following a simple principle: “the less money we spend, the longer we can stay on the road”. We no longer work on a regular basis – only occasionally, when necessary.
Our philosophy is free travel, free camping and free living. We do not avoid hotels or campsites mainly for financial reasons, but because we simply sleep better and prefer living in our own vehicle.

Living cost-consciously has always been part of our lives. Even when we earned good money, we never lived beyond our means. Downsizing therefore came naturally to us. We are perfectly happy wearing second-hand clothes, buying used items or picking things up from the roadside, as long as they are still functional. Recycling or up-cycling – however you wanna call it – is something we genuinely enjoy.

We prefer to spend our money on diesel, on our vehicle and yes – this needs to be mentioned because it is a significant cost factor: we also smoke.
From time to time, a new camera, a laptop or other nerd gadgets are part of our lives and something we do not want to give up. Tourist hotspots, on the other hand, are not our priority. We are far more interested in places that are unknown or rarely visited.

Inside our van, we do not aim for a strictly minimalist lifestyle. A TV is part of it just like a stereo system, a shower with a instant water heater, a diesel heater, a large fridge, proper cooking and washing facilities and sufficient electrical power. Comfort matters to us, but luxury does not.

We do not drive routes twice. Our journeys are planned carefully. Not out of fear or excessive caution, but because we enjoy planning and want to travel efficiently. Detours cost diesel and wear parts – both of which we consciously try to avoid.

We do not eat out every day. Fenny bakes excellent bread, cooks a great goulash and her ribs are simply outstanding. Restaurants are rather rare for us, but we do enjoy finger food and street food from time to time.

So now you know us and our way of traveling. Pure luxury is not our thing, but we also do not travel on the absolute edge.

If you recognize yourself in this approach, you will likely relate much better to our costs than someone, who travels with an overlanding rig, but stays in hotels every night or visits every single attraction. Both approaches are perfectly legitimate – just not ours.

Let’s get started – The journey through our costs.

Pure FACTS:

The following costs do not include fixed expenses (such as taxes, insurances, etc.) as these vary greatly from traveler to traveler. Over the course of the past five years we have gradually disconnected ourselves from Germany, closed our company and reduced the associated costs. Around a year ago we also fully deregistered our vehicle, meaning there are currently no vehicle taxes or insurance costs.

We finance our travels entirely on our own through savings, that generate returns and dividends as well as through passive income streams. These cover a large portion of our expenses while also helping us stay below taxable thresholds, which are relatively high in our case. We consistently aim to remain below these limits and generally succeed in doing so. That said, we are still officially registered in Germany.

In the following section we are talking strictly about travel-related costs. So no “luxury” items included.
(Luxury items such as laptop, 2 smartphones, 2 Mini PCs, camera equipment, mobile power station, a canoe, a drone and other electronic devices, as well as less typical expenses like festival visits, amount to roughly €10,000 for us.)

Included Costs:

Fuel (Diesel)
Vehicle maintenance, repairs & spare parts
Accommodation (camping, lodges, hotels when used)
Food and Groceries
Restaurants and Street Food
National Parks and Sightseeing Fees
Visas and Border-related costs
Communication and Internet (SIM cards, Starlink)
Miscellaneous daily expenses
Cigarettes
PCR Tests
BRIBES? WE NEVER PAID EVEN ONE CENT!

And to keep it short for the impatient:

Overland Travel Costs After 66 Months (Total + Averages)

€78,341.87
Per year: ø 14.243,98
Per month: ø €1.186,39
Per person/ per day: ø €19,50

Let’s Go More Into Detail

On a journey like this some costs are simply unavoidable. Diesel is, of course, the biggest factor – the more you drive, the more you pay. Workshops and repairs are part of the deal as well. Every vehicle breaks down at some point, usually sooner rather than later. The more off-road you drive, the more often you will find yourself in a workshop. Visas have to be paid for, borders are not free and on top of all that we still need to eat, live and get from one day to the next.
But hey… take a look at the numbers and see how much money you could save by not smoking. Let that sink in for a second 😁.

Vehicle Costs (jump directly to the breakdown)	20,389.51€
Miscellaneous (jump directly to the breakdown)	15,897.33€
Food (jump directly to the breakdown)	14,991.99€
Diesel	11,369.33€
Cigarettes	11,087.73€
Internet & Communication	2,473.42€
Accommodation	1,085.90€
Entrance Fees & Sightseeing	1,046.66€

Vehicle Costs Breakdown

Spare parts¹	7,285.57€
Workshops²	6,111.07€
Maintenance³	2,495.99€
Ferries	1,387.57€
Insurance	1,005.11€
TIP (Temporary Import Permit)	512.95€
Toll roads	437.34€
Spare Parts Shipping	427.80€
Carnet De Passage	350.00€
Fees	156.90€
Car wash	153.78€
Parking	53.49€
Rest	11.94€

Go back to the Overview

¹Items we purchased and stored for later use.
²Over time we have drastically reduced these costs as, we now do most of the work ourselves.
³Operating fluids, tires and tools, that I did not previously have.

Miscellaneous Costs Breakdown

Health¹	5.308,46€
Visa	3.974,67€
Hardware Stores	2.750,61€
Shipping/Transport Of Goods	1.576,66€
PCR Tests (only during COVID)	803,99€
Cash / Banking or Exchange Fees	781,13€
Tips and gifts	370,88€
Clothes	366,71€
New Passports	323,90€
Solarmoduls	329,07€
Gas	258,92€
Washing Clothes	218,54€
Copyshops	48,07€
Rest	51.39€

Go back to the Overview

¹ Health also includes a portion of our health insurance costs, which would normally fall under fixed expenses, therefore the total amount here is higher.

Food Costs Breakdown

Food, Groceries etc	12.513,47 €
Restaurants, Street Food	2478,52 €

Go back to the Overview

Want MORE? Here We go:

Our five-year journey can be divided into several distinct phases: Europe, Asia, the Middle East and Africa, for instance. Each continent, each region and each individual country comes with its own financial challenges. What is cheap in one region can quickly become expensive in another and planning assumptions often need to be adjusted along the way.
While travel in and around Europe was still relatively affordable, the sheer costs in Africa can really knock the wind out of you.

So let’s break down the regional costs in a bit more detail.

Anyone who assumes that Africa is a cheap continent to travel through, is seriously mistaken. Africa has the lowest average purchasing power and GDP per capita of all continents, yet for long-term travelers and overlanders it often turns out to be one of the most expensive regions. High border and visa costs, challenging logistics, vehicle wear and limited infrastructure, quickly drive expenses far beyond expectations. Not even touching on the cost of living yet

And to keep it short again for all the impatient:
Costs broken down per region, per year:

Asia
€10.555,80
Per month: ø €879,65
Per person/ per day: ø €14,46

From Turkey to Iran. Spareparts, as well as food and internet is quite inexpensive. Sometimes we only had 350€ per month.

Middle East
€12.501,25
Per month: ø €1.041
Per person/ per day: ø €17,12

In Saudi Arabia visas were very expensive, while diesel was almost free. Cigarettes were extremely cheap in Kuwait but expensive in Oman. Spare parts were often unavailable, so we had to order and ship them from Germany.
All in all, the Arabian Peninsula is not cheap, but it is also not excessively expensive if you set clear limits. Without those limits, this part of the journey can easily become costly as well.

Europe
€14.092,65
Per month: ø €1.174,38
Per person/ per day: ø €19,30

Some countries in Europe are extremely affordable, such as Bulgaria, while others are rather expensive, Greece among them. Overall, prices were largely what we were used to.

Africa
€15.019,75
Per month: ø €1.251,64
Per person/ per day: ø €20,57

Africa surprised us. Not because visas were sometimes very expensive – we expected that – but because of the often outrageous food prices. And we are not talking about “prices for white people”, because in supermarkets prices are the same for everyone. Coffee, chocolate and meat were extremely expensive, often five times higher or more than what we were used to.
Diesel was cheaper than in our home regions, but still relatively costly overall. Spare parts are prohibitively expensive if bought new and Africa is by far the most customs-intensive continent, when it comes to imports. Shipping often feels like it has to be paid for with a kidney.
Southern Africa improves in some respects, but there accommodation- and attraction costs start to hit hard(er).
Some fun facts from the road:
Out of the total €1,085.90 we spent on accommodation, €701.79 alone was spent in Africa.

We always avoided and never paid bribes. We do not know, how we managed that, but read here, why.
During nearly 40,000 km across the Middle East we burned 5,380.44 liters of diesel and paid just €2,028.22 for it. That comes down to an average of €0.37 per liter – numbers that still make Europeans blink twice.
All visas combined cost us €3,974.67, with a solid 62.24% of that spent on the West Africa route alone.
Asia turned out to be the cheapest region when it came to internet access – fast, reliable and surprisingly affordable.
And then there was Oman. We pushed our cost optimization a little too far and drove two detours of roughly 1,300 km each to Kuwait to “optimize🤷‍♀️😂” cigarette prices. Diesel in Saudi Arabia was around €0.16 per liter, while cigarettes in Oman and the UAE were painfully expensive. Not so in Kuwait. Here there cigarettes were amazingly cheap. The result: roughly €1,300 saved – and a strong case study in questionable financial life choices😂.

All in all, we can say that we probably travel less expensively than most – or at least a large part – of long-term travelers. Back when we started, we didn’t really worry about what traveling would cost, but in the back of our minds were always the prices from our old travel style: flights, hotels, rental cars and all that.

Almost every country surprised us – sometimes very positively, sometimes quite the opposite. For us and our way of traveling, it turned out that this is something we can comfortably sustain for quite a while.

Our goal? To keep traveling until God himself comes to pick us up.
Will it work? Let’s talk about that again in 30 years – and if you happen to find us sleeping under a bridge before then, feel free to leave a coin or a slice of bread 😉

Yours,
Totti & Fenny

ohhhhh… PS: If you feel any information is missing or if you have questions, wishes or suggestions, feel free to leave a comment. Much appreciated 🙂

FAQ

How much of the total cost was unavoidable?

transafrica travelmap by travelcandies

TiKay — Thu, 29 Jan 2026 06:22:04 +0000

“AFRICA’s NOT FOR PUSSIES”

… a common saying, how we learned 🤷‍♀️😂
This continent is not a place for improvised long-distance travel. You may have the watches – Africa has the time.

Unlike other continents poor planning in Africa doesn’t just mean inconvenience – it means getting stuck. Visas have fixed validity windows, borders open and close without notice and immigration rules can change from one week to the next. Miss a timing window and you don’t reroute – you wait.

Seasonality matters. Rainy seasons turn passable roads into impassable mud wash away bridges and cut entire regions off for weeks. A route that is straightforward in the dry season can become impossible a month later. Planning without accounting for weather is planning to fail.

Road conditions are equally unforgiving. Distances mean little, when average speeds drop to 20 km/h or less. What looks like a short day on the map, can destroy suspension, tyres and nerves. Vehicle choice is therefore not about comfort, but about survivability repairability and parts availability.

Costs are another common misconception. While daily expenses can be low, borders, visas, carnets, repairs, fuel detours and forced stops add up quickly. Without a realistic budget buffer, plans collapse fast – and yes Africa can be expensive. In our experience it has been the most expensive continent we’ve ever traveled.

Finally Africa demands time. Bureaucracy cannot be rushed. Repairs cannot be scheduled. Waiting is part of the journey. A tight timeline leaves no margin for reality – and reality always wins.

Targeted planning doesn’t remove uncertainty.
But without it, Africa doesn’t forgive.

So what’s the map actually about?

For whom this map exists – and what it is (and isn’t)

This map grew out of decisions made on the road. At borders, on broken tracks, in bad weather and sometimes late at night, when turning around was no longer an option.

It answers the questions, that matter once you’re already out there:
Where does this route really go? What will slow you down? What looks easy on the screen but turns into a problem on the ground? Where to sleep, where to get internet, how visas work and where patience matters more than speed.

The map connects routes, borders, delays, road conditions and logistics into one clear picture.
It supports decisions, it doesn’t replace them. Use it as orientation, not instruction.

What it is
. Driven routes and tested waypoints
. A realistic view on borders, logistics and road conditions
. A tool to reduce uncertainty and costly mistakes

What it isn’t
. A guarantee
. An inspiration map
. A fixed itinerary

Who it’s for
For travelers and overlanders who don’t just drive off and hope for the best. Many, many turn back – not because they lack courage, but because they misjudge timing, paperwork, weather, roads or costs.

Use it like a compass, not like autopilot.

What You’ll Find On The Map

Country Infos
Country-specific information for overland travel, including practical notes, local conditions and an info marker in every country we visited. Each country info includes photos and a linked YouTube video for real context beyond text.

Driven Routes (34,029 km)
Routes that have been physically driven, recorded with a GPS tracker and documented. Includes photos from the road to show real conditions.

Borders & Checkpoints
Border crossings and internal checkpoints that were actually used. Supported by photos and occasional videos to illustrate procedures, waiting situations and complexity.

Embassies, CDP & Immigration
Relevant embassies and immigration-related locations, including carnet de passage handling. Where useful, visual material is included to document locations and processes.

Logistics
Practical logistics such as fuel, supplies, repairs, SIM cards, water, LPG/gas, restaurants and several other usefull businesses and services. Many entries include photos showing availability and conditions on the ground.

Overnight Camps
Wild Camp spots or official camp sites used or evaluated during travel, including camps and practical stopovers. Most locations include photos to give a realistic impression.

DANGER
Areas or situations that require increased awareness. Visual material is included where it helps to understand context, without sensationalizing risk.

Road Conditions
Road quality, surfaces, seasonal problems and slow sections. Photos and videos are used to show what a road actually looks like when it matters.

Sightseeing POIs
Selected points of interest that are genuinely worth stopping for. Entries often include photos or videos to show what makes them relevant.

How TO USE the map properly

The map works on all devices. Appearance and behavior may vary depending on screen size and operating system. This is defined by Google, as the map is based on Google My Maps.

On the left side you’ll find the main menu. Google limits My Maps to a maximum of 10 layers, which is why some content is grouped. For example, all POIs across all countries are combined into a single layer.

Depending on your device, the menu may already be visible or collapsed. On some devices it appears when you swipe up from the bottom of the screen, on others when you swipe from left to right. This behavior is also controlled by Google and cannot be customized.

Layers can be shown or hidden by simply enabling or disabling the checkbox. This allows you to focus on what’s relevant at any given moment.

Some layers contain grouped points. A typical example is DANGER, where multiple entries share the same icon. These layers can be expanded or collapsed to show or hide individual points.

Sightseeing POIs are not grouped. Each location uses a specific icon that reflects what it represents, such as waterfalls, forests, viewpoints, or landmarks. This makes it easier to distinguish them directly on the map without opening lists.

The idea is simple: turn layers on and off depending on what you need right now. Planning, orientation, or problem-solving.

Additional notes for the icon cloud on the left of Africa.

The icon cloud highlights the key areas that shape long-distance travel across Africa. Each symbol stands for a specific field of information that becomes relevant at different stages of the journey, from early planning to daily decisions on the road.

Behind each icon you’ll find focused notes on topics such as health precautions, documents and visas, vehicle readiness, water and food handling, fuel and gas, finances, navigation, safety, waste and personal mindset.

Taken together, the icons reflect how many parallel factors influence progress. Travel rarely fails because of one big issue, but because several small ones add up. Addressing them early, keeps routes open and choices flexible once you’re underway.

On the lower right of the map (between Africa and Madagascar), you’ll see a temperature icon, representing a climate spreadsheet, which represents the temperatures and rainfalls based on the historical weather from 1991-2023.
(Source: Climate Knowledge Portal)

Final Notes, Limitations and Access

Update Status
The map is updated continuously while we are on the road. All information reflects real conditions at the time of travel and is adjusted when routes, borders, or procedures change. Still, Africa changes faster than any map can keep up, so critical points should always be checked shortly before reaching them.

Reality Check
Borders change rules overnight. Visas get reinterpreted. Roads disappear after a single rainy week. Security situations can shift without warning. This map reduces uncertainty, but it cannot remove it.

Technical Limitations
The map is built on Google My Maps and follows Google’s technical constraints. Google allows a maximum of 10 layers, which is why some content is grouped. Layout and performance may vary depending on device and operating system. Offline use is limited by the platform itself.

Responsibility
This map does not replace personal responsibility. Route choice, timing and decision-making remain entirely with the traveler. What worked for us at a specific time may not work the same way later.

Who this map is not for
This map is not intended for short trips, guided tours, or travelers who deliberately avoid planning. If you prefer pure improvisation, this tool will likely feel restrictive rather than helpful.

Access, donations and future pricing
The map will remain accessible and completely free of charge. A small donation as a sign of appreciation is welcome, but absolutely not required. As a thank you, donors receive the map as a KML file, which can be imported into their own navigation apps.

If you’d like to donate, you can do so via PayPal at:
𝗶𝗲𝗱𝗻𝗹𝗮𝗯@𝗳𝗼𝗼𝘁𝗮𝗴𝗲𝗰𝗮𝗻𝗱𝗶𝗲𝘀.𝗰𝗼𝗺

Use the map critically. Plan carefully and keep in mind that the road always has the final say.

Already interested?
Drop us a mail and we’ll be with you in no time😊

Totti & Fenny

The post transafrica travelmap by travelcandies appeared first on TRAVELcandies-On-Tour.

Through The Wild West Of Africa

TiKay — Thu, 08 May 2025 09:28:37 +0000

Why You Should Take A Journey Through West Africa – And What Awaits You

The decision to drive our 20 year “old” van along the West African coast to Angola is not a simple one. This is not an adventure you select from a catalog. Rather, it is a journey toward self-discovery, toward others and toward a continent that many know only from the media but few truly understand. It’s a yearning to experience authentic Africa – far removed from idealized notions and stereotypes.

Why undertake this journey?
What motivates someone to embark on such a trip? The answer lies not just in the desire for adventure, but also in the thirst for real experiences. West Africa is not a region of “epic landscapes” found on postcards. It is defined by its people, its culture, its resilience, its capacity for improvisation – and, above all, the reality that holds up a mirror to you.

This is not a challenge you take on simply to have a good time. Those who set out on this journey are in search of something real… at least we were. Mental fortitude, pragmatism and a profound willingness to embrace the unforeseen are essential. Every day on the road is an adventure that tests you and demands much of you.

As John F. Kennedy once said: “We don’t do it, because it’s easy, we’re doing it, because it’s hard“… or at least seems to be.
We didn’t take this journey because it was simple – we wanted to find out what truly awaited us. We wanted to confront the clichés, challenge urban legends (wherever they exist) and create awareness without sugarcoating anything. We aimed to remove fear where it’s unfounded – and face our own fears and preconceptions where it’s not.

For us – on the other side – the journey itself was never the goal, as we had long understood that West Africa is not a continent of pure beauty as we expect it. Our main destination was southern and eastern Africa, starting in Namibia. We simply aimed to avoid the rainy season in West Africa and pass through Nigeria as quickly as possible, since the rainy season here can last up to nine months.

Our plan worked perfectly. The October start was ideal, allowing us to travel through the various countries without undue haste. We saw, experienced, learned and felt a great deal. However, as time went on, we began to realize just how exhausting it all was. The need for recovery periods became more frequent and they needed to last longer.

Six months, then, turned out to be the perfect amount of time. It gave us enough space to take in the essence of the region – its people, culture and challenges – without burning out. We could dive deep into the reality of the journey while still maintaining a balance between exploration and the need to recharge. West Africa, with all its complexities, demands this balance, as it is not a place where one can simply race through. Time, patience and resilience become just as important as the experiences themselves.

Ultimately, the six months we spent in West Africa allowed us to engage deeply with the region and by the end, we understood the continent in a way that can’t be captured in photos or postcards. What we gained wasn’t just knowledge, but a profound transformation in how we view the world – and a recognition of our own limits, strength, and capacity to grow.

The Vehicle: 4×4 Not Required and Overrated! – But Endurance: Most Important And Often Underestimated

Choosing a vehicle for such a journey is more than a practical decision – it is part of the adventure… and it’s part of your life! If it breaks down, you’re stuck… and that might happen somewhere in the middle of nowhere.

We traveled in a Mercedes Sprinter 311 CDI 4×4. At first glance, one might think that a 4×4 is absolutely necessary, but that’s not the case! A good vehicle doesn’t need complex technology or specialized equipment. What it needs is a bit of ground clearance, robustness and… simplicity!
“Keep it simple, keep it stock”

Whether you’re traveling with a truck, a van or a micro-camper: the ideal car does not exist!

Truck: Offers maximum autonomy and off-road capability, ideal for extreme terrain and long isolation – but it’s expensive, bulky and always attracts unwanted attention due to its size and appearance.
Van: Strikes the best balance between comfort, mobility and discretion – spacious enough to live in, agile enough for narrow roads and border crossings and inconspicuous enough to park in urban or rural settings without standing out.
Mini-camper: Affordable, highly maneuverable and low-profile – perfect for budget-conscious travelers – but comes with serious compromises in comfort, storage and long-term livability, especially in remote areas.

For us personally – and especially on this tour – the van was the ideal solution: plenty of storage, not too big and not too small and – crucially – it provided the ability to retreat and lock ourselves in when needed. As the journey progressed, we came to realize just how essential that last point truly was.

As we drove a big part of this journey together with our friends Abenteuer-Campervan in a Sprinter 2×4, we were astonished, how capable this car was, apart from the fact that you don’t just “casually drive in” somewhere in this part of Africa, you often end up in compounds or deep jungle with no option to turn around.

Bring everything you might need and can’t easily find on the road – belts, hoses, sensors, diesel filters, seals, tools – because once you’re out there, you’re on your own.

Don’t count on garages: most repairs are quick fixes meant to get you 500 km down the road, if that. If you can’t fix it yourself, you’ll pay. Then you’ll wait. And you’ll hope.

Ordering spare parts? It’s possible – but slow, costly and nerve-wracking. Africa has some of the highest import duties worldwide. A €100 part can quickly turn into €300–500 with shipping, customs and bribes.

Your best bet: know how to fix it yourself – and carry what you need to do it.

The Roads and Diesel: The Invisible Challenges

The quality of the roads varies greatly – from well-paved roads in Morocco or Kongo to nearly impassable tracks in Guinee or Nigeria. A vehicle with less frills handles these conditions much better.
A crucial note: Every vehicle will suffer. Dust, extreme heat, potholes and dryness take their toll on every vehicle – from the bodywork, the transmisson, the suspension to the engine.

Road conditions are a recurring theme throughout this journey. Asphalt often ends in the middle of nowhere and what follows are corrugated dirt roads, potholes and impassable stretches. Even then the best 4×4 has its limits.

Diesel in this part of Africa is said to be of poor quality – often containing over 2000 ppm of sulfur, adulterated, diluted with water or simply contaminated with dirt and sludge. It makes no difference whether it comes from a bottle or a fuel station.
In our case, the diesel pre-filter never showed water or excessive dirt and we didn’t experience any loss of power, black smoke or misfiring. We were lucky.
However, since our vehicle has neither an EGR system nor a DPF, we can’t truly assess the fuel quality. If your engine has either component, it’s wise to remove them, deactivate them or have them reprogrammed.

Better safe than sorry – we’ve heard more than a few stories of engine damage from fellow travelers.

Hygiene and Health: Prevention Is Key

Health risks on this journey should not be underestimated. Malaria, gastrointestinal diseases and infections are widespread. But again, prevention is the key. We prepared ourselves with essential medications, vaccinations and a well-stocked first aid kit. The conditions require constant hygiene – from handwashing to careful water purification.

Water is generally abundant in West Africa – but not always in drinkable form. Filtration and chlorination should be considered to avoid health risks. As for food, cooking for yourself is often the best option. In cities, there’s fresh fruit and vegetables, but refrigeration chains aren’t always reliable – and you shouldn’t take that risk.

Roadside vegetables are often contaminated with fine dust, heavy metals or other toxins. In rural areas, pesticide levels can be extreme; in cities, fecal bacteria are more common due to irrigation practices. Many travelers wash their vegetables with bleach (no joke) or potassium permanganate – others avoid them entirely. We mostly did the latter.

Malaria is prevalent in many regions of West Africa, transmitted through the bites of infected mosquitoes and can lead to severe illness or even death if not treated promptly. Prevention involves taking antimalarial medications, using insect repellent, sleeping under treated mosquito nets and wearing long-sleeved clothing, especially during peak mosquito activity at night.
The mosquito population in this part of Africa is and was very high, though we never contracted malaria. We used Care Plus with 50% DEET as our primary protection.

Vaccinations: Yellow fever (mandatory), Hepatitis A/B, Typhoid, Meningitis, Rabies – strongly recommended in nearly every country in Western Africa.

Visa, Bureaucracy and Checkpoints: Patience And Kindness Are Essential

Obtaining visas is not easy – especially in the West African countries. Some countries require several weeks to process a visa (or you’ll need to pay a lot on extra “express fees”) and the requirements vary significantly. Many countries require an invitation letter, hotel reservations and bank statements. Anyone who thinks bureaucracy is only a European problem will be disabused here… Africa takes it just to a complete new level of bullshittery.

You’ll constantly deal with border formalities and corruption at the checkpoints. Crossing borders is rarely quick or straightforward – whether it’s through questioning, bribery or long waits. Corruption is present in every single country we passed through, up to Namibia. Sometimes it’s subtle, sometimes more aggressive – often starting with a simple request, then escalating to a demand. Many times, papers won’t be handed over without payment. Fees are often imposed that don’t exist or officials simply expect “gifts.” Being asked for nothing is the exception, not the rule. The absurdities of some situations will make you question the generic common sense.

Allow a lot for buffer time, be patient, always be friendly and never ever pay bribes. N.E.V.E.R!

Fun-Fact: On our route straight through Nigeria we passed 203 checkpoints. See the video here.

People In West Africa

In general, the people we met were very kind, friendly, always waving and smiling. Deep conversations were rare, but Nigeria really surprised us in that regard. Ultimately, though, it often boiled down to begging: for food, drink, or money. People were surprisingly selective when it came to food and beverages, but when it came to money, they almost always wanted euros or dollars.

The widely spread, urbanized and often romanticized myth that even Black people are frequently begged from, just didn’t match our experience. We never once saw locals begging other locals. This gave the whole situation a rather unpleasant taste, especially when we really wanted to connect with the people. In the end, it led to us retreating more and more, avoiding contact as much as possible.

The behavior of many people we encountered on this journey can’t simply be explained by “poverty” – because, at least in much of West Africa, hunger or severe scarcity isn’t the dominant issue. Food and water are often abundant and nature provides generously. As one local put it: “Africa allows us to be lazy. We don’t have to do anything for all this – it’s a gift from God.”

What we experienced was less true need and more a deeply rooted expectation toward white travelers: We give, they take. It’s an unspoken, one-sided arrangement – often without gratitude or reciprocity. It’s not openly demanded, but almost universally expected. Those who don’t play along are quickly ignored or met with disapproval.

That makes genuine connection difficult. Over time, you stop feeling seen as a person and start feeling like a walking wallet – smiled at only as long as you’re handing something over. When you realize that, you begin to withdraw – not out of arrogance, but for your own peace of mind.

That’s the reality and it’s one you have to face head-on, no matter how uncomfortable the pure truth may be!

Pricing Structure – “The Price Of Paradise”

Aside from the already high visa costs – often several thousand euros for two people – it’s the daily expenses that make West Africa surprisingly expensive. Diesel may seem cheap, but since it’s almost always paid in cash, poor exchange rates and high ATM fees quickly add up. Food can also be a financial trap: a can of chili con carne for €15, a can of ravioli for €11 or 1 kg of tomatoes for €13 – not rare, but standard in this region. Imported goods are outrageously expensive in general. Spare parts are even worse – sometimes up to twenty times the European price, if you can find them at all.

Campsites (if available) often charge European prices for African standards and wild camping is increasingly complicated by “expected gifts” or direct demands. Even internet is a luxury: in some countries, a single gigabyte of mobile data can cost up to €15.

Conclusion:
Africa – contrary to popular belief – is expensive. Looking back, West Africa has been one of the most expensive legs of our entire journey.

But look forward to Namibia – suddenly, everything gets so much better😉

Safety On The Road: Reality Over Hysteria

Despite all the horror stories and warnings, we rarely felt truly unsafe during our journey through West Africa. Yes, we were stolen from multiple times and occasionally harassed or mistreated – but let’s be honest: that can happen anywhere in the world. What matters is staying alert, trusting your instincts, avoiding risky places at night and securing your valuables. Most encounters were peaceful and many people treated us with basic hospitality.
Fear shouldn’t stop anyone from visiting these countries – but naïveté can be just as dangerous.

Wild Camping: A Challenge, Not a Problem

Finding a good wild camping spot in West Africa isn’t always easy, but it’s far from impossible. Sometimes it takes longer, sometimes you get lucky right away – but one thing’s for sure: you’re rarely ever completely alone. As we like to say, “There’s always someone who suddenly screws themselves out of the ground – and you have no idea where they came from.” Whether deep in the bush or behind a remote village, curious visitors are almost guaranteed.

West Africa: A Land of Details and Encounters

What truly defines this journey is not the landscapes, but the encounters. West Africa is not a land of “epic natural wonders,” but a continent shaped primarily by its people and cultural diversity. In each country, in every city, in every village, you meet people who improvise, who live, who fight and who share. Here, it quickly becomes clear that life goes on, no matter how bad the roads or the weather.

The true value of this journey lies not in the “epic” views, but in the changes it brings. West Africa challenges you – as a traveler and as a human being. You’ll place less importance on luxury and develop more understanding of life and the challenges faced by its people. You’ll become quieter, clearer, stronger. You’ll learn what really matters.

Conclusion: Should You Do It? Yes, absolutely.
This journey will change you. It will challenge you, push you to your limits and there will be moments when you won’t know how to move forward. But you’ll also discover just how strong you truly are.

Would we do it again? No, definitely not.
Not because it was bad – but because it demands everything from you. It’s a journey that you should experience only once in your life. But this experience will stay with you for the rest of your life.

We’re truly glad we had the courage to take on this journey – and deeply grateful we were able to do it. Even though it was often exhausting and became increasingly demanding, we wouldn’t trade this part of our trip for anything. It was breathtaking, adventurous, grand and unforgettable – yet also grueling, punishing and at times deeply challenging. An absolutely spectacular experience we’re now thankful has come to an end.

Along the way, we met quite a few other travelers – and we also heard countless stories about people who didn’t make it all the way through. Many turned back early or ended their trip halfway, not because they lacked passion or preparation, but because the stress simply became too much. The constant uncertainty, the never-ending logistics, the daily “what’s next?” pressure and the mental load of always having to stay alert can wear you down faster than you’d ever expect.

For some, it was the bureaucracy that broke them: borders that took forever, documents that suddenly weren’t “right” anymore, or rules that seemed to change from one hour to the next. For others, it was the vehicle – small issues turning into big problems, parts that couldn’t be found, repairs that took days and the realization that in some places you don’t just fix a breakdown… you live inside it until it’s solved. And then there are the costs. Even if you try to travel on a budget, West Africa can surprise you with expenses that feel completely disproportionate – visas, checkpoints, “fees”, overpriced accommodation when camping isn’t an option and the constant need to adapt your plans on the fly.

What makes it even harder is that there are no real breaks. You don’t get to switch off. Even on “easy” days you’re thinking ahead: fuel, safety, road conditions, weather, where to sleep, how to avoid trouble, how to stay healthy. You’re always calculating, always negotiating, always making decisions – and that continuous pressure is exactly what pushes many people to quit. Not because they are weak, but because the journey is relentless.

And honestly? We understand every single one of them. There were moments when we questioned our own choices, when we felt drained, overstimulated and just tired of having to fight for every little thing. West Africa doesn’t hand you comfort. It doesn’t care about your plans. It forces you to let go of control – and that is both the hardest part and the greatest lesson.

Finishing this route gave us a quiet kind of pride. Not the loud “look what we did” kind – but the deep feeling of having endured something real. We came out of it changed: tougher, humbler and far more grateful for the simplest things. And while we’re happy it’s over, we’ll always carry it with us – as one of the most intense chapters of our lives.

Our TRANSAFRICA TRAVELmap

From Morocco to Kenya – overland, unsupported and as raw as it gets. This route reflects 2 years of dust, diesel, detours and discovery.
Each marker tells a story: some beautiful, some bitter, but all real.
It’s not the fastest way, but it’s ours.

And if you’re planning your own journey through West Africa:
Help yourself!

This map includes everything you might need for your own adventure
– A fully recorded track through each individual country
– Accurate GPS coordinates for campsites and wild spots
– Border crossings with detailed notes
– Visa and bureaucracy info by country
– Road conditions with pictures
– Fuel stops and diesel quality notes
– Safety tips and checkpoint locations
– Mechanics, markets and supply points
– Personal comments and warnings
– Dozens of pictures
– Links to our videos on youtube

It’s not just a map – it’s a lived route. Use it. Adapt it. Make it yours.

The map is still a work in progress and I’m working on it every day. In August/September we’ll most likely be in Kenya and by then the map editing should be completed.
Until that time, the map is completely free to access – but donations are very welcome😌
(details you’ll find inside the map).

Just send me an email or click on the map. Google will then ask me to approve access for you.

Read the blog about the TRANSafrica TRAVELmap for further informations and many more details.
And hey… visit our traveler buddy “Lubo”, who set up another pretty good resource for Africa travelers recently. Whether it’s about Visa, Border Crossings or even accomodations : you’ll find some very helpful infos here.

Enjoy!
Yours Totti from TRAVELcandies-On-Tour

The post Through The Wild West Of Africa appeared first on TRAVELcandies-On-Tour.

Africa Overlanding – Routes, Borders & Practical Info

How to Deal With Corruption as an Overland Traveler

SUMMARY: Dealing With Corruption

From Confrontation to Pragmatism

“I’m right and you can fuck off”

You Are Commiting Crime As Well!

Understanding Borders, Checkpoints and Corruption

Three Levels of Corruption

These different levels often show up very clearly.

Understanding the Roots of Corruption

The Psychology on Both Sides

The Psychological Perspective of Officers

Friendliness and kindness are always the key.And a smile disarms – every time.

The Traveler’s Psychology: Intent and Control

When Not to Push Further

A Legal Reality Check

But hey, let’s be honest – At the end of the day, it’s like this:

The Cost of Giving In

Are there exceptions?

(Everything written here was originally written in German by Totti, translated into English and then refined by AI to improve clarity and readability – so that browsers can also translate it more accurately into other languages..)

FAQ - Some Examples and Tips Of How We dealt With Such Situations

true costs of overland travel

SUMMARY: True Overland Travel Costs

Hey travelers from around the world – Fenny and Totti here.

WHAT DOES A LONG-TERM TRAVEL JOURNEY OR A WORLD TRIP ACTUALLY COST? – 66 MONTHS LATER

Fuel (Diesel)

Vehicle maintenance, repairs & spare parts

Accommodation (camping, lodges, hotels when used)

Food and Groceries

Restaurants and Street Food

National Parks and Sightseeing Fees

Visas and Border-related costs

Communication and Internet (SIM cards, Starlink)

Miscellaneous daily expenses

Cigarettes

PCR Tests

BRIBES? WE NEVER PAID EVEN ONE CENT!

Overland Travel Costs After 66 Months (Total + Averages)

€78,341.87

Let’s Go More Into Detail

Vehicle Costs Breakdown

¹Items we purchased and stored for later use.²Over time we have drastically reduced these costs as, we now do most of the work ourselves.³Operating fluids, tires and tools, that I did not previously have.

Miscellaneous Costs Breakdown

¹ Health also includes a portion of our health insurance costs, which would normally fall under fixed expenses, therefore the total amount here is higher.

Food Costs Breakdown

Asia€10.555,80

Middle East€12.501,25

Europe €14.092,65

Africa€15.019,75

FAQ

transafrica travelmap by travelcandies

Through The Wild West Of Africa

Why You Should Take A Journey Through West Africa – And What Awaits You

The Vehicle: 4×4 Not Required and Overrated! – But Endurance: Most Important And Often Underestimated

The Roads and Diesel: The Invisible Challenges

Hygiene and Health: Prevention Is Key

Visa, Bureaucracy and Checkpoints: Patience And Kindness Are Essential

People In West Africa

Pricing Structure – “The Price Of Paradise”

Safety On The Road: Reality Over Hysteria

Wild Camping: A Challenge, Not a Problem

West Africa: A Land of Details and Encounters

Friendliness and kindness are always the key.
And a smile disarms – every time.

¹Items we purchased and stored for later use.
²Over time we have drastically reduced these costs as, we now do most of the work ourselves.
³Operating fluids, tires and tools, that I did not previously have.

Asia
€10.555,80

Middle East
€12.501,25

Europe
€14.092,65

Africa
€15.019,75