TRAVELcandies-On-Tour

2 Years Overlanding Through Africa – Our Conclusion

TiKay — Mon, 15 Jun 2026 12:41:03 +0000

2 Years Overlanding in Africa

Who we are and how we travel

We are Fenny and Totti, a German couple, traveling the world since 1997. Since 2020, we have been traveling full-time, living and working from our 2004 Mercedes Sprinter 4×4.

We usually do not rush from one tourist attraction to the next. We prefer slow travel, remote places and authentic experiences over organized tours and crowded highlights. Most nights are spent in our van, often far away from campsites and cities.

Our journey is not about collecting countries. As photographers and overlanders, we are constantly searching for spectacular landscapes, unique natural scenery and places far away from the usual tourist routes. Along the way, we enjoy meeting local people and gaining a deeper understanding of everyday life in the countries we visit.

During the past two years, we have driven more than 45.000 kilometers across Africa, crossing deserts, rainforests, mountains, savannas, megacities and some of the most challenging roads we have ever encountered.

Everything in this article is based on our personal experiences and observations from life on the road.

What is overlanding for us?

Overlanding means different things to different people. Some focus on the vehicle, others on the destinations, the challenges, or simply the journey itself.

For us, Overlanding means freedom.

Whenever possible, we leave the main roads behind, get off the asphalt and head into the places, where few people go.
We are happiest, when parked in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by epic nature, with no fences, no schedules and no neighbors. These are often the places, where we stay for several days, simply enjoying the moment.

But Overlanding is not only about landscapes.

It is also about people, cultures and perspectives. We love stepping into worlds, that are different from our own, learning how others live, listening to their stories and sometimes questioning our own assumptions along the way.

Some of our most memorable moments in Africa happened far away from famous attractions. They happened during conversations with locals, around campfires with fellow travelers, at roadside markets or in small villages where curiosity quickly turned into friendship.

This is important to understand, before reading the rest of this article. Many travelers may have a completely different definition of overlanding and may therefore feel countries very differently than we do.

We have the watches, Africa has the time.

How it all started

Our African adventure began in Morocco in October 2024.

Originally, we planned to travel together with two other overlanders. However, things turned out differently. One couple decided to return home from The Gambia, while with the other traveler, we eventually realized, that our travel styles simply did not match. So, for most of Africa, it was just the two of us again.

The plan was simple: reach Nigeria and Cameroon before the middle of March. Anyone who has traveled through tropical Africa knows why. The rainy season can turn roads into mud pits, border crossings into endurance tests and entire regions into logistical nightmares. Trust us, nobody really wants to travel through large parts of Africa during the rainy season, if they can avoid it.

And this part of the plan worked perfectly. We reached Nigeria just in time. Only a few days later, the rainy season arrived.
For that reason, the first part of our journey was much faster than we would normally prefer. We kept moving south along the West African coast, always with one eye on the calendar and the approaching rains.

At the same time, I (Totti) was constantly working on my TRANSAFRICA TRAVELmap, documenting our route and publishing regular updates, so other travelers could follow our progress and benefit from our experiences.

Once we reached Angola, everything changed. OK, we had been robbed the 2nd time (1st time in Spain), but overall and at least we were able to travel much slower from now on.

From Namibia onward, we finally slowed down totally. The pressure seemed to be gone, the roads improved and we could once again travel the way we enjoy most: slowly, spontaneously and without fixed plans. Instead of racing against the weather, we simply followed it, staying where we liked and moving on, whenever we felt like it.

What followed, were a few months of relaxed travel through Southern Africa, eventually taking us all the way to South Africa and later north again through Tanzania to Kenya.

At least that was the plan.

As so often happens in long-term travel, reality had other ideas. Routes changed, plans evolved and some opportunities were simply gone. In the end, our carefully timed strategy stopped working and we found ourselves spending almost six months traveling during the rainy season. Not exactly what we had intended, but as it turned out, some of our most memorable (and remarkable) experiences happened precisely, because things did not go according to plan.

The Challenges of Overlanding Africa

Before we get to the individual countries, it is important to understand that overlanding Africa is not always easy… it is simply NOT.

Many readers expect every African country to feel completely different. In reality – from an overlanding perspective – many neighbouring countries share surprisingly similar challenges, infrastructure levels and travel experiences. This is one reason why some of our observations may appear repeatedly throughout this article.

Large parts of our route involved some of the worst roads we have ever driven. Traffic was often chaotic and exhausting, especially in West and East Africa. Until we reached Angola, wild camping was frequently limited to carefully selected locations due to security concerns, which significantly reduced the sense of freedom we usually enjoy.

There was also an endless amount of bureaucracy. Border crossings, permits, checkpoints, customs procedures and paperwork often required far more time and patience, than the actual driving. Corruption, requests for unofficial payments and constant begging were part of everyday travel throughout much of the continent. In every country we visited, these issues existed to some degree – sometimes only occasionally, sometimes several times a day. As a result, they were generally not a decisive factor in our “ratings”, unless they were exceptionally severe or had a significant impact on our overall experience.

That said, none of this should come as a surprise. We have already written extensively about these topics throughout our journey. This article is not intended to focus primarily on the difficulties, but rather on the countries themselves, the landscapes, the wildlife, the people we met, the experiences we had and how each destination compares from our personal perspective as photographers and overlanders.

How We Felt the Countries

Before we begin, one important note: these “ratings” reflect our personal style of overlanding. It’s more of a feeling rather than a rating.

The things that mattered most to us were freedom, landscapes, wild camping, wildlife, photography opportunities, local people, adventure, road conditions, costs and the overall experience of traveling through a country.

Because of that, some countries may rank much higher or lower than many travelers would expect.

Africa Is Not Really All About Countries

This may sound strange in an article that lists countries, but after two years in Africa, we came to that simple conclusion.
Yes, every country has its own character, culture and highlights. But many of the things that shaped our experience, transcended borders.

The memories that stayed with us, was the combination of all the things already mentioned above, that shaped our overlanding experience.

That is why these ratings should not be taken too seriously. They are simply an attempt to summarize our experiences in countries, that were often far more similar than different.

What We Did Not Consider

These “feelings” are not based on hotels, campsites, restaurants, nightlife, shopping, beach resorts or organized tourist activities.

The Gateway To Africa – MOROCCO 🇲🇦 (and western Sahara)

Morocco was our gateway to Africa and – looking back – one of the easiest countries to enter and travel. The ferry crossing from Spain is straightforward, immigration is efficient and mobile internet, water supply and infrastructure are excellent by African standards.

What really makes Morocco special, however, are its landscapes. From the Atlas Mountains to the Sahara, the country offers an incredible variety of scenery and countless opportunities for wild camping, adventures and photographing. For many overlanders, Morocco is, where the feeling of freedom truly begins.

The people were mostly friendly and welcoming, although in some tourist areas they could be quite persistent. Police checkpoints were common, but generally relaxed and professional. Corruption was not a significant issue during our travels.

Morocco combines stunning landscapes, good infrastructure and a genuine sense of adventure. It is easy to understand, why it remains one of the most popular overlanding destinations on the continent.

Our Personal Highlights: Atlas Mountains, Medouar Crater, Erg Chegaga

Our Personal Feelings so far: Hell yes, our African journey has finally begun. We are absolutely loving it. We’d happily spend much more time here, but the clock is ticking. More of this on the rest of the journey, please.

MAURITANIA 🇲🇷

Mauritania was our first real taste of the Sahara and felt noticeably more African than Morocco. Crossing the border required patience, plenty of fiches and a certain tolerance for bureaucracy, but overall the process was manageable.

Road conditions were generally better than expected, although some sections were heavily corrugated and the tracks near the Diama border were among the worst we encountered so far. Fuel quality is often criticized, but apart from slightly increased fuel consumption, we experienced no major issues. Water was widely available and overnight spots were easy to find.

The people were mostly friendly, although children in particular could sometimes be quite intrusive. Corruption existed, but remained limited and easy to avoid, by simply staying polite and firm. Nouakchott, on the other hand, was one of our least favorite capitals in Africa, with heavy traffic, smog and little charm.

What makes Mauritania special, is not its cities but its vast emptiness. Endless desert landscapes, remote tracks and a feeling of isolation, create an atmosphere that is difficult to find elsewhere. While the country did not completely blow us away, it offered some unforgettable moments and a genuine sense of adventure.

Our Personal Highlights: The endless Sahara, the Iron Ore Train, the feeling of absolute vastness.

Our Personal Feelings so far: We definitely need to come back one day. This country has far more to offer, than we were able to see. That said, the constant attention and occasional intrusiveness of some people can become exhausting.

SENEGAL 🇸🇳

Senegal was the country, where we got our first real taste of sub-Saharan Africa. The landscapes were changing, the atmosphere felt different and for the first time we felt, that we had truly left North Africa behind.

The country was easy to travel. Road conditions were generally good, diesel quality and availability were no problem and we experienced no bribery attempts at all. Water was easy to find and wild camping was usually straightforward. Mobile internet, however, was disappointing, with weak coverage and often very slow speeds.

The people were friendly and generally less intrusive than in some neighboring countries, although curious children were never far away. Dakar was also one of our least favorite capitals, with heavy traffic, smog and a surprisingly high cost of living.

While Senegal never completely amazed us with its landscapes, it was a country, we genuinely enjoyed. For the first time, we experienced the hectic energy of African streets, bustling markets, chaotic traffic and the feeling of stepping into a completely different world. Everything felt more exciting, more adventurous and less familiar. Senegal was, where our African journey truly began.

Our Personal Highlight: The first real sub-Saharan Africa feeling, bustling street life and the excitement of entering a completely different world.

Our Personal Feelings so far: Okay?… so this is where Africa really begins? Everything feels different now. We are excited, curious and highly motivated for what lies ahead.

THE GAMBIA 🇬🇲

The Gambia may be Africa’s smallest mainland country, but it left a surprisingly big impression on us. Traveling here was easy, roads were generally excellent and we encountered some of the friendliest people of our entire journey. Corruption was virtually nonexistent and communication was effortless, thanks to English being the official language.

Known as the Smiling Coast of Africa, The Gambia fully lived up to its reputation. People were incredibly open, curious and welcoming. Conversations happened everywhere, whether at markets, roadside stalls or simply while walking through town. The country felt colorful, vibrant and full of life.

The Gambia River forms the backbone of the country and offers beautiful scenery, especially away from the larger towns. Along the Atlantic coast, endless beaches and palm-lined shores create a relaxed atmosphere, that feels very different from many other parts of West Africa.

For us, The Gambia was also, where we had our first real experience of African bush landscapes beyond the cities and villages. Combined with the lively markets, the colorful street life and the warmth of the people, it became one of the more memorable stops of our West African journey.

Our Personal Highlights: The incredibly friendly people, colorful markets, vibrant street life, the beautiful Atlantic coast, the Gambia River and our first real experience of African bush.

Our Personal Feelings so far: Finally the Africa we had imagined? OK, let’s go on, we are curious.

GUINEA 🇬🇳

Guinea was the country, where our journey started to become genuinely challenging. The landscapes became greener, more mountainous and considerably wilder. At the same time, the roads deteriorated dramatically. Some of the tracks we encountered here, rank among the worst and most demanding of our entire travels.

Traveling through Guinea required patience and flexibility. Finding fuel, mobile coverage and wild camping spots was generally not a problem, but everyday logistics were often more difficult than in neighboring countries. Food shopping was particularly challenging, with very limited availability and surprisingly high prices. In fact, Guinea turned out to be one of the most expensive countries we visited in West Africa.

The people were mostly very friendly and welcoming. Interactions with police and officials, however, became noticeably less relaxed than before. Corruption was a recurring issue and requests for money became increasingly frequent, occasionally turning into lengthy stand-offs.

Conakry deserves a special mention. In more than 17 years of traveling through more than 90 countries, it was the most stressful city we have ever driven through. Endless traffic, pollution, chaos and constant pressure pushed us closer to our limits than anywhere else on our planet so far. The first time we really felt exhausted!

Yet despite all these challenges, Guinea delivered exactly the kind of Africa, many travelers imagine. Burned fields, remote villages, rough roads, overloaded vehicles, red dirt and a constant sense of unpredictability created an atmosphere that felt raw, authentic and truly unforgettable.

Our Personal Highlight: The brutally challenging roads, that often tested our patience, but also showed us the Africa, we had imagined long before this journey began. We also saw some of our very first bigger waterfalls in western Africa.

Our Personal Downside: Corruption was the biggest issue for us. Several officers repeatedly demanded large sums of money and occasionally refused to return our documents unless we paid. One encounter escalated to the point where I eventually told them, they could arrest me, because I had no intention of paying a bribe. Fortunately, they backed down in the end, but it was one of the first really unpleasant experiences of our entire trip.

Our Personal Feelings so far: Uh-oh… things are getting serious now. Wilder landscapes, rougher roads, more chaos, more adventure and far more challenges. This is no longer easy travel.

IVORY COAST 🇨🇮

After the challenges of Guinea, Ivory Coast felt surprisingly modern and easy to travel. The border crossing was straightforward, friendly and completely free of corruption. Roads improved dramatically and the drive towards Abidjan was one of the smoothest we had experienced so far.

The country offers a good balance between infrastructure and adventure. Fuel quality was excellent, mobile coverage reliable and supplies easy to find, especially in larger cities such as Yamoussoukro and Abidjan. While prices were higher than expected, everyday travel remained uncomplicated.

People were generally friendly and welcoming. Police checkpoints were infrequent and professional. For the first time in a while, we could simply focus a bit more on traveling, instead of dealing with bureaucracy or road conditions.

Abidjan stood out as one of the most developed cities we encountered in West Africa. Traffic was heavy, but manageable and the overall level of infrastructure was noticeably higher than in many surrounding countries.

Personal Highlight: Reaching remote beaches through dense coastal bush and spending time completely alone on some of the most beautiful stretches of coastline, we found in West Africa.

Personal Downside: Like elsewhere in West Africa, requests for food were common. One particular incident, where donated food was simply discarded in front of us, left a lasting impression and ultimately led us to stop handing out food during the remainder of our journey.

Our Personal Feelings so far: It feels great to be here with our own vehicle. The motivation is still high and we’re looking forward to discovering, what lies further down the road.

GHANA 🇬🇭

After the stories, documentaries and reputation surrounding Ghana, we expected a country, that would feel noticeably more developed and prosperous, than much of West Africa. In reality, our impression was quite different.

While Ghana certainly offers some modern areas and functioning infrastructure, large parts of the country felt far less developed, than we had anticipated. Outside the bigger cities, everyday life often looked very similar to what we had already experienced elsewhere on the route. The roads ranged from excellent to heavily damaged, the villages blended into the familiar bush scenery and many landscapes failed to leave a particularly lasting impression on us.

People were generally friendly and respectful. Begging was less intrusive, than in some neighboring countries, but it certainly had not disappeared. Officials and police were mostly professional and corruption was not a significant issue during our stay.

Traveling through Ghana was straightforward. Fuel quality was good, supplies were readily available and infrastructure was generally adequate. One unexpected challenge was obtaining a local SIM card, as tourists officially require a Ghana Card, which is only available to residents. In practice, finding a helpful local was often the easiest solution.

Wild camping was rarely a problem in Ghana, just as it hadn’t been in the countries before. Sooner or later, there was always a track leading into the bush and usually a place to spend the night. What we increasingly missed, however, were the truly epic campspots, that make us want to stay for several days rather than just one night.

By this point, we were beginning to realize, that Africa is not a typical overlanding destination in the way we had experienced and loved elsewhere. The freedom was there, but the spectacular camps, dramatic landscapes and endless opportunities to linger, were often less common than we had expected.

For us, Ghana was neither disappointing nor exceptional. It was simply another chapter of West Africa, without the memorable highlights or unique character, that some other countries left us with.

Our Personal Highlights: Discovering Fufu at the Organic Beach Resort. Ghana’s famous traditional dish quickly became one of our favorite local meals during our journey through this country.

The International Stingless Bee Centre. Until then, we had never seen bees like these. Some species have no stinger at all, while others are so tiny, that they are smaller than ants. It was fascinating to learn about these unique pollinators and their role in the local ecosystem. Even more surprising was the honey. Unlike much of the heavily processed honey sold in supermarkets around the world, the honey produced here, turned out to be genuine, natural honey. We even tested it ourselves and were impressed by both its taste and quality.

Our Personal Feelings so far: A little more variety in the landscapes would be nice. Slowly but surely, the constant requests and begging are starting to wear us down a bit. But that’s still okay. More and more, we’re realizing, that the journey itself has to remain the destination.

TOGO 🇹🇬

After some of the more demanding countries further west, Togo felt surprisingly calm, organized and easy to travel through. The country may be small, but it immediately stood out through its friendly atmosphere, good infrastructure and welcoming people.

Roads were generally in excellent condition, including many dirt roads. Fuel quality was good, checkpoints were relaxed and we experienced no corruption, bribery attempts or other hassles. Mobile internet was among the best we had encountered so far, with fast and reliable coverage throughout much of the country.

The landscape became more varied and slightly hillier, especially away from the coast. While Togo does not offer the dramatic scenery of some other destinations further south, it provides a pleasant mix of villages, forests, mountains and rural life. Wild camping remained easy and safe and traveling through the country felt refreshingly uncomplicated.

What stood out most was the overall feeling of peace and stability. Togo almost felt like a chance to catch our breath.

Our Personal Highlight: Spending two weeks at Permatogo. It was exactly what we needed at that stage of the journey. A place to slow down, recharge and simply enjoy life, without constantly being on the move.

Our Personal Feeling so far:
Yeah, Togo is definitely a country, where we could have stayed a bit longer. Looking back, this was one of the first countries, where we really noticed, that our priorities were changing and we were just way too fast.

BENIN 🇧🇯

Benin was also an easy country to enter and travel through. The e-Visa process was straightforward, approval arrived quickly and the border crossing itself was uncomplicated. Roads ranged from good to excellent, diesel was readily available and of good quality and we encountered no bribery, harassment or other problems during our stay.

The people we met were friendly, welcoming and relaxed. Officials and police officers were professional and respectful, making Benin feel calm and uncomplicated. Water was generally easy to find at churches and fuel stations and overall logistics posed very few challenges.

Unfortunately, our time in Benin was very short, which means, we never really got the opportunity to explore the country in depth. As a result, Benin remains one of the countries, we know the least about on this journey.

Or Personal Feeling so far: Unfortunately, our time in Benin was far too short to form a deeper connection with the country. What we did experience was pleasant, uncomplicated and surprisingly relaxed. At the same time, our thoughts were already drifting towards Nigeria. Obtaining the visas had been ridiculously complicated and everything we had read beforehand painted a picture of a difficult and unpredictable country. For the first time on the journey, we felt genuinely nervous about what was waiting for us at the next border.

NIGERIA 🇳🇬

Nothing – really nothing – could really prepare us for Nigeria.

This was the country we had worried about the most, long before arriving. Obtaining the visa had been so difficult and almost everything we had read beforehand, painted a picture of chaos, corruption and insecurity. By the time we reached the border, we were already mentally exhausted from months on the road.

And then Nigeria delivered exactly that chaos – and so much more.

Roads ranged from decent to absolutely terrible, second only to Guinea on our route. Traffic was unlike anything, we had experienced before. Millions of people, endless noise, reckless driving, aggressive overtaking, overloaded trucks, motorbikes appearing from every direction and an overwhelming amount of activity, road blocks and police checkpoints, military checkpoints everywhere. The amount of litter was shocking, corruption was present almost everywhere and nearly every single checkpoint came with some form of request for money, food or gifts.

With the more than 200 checkpoints along our route, interactions with police and officials became a daily routine. Yet despite the constant attempts to extract something from travelers, staying calm, smiling and remaining friendly, always solved the situation.
We never paid a single bribe… and we do not know, how this was even possible.

Nigeria is one of those countries, that cannot really be explained. It has to be experienced. The scale, the intensity, the noise, the pressure and the sheer number of people, create an atmosphere unlike anything else, we encountered anywhere on the planet.

And yet, despite all of this, Nigeria gave us one of the biggest surprises of the entire journey.

Our Personal Highlight: Without question, the people. We met some of the funniest, kindest and most welcoming people of our entire African journey here. This includes police officers, soldiers and government officials. The corruption potential was enormous, but so was the humor, charm and friendliness of all the people.
Looking back, we still do not know, whether it was our healthy portion of masochism, but our time in Nigeria was quite literally breathtaking.

Our Personal Feeling so far: By now we were running on empty. We desperately wanted to reach Angola and leave the challenges of West and Central Africa behind us. But there was still a long way to go. Somewhere in Nigeria we realized something important: this was a route we never wanted to drive a second time. We would push through, but once was enough.

Additional Conclusion:
Despite all the chaos, the corruption, the traffic and the countless warnings, we received before entering Nigeria, we never once felt genuinely unsafe or uncomfortable.

Even the most corrupt officers never gave us the impression of being criminals or dangerous people. Most interactions felt more like a tiresome game, than a serious threat. As exhausting as the checkpoints and road blocks became, they were usually accompanied by smiles, jokes and surprisingly friendly conversations.

For safety reasons, we avoided wild camping and instead stayed at churches, hotels and other secured locations. Looking back, however, we believe, this level of caution was probably not necessary on our route. Based on our personal experience, Nigeria felt far less dangerous than its reputation suggests.

The country may be chaotic beyond imagination, but the overwhelming friendliness of its people was impossible to ignore. In the end, Nigeria challenged us mentally and physically, but left us with far better memories than we ever expected before crossing the border.

CAMEROON 🇨🇲

Cameroon was the only country on our entire journey that, in hindsight, we would have preferred to skip. Our experiences here were overwhelmingly negative from the very first day after crossing the border. Encounters with officials, military personnel and police officers were often stressful, confrontational and sometimes outright aggressive. It quickly became clear, that we wanted to leave the country as soon as possible.

That being said, our experience does not necessarily represent Cameroon as a whole. We are fully aware, that experiences can differ greatly from traveler to traveler and ours may have been unusually unfortunate. Nevertheless, the atmosphere we encountered, left a lasting impression. Even beyond our personal experiences, it became apparent, that there are underlying tensions within parts of the country.

Traveling through Cameroon required patience. Traffic was often chaotic, checkpoints frequent and interactions with authorities could be exhausting. Corruption was a permanent recurring issue, particularly in the French-speaking regions, where demands for money and attempts to intimidate travelers were not uncommon. Several situations became uncomfortable enough, that we remained constantly alert whenever approaching checkpoints.

The roads ranged from terrible to surprisingly good. While some sections were rough and slow-going, the route from Yaoundé towards the Congo border was among the best road conditions, we had seen in Central Africa so far.

The people themselves were difficult for us to connect with. Compared to previous countries, we experienced fewer smiles and less openness. Whether this was due to cultural differences, regional circumstances or simply bad timing on our part, we cannot say. However, it contributed to the feeling, that Cameroon was fundamentally different from the countries we had traveled through before.

Mobile coverage with MTN was good, fuel was readily available and obtaining water was generally possible through churches and fuel stations. Practical travel logistics were manageable. The real challenge was navigating the human and administrative environment.

Our Personal Downside: The constant confrontations with authorities created an atmosphere, that made us want to leave the country almost from the very first day.

Our Personal Feelings so far: We increasingly noticed that our patience and resilience were wearing thin… really thin. After months on the road, the constant begging, checkpoints and daily hassles were affecting us more and more. In Cameroon especially, we found ourselves becoming less friendly and more withdrawn than before. More and more, we were seeking peace, solitude and freedom, instead of social interaction. What we wanted most at this point, was to finally slow down again and return to the style of travel we truly enjoy.

REPUBLIC OF THE CONGO 🇨🇬

After the exhausting experiences in Cameroon, the Republic of the Congo things changed abruptly. The roads became excellent, traffic nearly disappeared and checkpoints became rare. For the first time in a long while, traveling felt easy again.

The country turned out to be one of the most relaxed and straightforward destinations on our entire route. Corruption was barely noticeable, interactions with officials were friendly and uncomplicated and we generally felt very safe throughout our journey.

The roads deserve special mention. Apart from a few rough stretches around Pointe-Noire, road conditions were outstanding. Combined with the low traffic volume, driving became enjoyable again after weeks of stress and constant vigilance.

One challenge, however, was fuel availability. Diesel shortages occurred regularly and finding fuel could sometimes become a real concern. Whenever diesel was available, we filled up immediately. The fuel quality itself seemed perfectly fine and never caused us any issues.

Interestingly, this was also the country, where we recorded our lowest fuel consumption of the entire journey. While Rossi usually consumes around 12–13 liters per 100 kilometers, consumption dropped to just 9.9 liters here. Several times and after several tests, we simply couldn’t explain how that could possibly have happened. Draw your own conclusions.

Mobile coverage was among the weakest we encountered during the journey. Outside larger settlements, internet access was often unavailable and data packages were relatively expensive.

Overall, the Republic of the Congo was a calm, pleasant and surprisingly easy country to travel through. It gave us a much-needed opportunity to recover from the stress and tensions of the previous countries.

Our Personal Highlight:
Taking a boat tour through the Congolese wilderness and seeing gorillas in their natural habitat, as well as visiting the Equator Monument.

Our Personal Feelings so far:
The Republic of the Congo helped us calm down again after some difficult weeks. However, we also noticed, that we were increasingly withdrawing from social interactions. We rarely sought contact with people anymore and mostly kept to ourselves. The desire to slow down and travel at our own pace was becoming stronger with every passing week.

DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF THE CONGO 🇨🇩

The Democratic Republic of the Congo was never really intended to be a destination for us. It was simply a transit country on the way to Angola, the country we had been looking forward to for months.

At the time of our journey, parts of the country were once again experiencing conflict and instability. However, our route was far away from the affected regions and we never encountered any security-related problems. For us, the plan was simple: keep moving and get to Angola as quickly as possible.

Traveling itself was manageable. Traffic was generally light and road conditions ranged from good to poor, but nothing exceptional. The major exception was Matadi.

Matadi was an absolute nightmare. The traffic, road conditions and general chaos made it one of the most unpleasant urban experiences of our entire route. Outside of Matadi, however, the country passed by without leaving a particularly strong impression.

Corruption was present, although generally manageable. We encountered various fees, taxes and situations, that felt quite questionable, but nothing escalated into serious problems. Officials and officers were mostly friendly, even though we often had the feeling, that someone was trying to extract a little more money whenever possible.

Fuel availability could become problematic. Many stations either had no diesel available or were unwilling to sell fuel. Filling up completely, before leaving Pointe-Noire, proved to be a very good decision.

Overall, our passage through the Democratic Republic of the Congo was relatively uneventful. Apart from Matadi and occasional logistical challenges, the country remained more of a transit experience, than a destination in its own right.

Personal Downsides:
Matadi. Without any doubt. The city was chaotic, exhausting and by far the most difficult part of our passage through the country.

Another thing, that slowly started to catch up with us, was the rainy season. More frequent downpours, muddy roads and grey skies became part of daily travel. It wasn’t a major problem yet, but it was a clear reminder, that the dry season was coming to an end and that conditions further south could become much more challenging.

Our Personal Feelings So Far:
By this stage, our focus had shifted almost entirely towards Angola. After months of challenges and constant movement, we were no longer interested in sightseeing, socializing or exploration. We simply wanted to keep moving south and finally slow down again.

Angola 🇦🇴 – A New Chapter Begins

Angola felt like a turning point on our journey. After months of challenges and constant movement through West and Central Africa, we finally crossed into a country, that allowed us to breathe again.

The landscapes became dramatically more impressive. Mountain ranges, canyons, escarpments and vast open spaces replaced much of the monotony, we had experienced before. For the first time in a long while, we were not just taking snapshots anymore. We were actually photographing again.

Traveling through Angola was generally straightforward. Traffic was manageable, roads ranged from acceptable to good and checkpoints were no longer a constant concern. Corruption was hardly noticeable and driving became enjoyable again.

Money, however, could be challenging. ATMs were often crowded, withdrawal limits were low and both VISA and Mastercard frequently caused problems. Exchanging money at the border proved to be the easiest solution.

Security was somewhat mixed. While we never felt seriously threatened, Angola was the first country, where we experienced repeated attempts to access our vehicle. We were robbed at a beach and on several occasions people tried to open our doors while we were inside. Even at a police station in Caxito, someone attempted to check the door handles. Basic caution is definitely recommended, especially at beaches and in urban areas.

The people appeared reserved, but generally friendly enough. Officials and police officers were mostly professional, although Angola’s bureaucracy can be spectacularly absurd at times.

Road conditions varied considerably. Main roads were often decent, while some sections between Luanda and Lubango could be rough. Diesel availability remained problematic in the north, but improved significantly further south.

One important note: Angola was experiencing a cholera outbreak during our visit. Water should always be filtered, disinfected or treated before use.

Our Personal Highlights:
The Tundavala Gap, the increasingly spectacular landscapes and finally having opportunities to create real photographs again instead of merely documenting the journey.

Our Personal Downside:
Spending two full days dealing with prosecutors and authorities, because we had once again become victims of theft. The amount of bureaucracy involved was almost beyond belief.

Our Personal Feelings So Far:

Finally.

We had made it through the part of Africa, we never wanted to drive a second time. The pressure was gone almost instantly. For the first time in months, we felt genuine relief and found ourselves enjoying the journey again, rather than simply pushing forward.

Angola felt like the beginning of a new chapter. The landscapes became more impressive, the travel became easier and our enthusiasm returned. With renewed energy and a great deal of optimism, we looked ahead to everything, that was still waiting for us further south.

Hell yeah, Southern Africa – we’re comin’!

NAMIBIA 🇳🇦

After the difficult and exhausting months further north, Namibia felt almost like coming home. We already knew the country from a previous journey and looked forward to reaching it long before crossing the border.

The biggest difference compared to West and Central Africa was the sense of freedom. Suddenly there was space again. Space to drive, space to think and space to spend a few days somewhere without constantly feeling rushed or observed.

We spent three months in Namibia and explored large parts of the country. While prices have increased noticeably since our last visit, the landscapes remain as spectacular as ever. Endless gravel roads – often heavily corrugated – mountain ranges, deserts, dry riverbeds and vast horizons constantly reminded us, why Namibia has become such a popular overlanding destination.

One thing we noticed quickly was, that wild camping is often portrayed as easier than it actually is. Large parts of the east are fenced farmland, while the west offers far more opportunities for remote camps and solitude. Once you reach those western regions, the feeling of freedom becomes difficult to beat.

Another thing we had missed far more than we realized, was the food. After many months in West and Central Africa, Namibia was the first country, where we could once again find many of the things, we genuinely enjoy. Good quality meat, liver sausage, proper cold cuts and well-stocked supermarkets suddenly became part of everyday life again. Everything was readily available and surprisingly affordable.

Henties Bay deserves a special mention. Not only did we discover, what was probably the best salami we have ever eaten, but we also stocked up on large quantities of biltong, something we had been looking forward to for a very long time.

For the first time in many months, we stopped counting kilometers. The pressure disappeared. We slowed down, stayed longer in places and simply enjoyed being on the road again.

Our Personal Highlights:
Sossusvlei, Deadvlei, Spitzkoppe, Fish River Canyon, Spreetshoogte Pass, Etosha National Park and its wildlife. In reality, much of central and western Namibia felt like one continuous highlight.
Perfect meat and the best salami in the world.

Personal Downsides:
Wild camping can be surprisingly difficult in the eastern and southeastern parts of the country, due to fences and private land.

Our Personal Feelings so far:
Namibia felt like a reward after everything that came before. Good food, beautiful landscapes, freedom and a much slower pace finally brought back the kind of travel we enjoy most. For the first time in a long while, we felt relaxed again.

SOUTH AFRICA 🇿🇦 – When Dreams Collide with Reality

South Africa is undeniably one of the most spectacular countries on the African continent. The variety of landscapes, mountain ranges, coastlines, canyons, wildlife areas and scenic roads is extraordinary. It is easy to understand why millions of tourists visit every year.

Our plan had originally been simple: stay for six months, enjoy the country and use the time to avoid the rainy season further north. Unfortunately, reality quickly got in the way. The first major frustration began with the visa extension. Despite countless attempts, phone calls, visits to authorities and discussions with officials, we were unable to pay for the extension. The process was online only and neither banks, VFS offices, nor government staff could and wanted provide any meaningful help. The answer was always the same: it must work online.

South Africa also challenged some of our expectations about overlanding. Unlike many other countries, true freedom camping is extremely limited. Almost everything is fenced, privately owned, protected, reserved or part of a national park. “Millions” of kilometers of fenced areas speak for themselves.
While there are countless campsites, picnic sites and parking areas, finding those remote and epic places, that many overlanders seek, is often impossible or discouraged for security reasons.

Security was a constant topic throughout our stay. We personally experienced several attempted thefts and were repeatedly warned by both locals and police. During our time in the country, local news seemed filled almost daily with reports of murders, armed robberies, shootings and violent crime. Not far from one of our camps, a woman was raped and murdered. Elsewhere there was a fatal bar shooting and a young man was killed over a simple misunderstanding.
All of this happened within just a few days.
Whether these events directly affect travelers is another question, but they inevitably shape the overall feeling.

One experience affected us particularly deeply. We became first responders at a severe traffic accident and remained there from the first minute until the end. Despite many people standing nearby, hardly anyone helped. A young man eventually died. It was one of the most difficult moments of the entire journey.

What surprised us, was the contrast between the security situation and the people themselves. Most South Africans we met were friendly, helpful and welcoming. The police were equally professional and polite. We never experienced bribery, harassment or any serious problems with officers. The feeling of insecurity came far more from what was happening around us, than from the people we actually interacted with.

Another topic that became increasingly visible, once we spent more time away from the tourist routes, was the ongoing tension between different population groups. Conversations in rural areas often revealed strong racial resentment from all sides. It was a subject, that repeatedly surfaced during our travels and left us with the impression, that many wounds from the past remain far from healed.

Financially, South Africa was also much more expensive than we expected. Nearly every attraction has an entrance fee. Waterfalls, viewpoints, canyons, parks and reserves – all come with separate charges. For shorter holidays this is hardly an issue. For long-term overlanders, traveling for several months, however, the costs add up quickly.

For travelers with rental vehicles, comfortable campsites and a holiday budget, South Africa is fantastic. We felt exactly the same during our first visit in 2006. But traveling the country for several months as independent overlanders, gave us a very different perspective.

Our Personal Highlights: Blyde River Canyon, God’s Window, Bourke’s Luck Potholes, the Drakensberg Mountains, Sani Pass, Mountain Zebra National Park, Tsitsikamma National Park, Knysna, the Wild Coast, Cape Town, Cape Agulhas and – not least – the excellent food and arguably the best biltong in the world.

Our Personal Downsides: Security concerns, limited overlanding freedom, expensive attractions, failed visa-extension procedures, increasing costs, constant fencing and restrictions on wild camping.
Another thing, we noticed repeatedly was, how sensitive many people reacted to criticism of their country. As long as we praised South Africa, conversations were easy and enthusiastic. The moment we raised concerns about safety, costs, bureaucracy or other issues, reactions could change dramatically. Some people became defensive, others ended the discussion altogether or dismissed our experiences. It often felt, as though criticism from foreigners was unwelcome, even when based on personal observations, rather than prejudice.

Our Personal Feelings so far: Not in any way good. We were genuinely disappointed. South Africa offered some of the most beautiful landscapes of the entire journey, but at the same time it gave us some of the least freedom. We found ourselves increasingly frustrated and were ultimately happy to leave. We ended up enjoying our time in Lesotho far more. For us personally, South Africa is not a good overlanding country. It won us over at first sight, but lost us somewhere along the road.

For six years, we have been carrying a bottle of wine around the world.
By now, it is more than twenty years old. We had saved it for South Africa – the country we had been looking forward to more than any other.
We never opened it.

LESOTHO 🇱🇸 – left us speechless

The rainy season had already begun and yet every single kilometer felt like a tribute to nature. Endless mountain ranges, deep valleys, winding passes and dramatic skies turned even the simplest drive into an experience. For us, Lesotho is the most beautiful country in Africa.

Wild camping is possible, but not always easy. Especially in the east, people are everywhere and privacy can be hard to find. The western part offers more opportunities and generally feels calmer.

The people are incredibly friendly, cheerful and welcoming. As elsewhere in Africa, privacy was sometimes difficult to find and curious locals, especially children, were rarely far away. Nevertheless, our overall experience with the people of Lesotho was overwhelmingly positive.

Our Personal Highlight:
Honestly? The entire country. Sani Pass, the mountain roads, the remote highlands and the breathtaking scenery around almost every corner. Lesotho felt like one giant highlight.

Lesotho made us forget the frustrations of the previous months. We spent more time looking at landscapes than worrying about logistics. If South Africa disappointed us, Lesotho did exactly the opposite. The only reason we left was that our South African visa days were running out.

Our Personal Feelings so far:
Shit! The rainy season is starting… and we are right in the middle of it.

ESWATINI 🇸🇿 – Kingdom of Eswatini (formerly Swaziland)

Eswatini was one of those countries, that was pleasant to travel through, yet never quite managed to leave a lasting impression on us.

By the time we arrived, the rainy season had fully set in. Many tracks had turned into mud and venturing away from the main roads was often no longer an option. As a result, we probably saw less of the country, than we would have during the dry season.

In general, Eswatini does not offer the same concentration of major attractions as some of its neighbours. The eastern part is dominated by farmland and is considerably less accessible. We found the western regions far more appealing, with better scenery and a stronger sense of being out in nature.

The people were friendly, relaxed and noticeably less intrusive, than in many other countries along our route. Begging was minimal and interactions with police, officials and border staff were pleasant throughout.

Our Personal Highlight:
Phophonyane Falls and the mountain track to the Bulembu border.

Our Personal Feeling so far:
After everything we had experienced during the previous months, Eswatini felt more like a place to pause, than a destination in its own right.

It is very safe, easy to travel and certainly worth visiting. At the same time, it lacked that special something, that makes a country stay in your memory for years.

Nice to visit – not necessarily a place where we would spend months.
The rain sucks!

BOTSWANA 🇧🇼

Botswana became one of the biggest surprises of our entire African journey.

When we entered the country, we only planned to stay for a few days. There was no grand plan, no long bucket list and no expectation, that Botswana would become one of our favorite countries. Yet somehow, a few days turned into three months.

Unlike many other African countries, Botswana simply lets you travel. There is very little bureaucracy, almost no corruption and hardly any interference with your daily life. You drive, explore and enjoy the country at your own pace.

The real star of Botswana is its wildlife. Especially in the north around the Okavango Delta, animals are everywhere. Elephants casually walk through campsites, hippos appear where you least expect them and wildlife encounters become part of everyday life. Unlike many places where nature feels managed and controlled, Botswana still feels genuinely wild.

Landscape-wise, Botswana is not as dramatic as Namibia or Lesotho. You will not find endless mountain ranges or spectacular coastal scenery. Yet the country has something equally valuable: space. Endless open spaces. Vast pans. Quiet camps. Empty tracks disappearing into the horizon. It is a country, that grows on you the longer you stay.

Most importantly, Botswana gave us something, we had been missing for a long time: the feeling that travel itself was fun again.

Our Personal Highlights: Khwai River, Kazuma Pans, Kubu Island, Kukonje Island, Makgadikgadi Pans.

Our Personal Downsides: None. We even finally got Starlink here.

Our Personal Feelings so far: This is how African overlanding should feel. Freedom, safety, wildlife, friendly people and very little bureaucracy. If Botswana had a bit more epic scenery, it would probably be close to perfect. For us, Botswana is an overlander’s dream.

ZIMBABWE 🇿🇼 – Blew us away!

Zimbabwe took everything we already loved about Botswana and added another layer of adventure.

The freedom was extraordinary. Wild camping was not just possible, it was often spectacular. Night after night we found beautiful spots without fences, without restrictions and without somebody telling us, where we could or could not stay. After countries, where every square meter seemed to belong to someone, Zimbabwe felt refreshingly open.

What really surprised us was the diversity. One day we were overlooking the vast waters of Lake Kariba, the next day we were fighting our way along the infamous Binga Road, shaking Rossi to its limits. Then came Hwange National Park with wildlife encounters, that left us speechless and later the green highlands around Nyanga. Zimbabwe constantly managed to reinvent itself.

The country also arrived at exactly the right moment. The rainy season had not fully taken hold yet, temperatures were pleasant and many tracks were still accessible. Combined with affordable national parks and generally friendly people, travelling here felt easy and rewarding.

Of course, not everything was perfect. We caught a thief red-handed and had a rather annoying encounter with two female police officers. But compared to everything else Zimbabwe offered, those moments were little more than footnotes.

By now, we had already travelled through many countries and experienced all kinds of highs and lows. Zimbabwe reminded us why we started this journey in the first place.

Our Personal Highlights: Lake Kariba, the absolutely brutal Binga Road, Hwange National Park, Nyanga National Park.

Our Personal Downsides: Apart from the attempted theft and two particularly annoying police officers: none.

Our Personal Feelings so far: This is exactly how we hoped Africa would continue. Freedom, adventure, stunning landscapes, fantastic wild camping and just enough challenges to keep things interesting. Together with Botswana, Zimbabwe gave us the best time of our entire journey so far, but we’ll see, what comes next 😉

MALAWI 🇲🇼

Malawi was not really fair to us. By the time we entered the country, the rainy season had fully caught up with us. Floods, storms and weather-related disasters were affecting large parts of southern Africa. Hundreds of thousands of people had to be evacuated across Mozambique, Malawi, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana and South Africa. Many roads became difficult or impossible to use and several places we had hoped to visit, simply weren’t accessible anymore.

Lake Malawi was undoubtedly beautiful and became the main highlight of our stay. Apart from that, we honestly did not see enough of the country to form a complete opinion. The landscape never struck us as particularly ugly, but neither did it leave a lasting impression. Rain, mud and some of the worst roads of the entire journey dominated much of our experience.

What affected us most was the sheer number of people. Again on this trip, we felt, that we were just never ever truly alone. Whether on roads, in villages or trying to find a place to stop – there were always people around. Constant staring and the endless calls of “Mzungu” followed us almost everywhere. It was here, that we really felt East Africa beginning.

The people themselves were generally friendly and we never experienced problems with officials or police. On the contrary, officers were polite, relaxed and completely free of corruption in our experience. Communication was often difficult due to limited English, but friendliness was rarely an issue.

As the weeks passed, we increasingly moved towards campsites and lodges, instead of searching for remote wild camps. Partly because of the weather, partly because solitude had become almost impossible to find.

Our Personal Highlights: Lake Malawi

Our Personal Downsides: Rainy season, flooding, difficult roads, extremely high population density, very limited opportunities to be alone, surprisingly basic food supply.

Our Personal Feelings so far: Malawi arrived at exactly the wrong time for us. The weather limited, what we could see and the constant presence of people became mentally exhausting. We left with mixed feelings. Not because the country treated us badly, but because circumstances prevented us from experiencing much of what Malawi probably has to offer.

Rain still sucks!

TANZANIA 🇹🇿

Tanzania never really managed to convince us. Part of that was certainly bad timing. The rainy season was still in full swing, many roads were in poor condition and progress was painfully slow. Adding to that, Tanzania has an enormous amount of truck traffic. On some stretches, especially towards Dodoma and Dar es Salaam, it felt like we were driving through a never-ending convoy of heavy trucks.

Another thing that stood out, were Tanzania’s endless speed controls. Combined with the huge amount of truck traffic and long stretches of solid center lines, overtaking often became frustratingly difficult. For the first time in more than 40,000 kilometers across Africa, we were repeatedly stopped for alleged speeding offences.

Fortunately, we had developed a simple response:
“Could we please see the laser calibration certificate?“

That sentence became our best friend in Tanzania and every time we were eventually allowed to continue, without paying anything.

On top of all that: a thing that drove us absolutely insane, were the countless speed bumps and rumble strips. And we’re not talking about the normal kind (like in nearly all parts of Africa)

Many of them were so excessively high, that we constantly worried about damaging the underbody, suspension or even the axles. On some roads, where driving fast was physically impossible anyway, due to potholes and poor surface conditions, the sheer number and size of these obstacles felt completely absurd.

What made matters even worse was, that many weren’t marked at all. More than once we hit them unexpectedly and bottomed out. Every impact made us wonder, whether something underneath the vehicle had just bent, cracked or shifted.

Over time, it became mentally exhausting. Instead of enjoying the scenery, we often found ourselves scanning the road surface every second, searching for the next unmarked obstacle.

Ironically, these speed bumps often caused more stress, than the roads themselves and they played a significant role in turning both Tanzania and later Kenya into far less enjoyable experiences, than we had hoped for.

The people were generally friendly and officials were among the most relaxed we met. Police checkpoints were frequent, especially with speed controls, but every encounter remained friendly and often ended with laughter, instead of fines. Corruption was practically non-existent in our experience.

The coastline, which many travelers rave about, left us rather unimpressed. Away from a few highlights, much of the country felt like endless bushland with rolling hills. Not ugly, but rarely spectacular. At least not on the route we travelled.

What became increasingly exhausting, was the constant attention. Wherever we stopped, the familiar calls of “Mzungu” followed us. People stared, shouted after us and watched everything we did. Not hostile, just relentless. After months on the road, our tolerance for that had become rather limited. Mine was basically gone.

The biggest shock, however, was the pricing of the national parks. Tanzania undoubtedly has some of Africa’s most famous wildlife destinations, but the costs are staggering. Once vehicle fees, park fees and conservation fees are added up, a single national park visit can easily cost around 500 USD for two people and one vehicle per fucking day. Considering how many parks Tanzania offers, this quickly moves beyond, what many long-term overlanders consider reasonable.

In the end, Tanzania became more of a transit country for us. We pushed northwards faster than originally planned and found ourselves looking forward to Kenya.

Our Personal Highlights: Friendly police officers, some beautiful stretches along the route, surprisingly relaxed checkpoint experiences. Oh, I remember: The Dodoma Region is quite nice.

Our Personal Downsides: Endless truck traffic, speed bumps and rumble strips. rainy season, poor roads, extremely expensive national parks, constant attention from people, uninspiring coastline.

Our Personal Feelings so far: Tanzania simply wasn’t our country. Maybe different weather, different routes or a bigger budget for the parks would have changed our opinion. But during our visit, we mostly found ourselves wanting to move on and reach Kenya as quickly as possible.

Final Words: We hate the word “Mzungu“… we just hate it sooo much!

KENYA 🇰🇪

Kenya was a country we deliberately wanted to revisit.

Back in 2009, our journey through Kenya felt more like a survival trip, than a holiday and cost us an absolute fortune. Fenny never wanted to return. I did. Kenya deserved a second chance.

Unfortunately, it didn’t use it.

By the time we arrived, the rainy season was still at its peak. Roads turned into mud pits, tracks became rivers and our already struggling vehicle suffered further damage, when the rear axle shifted during one particularly ugly mud battle.

Wild camping was possible here and there, but never easy. There were people almost everywhere. Constant attention, endless “Mzungu” yellings and little moments, where you simply wanted to be left alone.

What struck us most, was the relentless focus on money. Kenya was another, but the hardest country on this journey where we constantly felt like walking ATMs. Whether it was campsites, restaurants, mechanics, batteries-stores or simple purchases, prices often seemed to depend entirely on the color of your skin. We learned very quickly to agree on every detail and every price upfront.

Then came the bureaucratic mess.
Despite carrying a valid Carnet de Passages, Customs issued us a TIP instead of processing the FVP (Foreign Vehicle Permit) correctly. From that moment on, nobody seemed to know what to do. No office could tell us how to extend it. Different officials gave different answers. Phone calls led nowhere.

At one point, we were told to pay around 200 USD for somebody to ride a motorcycle somewhere and sort out the paperwork. Even locals laughed and told us, this made absolutely no sense.

The story nearly ended at the border, where officials wanted to fine us, because of the unresolved FVP issue. Fortunately, we had documented everything and could prove, that the mistake had not been ours. After lengthy discussions, we were finally allowed to leave.
It perfectly summed up our experience: confusion, contradictions and nobody taking responsibility.

The shipping process pushed us even further in the wrong direction. Vague answers, vague prices, changing information and an attitude of “don’t be difficult” whenever questions became too specific.

“Hakuna Matata“

We heard countless stories from other travelers about corruption, officials and endless bureaucracy. Fortunately, we avoided most of that ourselves, but by then our decision had already been made.

We left Kenya without doing any real sightseeing.
For the first time in a very long while, we simply didn’t feel like exploring anymore.

Our Personal Highlights in the past: Tsavo East National Park, Tsavo West National Park, Lake Nakuru, Lake Naivasha, Hell’s Gate National Park, Mount Kenya, Nanyuki Equator Point, Amboseli National Park (when prices were still reasonable).

Our Personal Downsides: Endless rain, overwhelming truck traffic, again this million of speed bumps and rumble strips, inflated tourist pricing, constant Mzungu shoutings, bureaucratic chaos, shipping frustrations, difficult business dealings and the general feeling of being viewed primarily as a source of money. Tumbu flies: living larvae in our bodies for weeks. How disgusting this was.

Our Personal Feelings so far: Sometimes a country deserves a second chance. Sometimes it confirms your first impression. For us, Kenya was the latter. By the end, there was only one thought left: the ship is full. Time to leave asap!

ZAMBIA 🇿🇲 – Our last country for now

Zambia wasn’t really part of the plan anymore.

By the time we entered, the world around us seemed to be accelerating. Conflict in the Middle East had escalated, fuel prices were rising rapidly and reports about Ebola outbreaks in Uganda and the DRC were spreading. For us, the decision became obvious: skip Uganda and Rwanda and head straight back south.

Our last realistic chance to ship Rossi, was waiting there. Otherwise, it would have meant thousands of kilometers all the way back up the West Coast – something we definitely didn’t want to do.

So Zambia became less of a destination and more of a transit country. That is a bit unfair, because we simply didn’t spend enough time here to judge the country properly.

What we saw, were generally friendly people, little hassle and a country, that felt calmer than many others around it. But we were travelling with tunnel vision by then. The goal was no longer exploration. The goal was getting south as quickly as possible.

The first impression wasn’t exactly encouraging. The border crossing from Tanzania turned into one of the most chaotic and confusing border procedures, we had encountered in years. Paperwork, counters, waiting and plenty of opportunities to wonder, what exactly was going on.

Once inside the country, progress remained slow. Large sections of the roughly 1,500 kilometers we travelled ranged from poor to absolutely terrible road conditions. Only towards the south-west did things improve significantly.

Apart from that, much of what we saw, consisted of endless bushland, interrupted by towns and a handful of famous national parks. Unfortunately, we neither had the time nor the mindset to explore them properly.

Looking back, Zambia is probably one of the countries we understand the least. And for that reason, we don’t want to do it an injustice.

Our Personal Highlights:
The friendly atmosphere, surprisingly uncomplicated encounters with officials, excellent wild camping and the smooth transition into Botswana after a rather chaotic entry.

Our Personal Downsides:
One of the most chaotic border crossings of the entire journey, long stretches of very poor roads and the fact that circumstances left us little opportunity to properly experience the country.

Our Personal Feelings so far:
Zambia may well deserve more time than we gave it. Unfortunately, timing is everything. We arrived focused on world events, shipping logistics and changing travel plans. Sometimes a country simply appears at the wrong moment in a journey.

At least the weather was finally improving. The rainy season was almost over and for the first time in quite a while, we could look forward to blue skies again.

Final Words – “The Bottle We never opened”

I (Totti) have been sitting with this final post for three days now, reading it over and over again🤯.
And while most of the text above was indeed written by AI under my clear instructions and based on our diaries, I simply couldn’t make it work, when it came to my “final words”.
So here we go:

How do I put into words two years, that were simultaneously so beautiful and so exhausting? How do I describe a continent, that gave us so much, yet also pushed us to our limits – without sounding too negative or overly romantic?

We’ve been traveling for nearly 20 years, visited 94 countries and driven more than 475.000 km behind our own steering wheels. We’ve seen so much, experienced so much and taken countless memories with us… but Africa… Africa is different.

Since 2006 we’ve been to Africa seven times. Two of those years we lived on the continent.

We’ve traveled through 25 countries – each one incredibly beautiful in its own way, yet somehow sharing the same intense spirit. Everywhere you go you find warm, friendly people, vibrant colors, soulful vibes and always pure nature.

At the same time, there’s this constant, often absurd chaos, that cuts into our nerves with a chainsaw, meter by meter, hour by hour. A level of chaos, that can be so relentless, it slowly wears you down, kilometer after kilometer.

As I reread this enormous report again and again and reflect on, what truly matters to us as overlanders, some questions keep coming back:
Where were all those perfect wild camps, that deep sense of freedom, we usually chase?
Where were the endless golden-hour photography sessions and the heartwarming encounters we love so much?

They existed – of course they did – but they were far fewer and farther between, than the challenges, that wore us down so often. The harmony between the “good” and the “difficult” was rarely balanced.

We often caught ourselves trying to make lemon juice out of lemons instead of genuinely enjoying the day.

We moved too fast. Not because we wanted to, but because of all these circumstances, that constantly had us under pressure. By the end – even when things calmed down in Angola – we were already exhausted – mentally and emotionally drained.

And there I go again – sounding negative. That’s not what I want!

What we missed most was: balance.

The kind of balance, where you can spend hours overlooking a waterhole, watching animals compete for dominance. Where you wait for sunset, because you know the light will be perfect for photography. Instead, there was often pressure. The next payment period in the National Park was approaching. Another campsite had to be found – in hope of finding peace and silence.

I missed photography enormously… these meditative moments, where I am with me… alone, controlling my breath for the next beautiful animal encounter to capture.

And yet, just when things became too much, I kept hoping, Africa would give something back. Another unforgettable encounter or another act of kindness… another landscape – so spectacular, it justified every kilometer.

I don’t know whether it’s our travel style, our expectations or whether we’ve simply seen so much of the world, that we’re harder to impress than we once were.

We made one clear mistake in Africa: we never allowed ourselves real breaks.

For two years we were constantly on the road, in the bush or surrounded by people. No real pause or just a tiny bit of distance. In hindsight, we should have taken a proper break after six months or so – flown somewhere else, reset and returned with fresh energy.

Instead, our fighting spirit took over. We didn’t want to give up. We didn’t want Africa to “beat” us.
The truth is that we love Africa deeply. Yet Africa often made life difficult for us. Eventually, we had to accept, that Africa simply isn’t designed for our style of travel.
Africa is incredibly demanding.

It taught us, that this continent asks for a different pace and approach, than what we were used to, from the rest of the world.

As tourists – flying in, renting a car, staying in lodges and booking safaris – Africa is and will be magical and unforgettable.
As long-term overlanders with our own vehicle, it was often much harder than we had anticipated.

Africa was also considerably more expensive than we had anticipated. That was something, we obviously had completely underestimated. Eventually, all those influences accumulate, until they become overwhelming, yet escaping them isn’t easy. We didn’t have the luxury of simply booking flights and taking breaks, whenever we wanted. And we never wanted to leave our vehicle behind.

And then there was this one moment we had been waiting for – the one that never came.

For six years of full-time travel, a 20-year-old bottle of our favourite wine has travelled with us: a “Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Auslese”.

This bottle had accompanied us through more than fifty countries. Across deserts, across the most rugged terrain, over mountains and across countless borders – sometimes even quietly smuggled. It was our silent promise to ourselves.
It wasn’t about the value of the wine, but it was meant to be opened on that perfect day – at an epic wild camp, during a magical sunset, in that rare feeling of “We’ve made it.” A moment of pure freedom and fulfilment.

After two years in Africa… it was still unopened.

Not even in South Africa – the country we had always imagined as the perfect place for this very moment. Because South Africa was the first country, Fenny and I ever travelled together – many years ago, when we were young and full of dreams.

That the bottle remained sealed at the end of this long African journey, hurt more than we expected. It became a quiet symbol of what we missed most here: not comfort, luxury or even the big adventures – but the deep, peaceful freedom to simply stop and say:
“Here. Now. This is our moment – This is perfect.”

Africa was perfect in its own way, but it wasn’t perfect for us. As an overlanding destination, it simply wasn’t the right fit for us.

But hey… that’s perfectly ok… it will be perfect for others, while we’re leaving with a heavy heart, but a grateful one🙏.

We will be back. Absolutely. Just differently.

Cheers
Totti (TRAVELcandies-On-Tour)

FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions

Is Africa really an overlanding paradise?

Starlink Worldwide

TiKay — Fri, 15 May 2026 07:07:15 +0000

Starlink Worldwide

In This Guide:

Why Do We Use Starlink?
How Did We Get Starlink?
The Good, The Bad, The Ugly
Hardware & Software
The Registration Process
Power Consumption
The Performance Of Starlink Mini
Starlink Roam Plans
Does Starlink Work In Every Country?
2 Months On The Road – And Then?
Terms & Conditions
The Starlink Support
Accounts & Subscriptions
Switching To A New Starlink Account
Which Plan Is The Right One For Me?
Our Conclusion On Starlink
Recent Updates
FAQ

Starlink is a satellite internet system by SpaceX , that provides high-speed internet almost anywhere with a clear view of the sky.

Why do we use Starlink?

Since we are traveling through many different countries, we constantly experienced the same problem: even with local SIM cards and supposedly full mobile signal, internet often barely worked or download speeds were painfully slow. Getting a SIM card can also mean bureaucracy, passport registration, unreliable apps, difficult top-ups or expensive data packages with very limited speeds. After a while this becomes exhausting.

Starlink is definitely not cheap, especially regarding hardware and power consumption, but for us it removed almost all the hassle. One system, one account and reliable internet in places where mobile networks often become unusable.

But the biggest advantage is mobility. Internet almost everywhere, even in very remote areas. This is not only convenient, it is also a huge security factor in emergency situations. Since using Starlink, we no longer choose our camps or overnight spots based on mobile reception. We simply go where we actually want to go. No matter how remote the place is, we are almost always online.

How Did We Get Starlink?

Somewhere in Botswana we more or less decided spontaneously that we wanted Starlink. Without spending days researching or comparing setups, we simply bought the Starlink Mini in Maun. At that time Botswana itself did not offer local Starlink service plans, so after buying the dish we opened the Starlink coverage map, checked different countries in Africa and looked for a place where the Roam 50GB plan was available at a reasonable price.

In the end we registered the system under our own names, but with an address in Eswatini using a real campsite address we found online. The activation process was surprisingly simple and Starlink started working almost immediately after setup. From that moment on we had stable internet nearly everywhere we traveled.

Being Online In Seconds – 300 MBit – BOOM – Fantastic!

The Good, The Bad, The Ugly

One surprisingly good thing is that you do not even need a local SIM card to register Starlink. The system can create its own direct satellite connection during setup, which makes activation possible even in places with poor or completely missing mobile coverage.

The hardware itself is much smaller than many people expect. It feels robust, well-built and designed for travel. The cable is long enough to place the dish away from the vehicle if trees, cliffs or other obstacles block the sky. Setup usually takes only a few minutes: place the dish, connect power and wait.

Speeds (up to 300 MBit/sec) are often dramatically better than local mobile networks, especially in remote regions. Uploads, video calls, cloud backups, navigation updates and even large file transfers suddenly become realistic again. Weather resistance is also better than expected. Heavy rain can reduce performance, but in our experience the connection usually remains usable – even if it’s cloudy.

The bad part starts with the constantly changing rules and restrictions. Starlink’s terms and conditions are often surprisingly unclear and sometimes borderline confusing. Depending on the country, roaming, registration and usage limitations may suddenly change without much transparency. Information online is frequently outdated within months.

In the beginning, Support is also not exactly great. In many cases you first end up talking to the rather questionable Grok AI support system before reaching an actual human. This does not necessarily make troubleshooting easier, especially if you are somewhere remote and simply need clear answers quickly.

And then there is the ugly part: power consumption. Starlink is absolutely usable in an overlanding setup, but it is far from a low-power device. People with smaller solar systems, limited battery capacity or weak inverter setups should not underestimate this aspect. Depending on the hardware version and usage pattern, power draw can become a real issue during bad weather or longer stationary stays.

Still, once you get used to having reliable internet almost everywhere, normal mobile networks suddenly feel extremely frustrating again 🤷‍♀️😂

How to Get Started? – Hardware & Software

We mounted our Mini Dish directly underneath our large roof hatch. The hatch itself can be adjusted in different directions with small gas struts, which allows us to angle the dish without constantly removing it from the vehicle. In roughly 90% of all situations the Starlink simply stays mounted in its position while we travel and camp.

To make this work, I built a custom mounting system from simple aluminum rails which securely holds the dish in place. Vibrations, rough roads and corrugated tracks have not caused any problems so far. The setup turned out to be far more robust than expected.

Only when camping under trees or with heavy obstruction, we remove the dish and place it outside, usually flat on top of a small tripod stool. We do not obsess over perfect alignment, because in real-world usage we generally still achieve very high speeds without carefully adjusting the angle every single time.
For power supply we initially used the included 220V cable connected to our 800W pure sine inverter. As soon as the system is plugged in, a small blue light underneath the dish turns on. The dish itself also makes a few noises during startup, but no worries, that is completely normal.

Once the light starts blinking instead of just glowing steadily, the Starlink dish begins searching for and connecting to the satellites. Depending on the location and sky visibility this usually only takes a few seconds or minutes.

To set up the system, you need either the Starlink mobile app or the desktop app. Both are quite similar, although the mobile app currently offers more functions and generally feels more practical during the initial setup process.

The Registration Process

Once the Starlink Mini is up and running and a satellite connection is established, you simply connect to the new Starlink Wi-Fi network, which can later be renamed and configured however you like.

The app then guides you through the activation process. You create a Starlink account, select a service plan and enter a registration address. This is where things can become slightly confusing for international travelers because availability, pricing and roaming options differ heavily between countries.

What we basically did was search for a country that offered the plan we wanted. At the moment the most relevant options for overlanders and long-term travelers are usually the Roam 100GB and Roam Unlimited plans. Finding a suitable tariff can take some time because prices vary massively between continents and countries. The USA for example is relatively expensive compared to many European countries, while Mongolia or some Central Asian “Stan” countries were surprisingly cheap at the time we checked.

However, this is also where the first potential trap appears. Even though Starlink registration often works globally, it is still smart to choose a registration country that makes practical sense for your actual travel route. Ideally the country should be on the same continent and preferably somewhere ahead of you during your planned journey.

The reason is simple: if Starlink ever decides to enforce regional rules more strictly and asks you to return to your registration country for whatever reason, life becomes much easier if that country is nearby.

For example, if you are traveling through South America and start in Patagonia, registering the system somewhere else in South America is relatively low risk, because border crossings are usually manageable. In Africa however, it would be rather impractical, if your device were registered in Europe, while you are currently somewhere in Ghana or Congo (nevertheless it is working w/o problems)

In most cases everything works perfectly fine and people never experience problems. Still, it is worth thinking ahead a little.
If you already know your approximate route, you could theoretically start your Africa trip in Morocco, but register the device somewhere farther south like Nigeria, if you know you will pass through there later anyway. Worst case, you may eventually need to physically enter that country at some point, which is still a lot easier than suddenly needing an intercontinental flight just because of a registration issue.

You do not need to use your real home address, but the address you enter, should actually exist!

Power Consumption – And How To Connect

The simplest solution is to use the included cable together with an inverter. The cable itself is 15 meters long, which allows you to place the dish farther away from the vehicle when camping under trees or with partially obstructed sky view.

However, powering the Starlink through 220V AC is relatively inefficient. In our case the system consumed roughly 5A per hour on the 12V side of the vehicle system, even though the dish itself only requires around 20W on average, which equals roughly 1.7A at 12V. The losses caused by converting 12V DC into 220V AC, combined with the inverter’s own power consumption, significantly increase the total energy usage.

So why not simply power the Starlink directly from 12V?
Well, this is where things become slightly tricky.

The Starlink Mini itself can technically operate with voltages between 12V and 40V, which sounds promising at first. Typical starter or leisure batteries usually provide somewhere between 12.5V and 14.8V depending on battery chemistry such as lead-acid, AGM, gel, LiFePO4 or LiFeYPO4.

In theory this should work perfectly fine. In reality however the Starlink dish reacts surprisingly sensitively to voltage fluctuations.

Our first attempts involved DIY cigarette lighter solutions. The dish would power on, then off again, randomly restart or suddenly shut down completely, despite measuring around 13.5V consistently.

After that we tried using a dedicated DC voltage converter which stabilized the output to a constant 12V. Again, this should theoretically have been enough for the Starlink Mini, but surprisingly it still did not work reliably.

After many failed experiments we finally decided to buy dedicated USB-C cables in both 3-meter and 10-meter lengths which allowed us to connect the dish directly to a portable power station, in our case a Bluetti EB70. (Attention: NOT EVERY advertised cable works, be careful and only buy good brands!)

The important detail here is, that the cable absolutely must support the PD3.0 / 100W standard.
(advertised 20V/5A cables might NOT work, as we experienced, esspecially when they are longer!)

Longer cables (> 3m) = more voltage fluctuation = weak power flow!
The thicker the cable, the longer it can be!

Since switching to this setup the Starlink Mini has been running completely stable while consuming only around 17W on average.
But hey: even at only 17–24W, the dish still consumes roughly 1.5–2A per hour continuously and that over many hours. That may not sound like much at first, but over an entire day (24 Amps in just 12 hours) and night, this quickly adds up to a noticeable amount of battery capacity – especially during bad weather or with limited solar input.

The Performance Of Starlink Mini

We almost never actively align the dish and still usually get between 100 and 190 Mbit/s, even under cloudy skies. Under optimal conditions with clear sky visibility and a naturally good vehicle orientation, we have seen speeds of up to 300 Mbit/s, which is honestly extremely fast for a mobile setup in remote areas.

In real-world usage, even 50 Mbit/s is already more than enough for basically everything including remote work, cloud uploads, streaming, navigation updates or large downloads.

Interestingly, heavy cloud coverage does not necessarily reduce the raw speed dramatically. The bigger issue is signal stability. Under dense clouds or partially obstructed skies the dish can occasionally lose satellite connection for a few seconds before reconnecting automatically. In practice this usually means short interruptions rather than permanently slow internet.

We also tested the system in not so dense forest conditions and I walked roughly 500 meters away from the vehicle. Even there we still achieved somewhere between 15 and 50 Mbit/s, which honestly surprised us quite a lot considering the amount of obstruction.

Overall we are genuinely impressed by the performance of the Starlink Mini. For overlanding and long-term travel it feels less like a compromise and more like having proper home internet almost everywhere.

But – as always – there is still one noticeable drawback: download speeds are excellent, but upload speeds are comparatively slow.

This is usually not a problem for normal browsing, streaming, navigation or downloading large files. But once you start uploading big amounts of data such as YouTube videos, RAW photos, cloud backups or large work projects, the limitation becomes very noticeable.

Downloads often feel almost like proper home fiber internet, while uploads can fluctuate heavily and sometimes require patience, especially in remote areas or under less ideal sky conditions. Video calls generally work fine, but professional content creators or people constantly syncing huge amounts of data should keep this limitation in mind.

The reason for this is relatively simple: satellite internet systems are generally optimized far more for download traffic than upload traffic because most users consume much more data than they send. Starlink shares available satellite bandwidth dynamically between many users and upload capacity is technically more limited.

This is completely normal for satellite-based systems and there is usually not much you can do to dramatically increase upload speeds themselves.

What does help however is optimizing the way data gets uploaded. Uploading several smaller FTP files simultaneously instead of one huge file can improve overall throughput. Resumable uploads are also highly recommended because short interruptions may otherwise force complete restarts. Compressing files before upload, scheduling large transfers during off-peak hours and avoiding cloud sync services running in the background at the same time can also noticeably improve real-world performance.

Starlink Mini is a Data monster

One thing still feels slightly strange though: the Starlink Mini seems to be a real data monster.

With a normal 50GB mobile SIM card we could often survive for nearly an entire month. With Starlink however the same amount of data somehow disappears in absolutely no time. We honestly cannot fully explain why. Maybe devices simply start using more bandwidth automatically once a fast and stable connection is available, maybe cloud services become more active, or maybe one simply stops paying attention because the internet finally feels unrestricted.

Whatever the reason is, data usage on Starlink feels dramatically higher compared to traditional mobile internet. Thankfully the newer Roam 100GB plan now exists, which makes things far more practical for long-term travelers – but more about that later.

Starlink Roam Plans – For The Traveler

Originally, Starlink mainly offered two realistically interesting roaming options for travelers and overlanders besides several other extremely expensive enterprise-style plans: Roam 50GB and Roam Unlimited.

The Roam 50GB plan was relatively affordable and worked well for light to moderate usage such as navigation, messaging, browsing, remote work and occasional streaming. For many travelers it became the entry point into the Starlink ecosystem because the monthly cost was still manageable compared to some absurd mobile data prices in remote regions.

The downside however was that 50GB disappeared surprisingly fast in real-world Starlink usage. Once you start using stable high-speed internet without constantly worrying about mobile coverage, data consumption increases almost automatically. System updates, cloud synchronization, streaming quality and background services suddenly become far more active.

On the other side there was Roam Unlimited. Technically this solved the data problem completely, but depending on the registration country, the pricing was often extremely high and not always realistic for long-term budget-conscious travelers.

This created a rather awkward gap between “not enough data” and “very expensive unlimited data.” Fortunately Starlink later introduced the Roam 100GB plan and as of May 2026 the 300GB plan, which for many overlanders currently feels like the best compromises between price and usability.

We personally use the Roam Unlimited plan because we regularly have to upload multiple terabytes of data every few months. For heavy content creation, large cloud backups or professional media work, limited plans simply stop being realistic very quickly.

But even here there are ways to reduce costs a bit. Although we normally pay around 89€ per month, we occasionally search for offers in other countries where Starlink runs temporary promotions. Sometimes the Unlimited plan is available for around 60–70€ for several months, depending on the country and current campaigns.

Referral programs can also help. Inviting new users occasionally rewards you with a free month of service. And interestingly enough, Starlink support sometimes even grants free service credits when users provide genuinely useful feedback or suggestions for improving the system. All of this has already happened to us personally.

Does Starlink Work In Every Country?

Yes, technically Starlink works in almost every single country as long as satellite coverage exists and the dish has a reasonably clear view of the sky. The satellites themselves obviously do not care about borders.

The main exception is geofencing or geoblocking. In some countries where Starlink has no official license, the service may be actively restricted either by local authorities or directly by Starlink itself. In such cases the dish may not be able to establish a satellite connection at all, even though satellites are physically overhead.

The real challenge is therefore usually not the technical functionality itself, but regulations, licensing and Starlink’s own regional restrictions. Some countries officially support Starlink, some unofficially tolerate it and others restrict or completely prohibit its operation. In certain regions the hardware may work perfectly fine for months until rules suddenly change or enforcement becomes stricter.

We ourselves successfully used Starlink in technically unsupported countries such as South Africa and Tanzania for quite some time without any issues, until Starlink eventually cut off the signal. But we will discuss this topic in more detail later on.

In practice many travelers still use Starlink across borders without major problems, especially with roaming plans. Nevertheless it is important to understand that “technically possible” and “officially supported” are not always the same thing.

That said, Starlink is generally surprisingly tolerant and forgiving compared to what the official wording in their policies might suggest.

2 Months on the road – and then?

Traveling to another country

You can use your Roam plan in most available countries for up to 60 days per trip.
Check which countries are available on our availability map.

Staying Longer Than Two Months

If you plan to remain in another country for more than two months:

You may need to update your registered address.
You may be asked to transfer your account to that country.
If you do not transfer, your service may be restricted.
If restricted, you will only be able to access your Starlink account.

(source: Starlink Terms and Conditions)

This is, what Starlink officially says, but did you notice all the “mays”?

Here theory turns into reality. “May” means something can happen, but it does not necessarily have to happen and very often it simply does not.

Even we repeatedly received generic warning messages telling us to leave the country and return to the original registration country. However, a quick call with the support usually solved the issue.
Once we explained that we are long-term travelers and simply cannot fly back home every time, we cross a border, Starlink re-enabled the service again.
So far the Starlink support has generally been surprisingly understanding. We were usually warned that the system might become restricted again in the future, but nevertheless they restored the connection every single time.

In the unlikely event that Starlink actually insists that you return to your original registration country, simply cancel the subscription. Make sure to note down all important device and account information beforehand, delete the account and create a new one afterward.

Starlink generally will be completely fine with this approach – but more about that later.

Terms & Conditions, Restrictions, Regulations, Do’s and Don’ts and “Mays”

One thing quickly becomes obvious when using Starlink internationally for long-term travel: the rules constantly change. Terms and conditions get updated all the time – sometimes monthly, sometimes weekly and occasionally it even feels like daily.

The problem is not only the frequency of these changes, but also the wording itself. The documents are already confusing and often surprisingly open to interpretation. One paragraph says something “may” happen, another warns that certain behavior “could” lead to restrictions, followed by exceptions, special cases, regional limitations and vague “however” statements.

Very little feels truly black and white.

In reality this creates situations that often make very little sense from the user perspective. Sometimes Starlink gets restricted even though you have not yet spent two months outside your registration country. Sometimes the reason is completely unclear. Sometimes the system suddenly starts working again without any warning or explanation.

Then you try to follow all the rules properly by changing countries every two months, only for the system to get restricted again anyway. Other users ignore the rules almost completely and continue working for months without any issues at all.

This is exactly why many travelers slowly stop treating the Starlink documentation as strict law and instead see it more as a constantly shifting framework that may or may not be enforced depending on country, timing, support staff or pure luck.

At the end of the day, do yourself a favor: do not waste endless hours trying to fully understand every single paragraph of the Terms & Conditions. In many cases even experienced users interpret them differently anyway.

If something stops working or feels unclear, simply contact support immediately. In practice this is often faster, less frustrating and far more useful than trying to decode another wall of “may”, “could”, “however” and “subject to change without notice”.

You will notice that in many cases the problem gets solved much faster than expected. So yes – surprisingly enough – kudos to Starlink support. cough😉

The Starlink Support – is it any good?

It depends.

The first contact is usually the AI support system and honestly: Grok often hallucinates, provides half-true or outright incorrect information and regularly gets trapped in contradictions. Sometimes it simply repeats generic policy text that does not really apply to your actual situation.

The best strategy is usually to persistently push the AI toward creating a real support ticket so you can speak to an actual human. Do not let yourself get brushed off too quickly. Eventually the system usually creates the ticket and a human supporter gets in touch.

And this is where things often become much better.

By now Starlink support seems very aware that there are quite a few long-term travelers, overlanders and digital nomads using the system internationally, who cannot simply fly back to their home country every time a restriction appears.

In some situations, especially if the system becomes permanently blocked and support cannot directly re-enable it anymore, they may suggest simply deleting the account and creating a new one. The account name can stay identical, but the email address must be different. Surprisingly, Starlink seems completely fine with this workaround.

You are a paying customer, generating monthly revenue for Starlink

In general, being friendly and explaining your situation calmly usually helps a lot. We even experienced cases where Starlink was technically being used inside unsupported countries and support still ended up being rather understanding about it.

Unofficially it sometimes almost feels like the advice is: do not abuse the system, stay relatively low-profile and do not use unsupported regions excessively or commercially. If you behave reasonably, support often seems willing to give travelers another chance and reactivate the service.

Of course none of this is officially guaranteed and policies can change at any time. But in real-world travel situations the human support team often turns out to be far more pragmatic than the Terms & Conditions initially suggest.

At the end of the day, you are still paying customers, generating monthly revenue for Starlink. That does not mean every restriction magically disappears, but it often feels like the company prefers finding pragmatic solutions, instead of permanently losing long-term users over purely bureaucratic problems.

Accounts & Subscriptions – When to cancel and when to pause?

If you only do not need Starlink for a couple of days or weeks, pausing the subscription might usually be the smarter option. The same applies when entering a country, where Starlink is currently unsupported or temporarily problematic. In many cases it simply makes more sense, to keep the account alive and wait things out instead of rebuilding everything from scratch later.

The nice thing is, that pausing currently only costs around 5 USD per month and still provides unlimited internet access, although at heavily reduced speeds. According to Starlink and various user reports, speeds are supposed to be somewhere around 500 kbit/s. Obviously this is far from fast, but still perfectly usable for messaging, emails, lightweight browsing or emergency communication. But hey… if it works? I do not know – never tried it.

Pausing can also be useful if a specific roaming plan suddenly becomes unavailable for your account or region. Starlink changes tariffs, country availability and roaming rules surprisingly often, so sometimes holding onto an existing setup is simply the safer strategy.

Canceling on the other hand, often becomes relevant once real account problems start appearing. For example when the account gets regionally blocked, permanently restricted or stuck in some strange registration limbo that support cannot easily resolve anymore. In such cases deleting the account and creating a completely new one can occasionally be the fastest and cleanest solution.

The funny thing is: even after using Starlink for a long time, I still cannot say with absolute certainty, which option is always the correct one. Welcome to the wonderful world of Starlink logic.

Let me know if you have more detailed information or real-world experience regarding this feature.

Switching to a new Starlink Account – How to and what to not forget

When shit hits the fan and absolutely nothing works anymore, your system gets permanently blocked and Starlink insists that you return to your home country, do not panic immediately. According to recommendations we personally received from human Starlink support, the smartest moment to handle the process is shortly before the next billing cycle begins (1 week prior to the cycle end).

Before doing anything else, make absolutely sure to note down your Starlink ID, Kit ID and serial number (see picture above). You can find all of these at the very bottom of your subscription/account page. Without this information the entire transfer process can become unnecessarily complicated later on.

After that you need to cancel the subscription and initiate a hardware transfer. However, this is where many people suddenly run into confusion because the “Transfer” button may remain greyed out or completely inactive.

The reason is Starlink’s internal transfer policy.

According to Starlink, the service must first be canceled before it can be transferred, and this is only possible at least 120 days after purchasing the kit or 90 days after activation.

Until this requirement is fulfilled, the transfer option simply remains unavailable or greyed out.

This means you cannot endlessly create fresh accounts every couple of weeks and constantly move the hardware around between profiles. Starlink intentionally limits this behavior.

Once the transfer finally becomes available, you can release the hardware from the old account and register it again under a completely new account. The name itself can remain identical, but the email address must be different. This part is important.

In practice the reactivation process is often surprisingly straightforward. Create the new account, select the desired country and roaming plan, enter the hardware details and activate the system again. In many cases the dish comes back online within minutes (we did that several times)

Still, this process is obviously not something you want to repeat regularly. It is more of an emergency reset button for situations where roaming restrictions, regional locks or account problems become impossible to solve otherwise.

Even without a SIM card, Starlink provides a temporary internet connection that allows you to set up the system and activate a subscription.

Which plan is the right one for me?

Let us mainly talk about the standard Roam plans here, because realistically most of the other plans are either far too expensive, too specialized or simply not relevant for normal overlanders, vanlifers and long-term travelers. For most people the real choice comes down to Roam 50GB/100GB/300GB or Roam Unlimited (availability depends on country).

As already mentioned earlier, Starlink somehow behaves like a real data monster. We personally use significantly more data with Starlink than we ever did with normal mobile SIM cards. At first we assumed 50GB would probably be enough, but after testing our real-world usage it quickly became obvious that it was nowhere near sufficient for us.

A completely normal day with Starlink for us looks something like this: regular browsing, checking emails, quickly looking at YouTube to see what is new, maybe watching a video, writing Polarsteps and Facebook posts including photos, editing pictures, retrieving GPS and satellite map information online, handling administrative and logistical tasks and navigating during driving with satellite view permanently enabled. In the evening we usually stream a movie and finish the day with a little bit of doomscrolling.

Our average monthly usage ended up being around 250GB. Interestingly, with normal SIM cards we previously managed with roughly 150GB for almost the same lifestyle. Something about Starlink simply encourages heavier data usage once fast and stable internet becomes constantly available.

For us the 50GB plan was completely unrealistic.

On top of that, I also make money with stock footage and every few months I upload large amounts of material to my server in Germany. These uploads can easily grow into several terabytes, making Roam Unlimited absolutely essential in our case.

We talked to other travelers who genuinely use very little internet and still managed fine with 50GB plan, but most people we met eventually switched either to the 100GB plan or directly to Unlimited.

For us personally Unlimited is definitely worth the additional cost. The extra freedom, reduced stress and ability to simply use the internet without constantly monitoring every gigabyte is a massive improvement during long-term travel.

Our Conclusion on Starlink

For us, Starlink has been an absolute game changer.

Again and again we caught ourselves choosing our campsites based on mobile phone towers. Truly remote areas were usually only visited when there were people nearby or when we spotted a transmission tower somewhere in the distance. More than once I even launched the drone with a smartphone attached to it just to catch a weak signal somewhere above the trees.

Today all of this is gone. We no longer have to deal with buying overpriced SIM cards, signing contracts, registering passports or struggling with ridiculous data limits and unstable connections.

We simply drive where we actually want to go. Deeper into the wilderness, further away from civilization and into places we would previously have avoided because we worried about communication and emergency access.

And honestly, we noticed how much this changed us mentally as well. We became calmer and more relaxed.

Sure, there are travelers who are perfectly happy without internet. WE ARE NOT.

We want to be online anytime and anywhere

– especially because we are often traveling completely alone.

The internet is our connection to the world, to friends, familiar faces and our families.
And Starlink opens that gate almost everywhere.

Last update: 16.05.2026

RECENT UPDATES

May 2026: New Roam 300GB Plan & Price Changes

Starlink introduced the new Roam 300GB plan in the United States. Current US pricing is roughly:

Roam 100GB → 55 USD
Roam 300GB → 80 USD
Roam Unlimited → 175 USD

At the same time pricing also changed in other regions. In Germany for example, Roam Unlimited increased to around 95€ per month.

However, the new 300GB plan is currently still unavailable in Germany and several other countries. As usual with Starlink, pricing structures, roaming plans and availability differ heavily depending on the registration country and may change at any time.

last updated: 21.05.2026

FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions

Did Starlink ever cut off your signal?

How to Deal With Corruption as an Overland Traveler

TiKay — Sun, 15 Feb 2026 12:13:44 +0000

SUMMARY: Dealing With Corruption

Corruption is common in everyday travel situations
You will not change the system on the road
Stay calm, polite and non-confrontational
Know your documents and your legal position
Avoid escalation – time and patience are leverage
Decide pragmatically when to stand firm and when to move on
Personal safety always comes first

From Confrontation to Pragmatism

On this planet there are roughly 30 different personality types – better described as models.
Every human being is a unique mix of genetics, biography and context. No two are identical.
As a result, people act according to their character traits: often similar, rarely identical, usually intuitive – and when it comes to dealing with corruption: very often wrong.

Let’s start with us — Fenny and me.

Fenny is calm, relaxed and composed. She rarely gets genuinely angry, instinctively tries to de-escalate and saves her energy for what actually matters. She connects with people on an emotional level.

I – Totti – am very different. I’m not particularly easy to deal with, when things are pushed too far. In my professional past, the rule was simple: survive.
Everyone was trying to take advantage of you. Over the last forty years I built a thick skin, was often undiplomatic and frequently arrogant – because frankly – arrogance can get you surprisingly far and brought me, where I am now.

I can argue well, but I can also over-argue, derail discussions or destroy them entirely.
I rarely avoided confrontation, usually with my finger pointed firmly in the air.
My legal insurance was busy – courtrooms were familiar territory. And I won. Always.
Head-through-the-wall mentality :

“I’m right and you can fuck off”

Pretty much the worst set of character traits, when it comes to dealing with corruption!

But I learned. Age does that – if you let it.

Today it’s about energy and efficiency. I’m far less willing to engage in confrontation and instead look for pragmatic and – above all – fast solutions. Still, common sense sometimes trips me up and I fall back into old habits.

When it comes to corrupt situations, this is where I learned the most.
I developed my own way of communicating – a specific rhetoric that now works well in the vast majority of cases.
That said: no matter how calm, polite or friendly I am – push it too far and Pandora’s Box opens quickly.

Not everyone is good at talking. Not everyone has confident body language. Some appear introverted, reserved, shy or insecure. These people become – and there is no polite way to put this – easy targets for those trying to exploit them.

This guide shows how you never, ever need to pay money for something that does not exist, is not legitimate and therefore simply illegal. One thing is crucial to understand: not only the corrupt official commits a crime –

You Are Commiting Crime As Well!

Understanding Borders, Checkpoints and Corruption

We’ve lost count of how many borders we’ve crossed over the last thirty years, how many checkpoints we’ve passed and how many police officers we’ve encountered – and, quite often, pushed back against. In Nigeria alone we dealt with 202 checkpoints and several hundred officers. Most of them were ultra-cool, super friendly, but also: corrupt- nearly every-single-one!

Every border crossing and every officer comes with their own challenges and requires a different approach.

To handle this properly, you need to understand three things:
a) what corruption actually is,
b) where it comes from and
c) how officers think and operate.

Once you understand that, you build your strategies around it.

Three Levels of Corruption

Corruption comes in different forms and levels. Not every encounter is about money and not every officer operates the same way. There is a clear difference between informal expectations, subtle pressure and outright demands.

Sometimes corruption appears as vague hints, unnecessary delays or invented problems that suddenly require a “solution.” In other cases it is direct and blunt: pay or you do not move on. The level often depends on location, hierarchy, visibility and how much leverage an officer believes they have.

Low-level corruption is usually opportunistic and transactional. It relies on impatience, uncertainty and fear of consequences. Higher-level corruption is more structured, more confident and often protected by authority or distance from public scrutiny.

Understanding these differences matters. Responding to a subtle hint as if it were an open demand, can escalate a situation unnecessarily. Treating a clear demand as a misunderstanding, can sometimes defuse it.

The key is observation: tone, body language, setting and timing tell you more than words ever will.

These different levels often show up very clearly.

Level 1 – Indirect and informal
This is the most common and often the least aggressive form. It sounds harmless and is usually framed as a favor or a joke: “What do you have for me?” or “Do you have something to eat?”
The intention is to test your reaction. Nothing is demanded openly. If ignored or handled calmly, it often goes nowhere.

Rule of thumb: give them nothing, no matter how friendly the request may sound. Any attempt, any gift, can be interpreted by others as a bribe.
Kindly decline, smile and add a friendly wink – the kind that signals respect, not mockery:
“I’m sorry, I’m not allowed to give anything. You know the rules better than I do – as a professional and respected officer.”
Or, if they ask for a gift, reply with a smile:
“I brought you a (German) smile.”
Laugh lightly and keep the tone warm.

Level 2 – Direct but still personal
Here the tone changes. The request becomes explicit and personal, often mixed with assumptions or pressure:
“Give me your money, you are rich.”
At this stage the officer is no longer fishing – he is asking. The situation is still reversible, but boundaries matter.

Rule of thumb: if you are asked directly for money, respond calmly and keep it light:
“Why would I give you my money, sir?”
Laugh gently – not mockingly! – and add:
“I’m just glad I managed to scrape together enough to visit your beautiful country.”
Stay friendly and humorous, but make it clear through your body language that there is nothing to be gained from you – not now, not later.

Level 3 – Coercive and definitely illegal
This is no longer subtle and no longer negotiable in tone. Authority is used as leverage:
“You will not get your passports back unless you pay.”
At this level, the situation has crossed from opportunism into outright extortion. How you respond now has legal and safety implications.

Rule of thumb: If for instance documents are withheld or payment is demanded, your reaction becomes decisive. Stay calm and confident – you are in the right.
Respond evenly:
“That surprises me. I’m not aware that I need to pay money ,to get documents back, that belong to the German state.”
If they do not back down, remain unhurried and composed:
“I have all the time in the world. Let’s have a coffee while you consider what should happen with the documents.”
As a final step – if drinking a coffee doesn’t help – keep your tone respectful and controlled:
“Respected Sir, I feel this is going in the wrong direction. If our documents are not returned… I’m sorry, what was your name again?… I’m happy to contact the tourism office, the anti-corruption hotline, or my embassy, just to verify that I’m not doing anything illegal or unlawfully refusing to comply.”
Then add calmly:
“I’m appealing to your professionalism, because I can see that otherwise you are doing your job very well.”

Important note!

Level-3 strategies are always situational. Visibility, time of day, location and the overall environment matter. What works at a public checkpoint during daylight, may be inappropriate in a remote area at night.
Use judgment. De-escalation and personal safety always come first.

Author’s note:

When a situation like this happened to me in Guinea, it escalated to the point, where I calmly held out my hands and said: “Then you’d better put handcuffs on me, arrest me and take me before a judge.”

The officer was visibly taken aback – and eventually let us go. USD 120 saved.

Understanding the Roots of Corruption

Not every corrupt officer is, by definition, a bad person. With a bit of empathy, it’s often possible to understand the situations: many of them are in low wages, irregular pay, family pressure, institutional decay and a system that quietly tolerates or even expects informal income.

In many places, corruption is not an exception, but a parallel system. It fills gaps left by weak institutions, poor enforcement and unclear accountability. For some, it becomes normalized behavior – learned early, reinforced daily and rarely challenged.

Understanding this context helps explain behavior, but it does not justify it. Empathy is not approval. Personal hardship does not legitimize abusing authority or shifting responsibility onto others.

There is a clear line between understanding why something happens and accepting it as normal.

Becoming corrupt out of personal hardship
does not legitimize an illegal act.

The Psychology on Both Sides

Encounters at borders and checkpoints are not primarily legal or administrative situations – they are human interactions. Two sides meet, each with their own expectations, pressure and instincts.

Travelers often arrive tired, tense or defensive, focused on rules and documents. Officers, on the other hand, seem to sense from a distance who is behind the wheel – almost as if they can smell the mindset of the person approaching. Confidence, insecurity, impatience or calmness are often read long before a single word is spoken.

Both sides react intuitively, often within seconds. Understanding this shared psychology matters. Many situations escalate or dissolve not because of law or authority, but because of tone, body language and perceived intent. Recognizing how both sides think – and how reactions influence each other – is key to navigating these encounters calmly and effectively.

The Psychological Perspective of Officers

Many interactions at checkpoints follow a simple psychological script. Officers constantly read people. Not documents first – people. Tone, facial expression, body language and reaction speed matter more than what is actually said.

If they sense tension, fear, irritation or hostility – no smile, no eye contact, a short or rude tone – the situation often tightens. What was routine suddenly becomes a “problem.” More questions appear, procedures slow down and authority is asserted more forcefully. Resistance, even passive resistance, is interpreted as disrespect or challenge.

If, on the other hand, they see people who wave, smile, greet them openly and appear relaxed, the dynamic often changes immediately. Friendly behavior signals: no threat, no confrontation, no drama. It lowers the perceived risk and removes the need to assert dominance.

Humor plays a key role. A light joke, a warm smile or an easy laugh humanizes the interaction. It shifts the encounter from control to conversation. Not because officers are naive – but because the situation no longer feels adversarial.

Officers are also sensitive to confidence. Calm, relaxed confidence without arrogance signals experience. It suggests that the traveler knows the routine, is not afraid and is unlikely to be pressured easily. This often leads to quicker resolutions and fewer attempts to escalate.

In short, officers respond less to what you say than to how you make them feel. Friendly, relaxed behavior reduces friction. Tension, defensiveness or rudeness increase it.

Understanding this psychology does not guarantee success, but it explains why some encounters dissolve within seconds, while others spiral into unnecessary conflict.

Friendliness and kindness are always the key.
And a smile disarms – every time.

The Traveler’s Psychology: Intent and Control

Our aim is to retain control from the outset by shaping the interaction early – using distraction, conversational redirection and deliberate engagement through friendliness and humor. Rhetoric and dialectical skill matter, because whoever defines the tone and structure of the exchange, often defines its outcome.

From our side, friendliness is intentional and sometimes deliberately amplified. Not fake and submissive, but proactive. We start talking immediately. An enthusiastic greeting, genuine appreciation for the country, how happy we are to finally be here. This shifts the dynamic instantly.

It distracts and breaks the expected script. Suddenly, the officer is reacting instead of leading.

Posture matters. Chest forward, upright stance. A calm, deep and friendly voice. Open, confident, without hesitation or fear. The message is clear: we are comfortable, we are experienced and we are in control of ourselves (and of the current situation). We lead the interaction and subtly guide where it goes.

If I need to step out of the vehicle, I do so confidently. Upright posture, a handshake if appropriate:
“Nice to meet you. How can I help you?”

We deliberately work with words, body language, humor and emotion.
Sometimes it’s as simple as saying: “Look, I’m getting goosebumps just thinking about the fact that my wife, my car and I made it all the way here – to your beautiful country.”

In many cases, this approach disarms the situation almost immediately. Very often, it never escalates beyond “Level 1”. High-level corruption attempts simply don’t happen.

There is, however, another type: the aggressive officer. Friendly behavior has no effect. The goal here is provocation in pushing you until you lose control and make a mistake.

In these moments, composure is everything. Breathe. Do NOT get angry.
Because “the best statement is the one delivered without anger”.

We prepare mentally for these situations, especially when we know what kind of border or checkpoint lies ahead. I rehearse phrases, sentence fragments and remind myself to stay confident and grounded.

Authenticity, honesty, self-confidence and experience must be visible. Good posture. Clear speech. Respect the officer as a person of authority – regardless of his rank. Never accuse an officer of corruption. Never corner them into a position they cannot exit. Always leave them an exit strategy.

The underlying message is simple and unspoken: I travel long-term. I know how this works. Let’s keep this easy.

That combination – controlled friendliness, confidence and psychological awareness – is often more effective than any argument or document.

If none of this works, we wait it out. We stay calm, remain friendly and never (well… I should say “barely”) become irritated or loud. By doing so, we signal that we have time, patience and enough experience to see the situation through.

If an officer crosses the line, I set boundaries immediately and without detours. I state clearly how this interaction needs to proceed, while explicitly expressing respect for the officer as a person. I make it clear that the situation is drifting out of control.

My voice becomes firmer – still calm and respectful, but noticeably more authoritative than before. This is the officer’s final opportunity to step back before the situation escalates further and is going to open Pandoras Box.

As a final step, I sometimes use a psychological – and not entirely risk-free – approach. I make it clear that I will not pay, no matter what. I explicitly offer myself for arrest and state, that I am willing to be taken before a judge, regardless of how long it takes.

The message is unambiguous: this is the line. No further.

At this point, the officer needs an exit strategy. He has to act, but without losing face. I deliberately lower the tension again, return to a friendly tone and subtle offer a way out, that allows him to disengage without embarrassment.

This is difficult to describe in abstract terms, but at the end of this article, I provide concrete examples of how such exit paths can look in practice.

In the end, we always managed to get out, even when situations escalated and carried real risk.

When Not to Push Further

There are moments when psychology, confidence and patience stop being tools and start becoming risks. Knowing where that line is, matters more than any tactic.

We do not push further at night, in isolated areas or when there are no witnesses. We do not push when alcohol is involved or when the atmosphere turns unpredictable. And we do not sit things out when weapons come into play or when the balance of power is clearly no longer stable.

In those situations, the priority shifts. Safety comes before principle. Getting out clean matters more than being right. Walking away with your freedom intact is always the better outcome.

This is not weakness but sound judgment.

A Legal Reality Check

In real overland travel, corruption patterns vary greatly by region – like we documented in detail during our West Africa journey.

What you’re reading here isn’t meant as instructions or a handbook. It’s simply what we’ve learned over decades on the road – what worked for us, what didn’t and what we adjusted along the way.

Laws change from country to country, authority is interpreted differently and local realities often outweigh whatever is written down in regulations. Every situation is its own mix of people, place and timing. In the end, each traveler has to make their own decisions and live with the consequences.

This is not legal advice. It’s our very experience from the field, nothing more… nothing less.

But hey, let’s be honest – At the end of the day, it’s like this:

The officer at the boom gate is a small cog in the system, someone who rarely has real authority.
They demand respect and often make themselves more important than they actually are. Many of those we encountered, couldn’t even read or write (though to be clear: some absolutely can).

That said, they also have something to lose: their job.
That’s why many act very subtly and – because they’re clever – operate right at the edge of legality, but still on their side of the line.
Others, however, are blunt and rigid and seem to give little thought to the consequences, their actions might have for themselves.

I’m convinced, that as long as you’re not traveling in a country where no law applies at all (what I would call lawless states), travelers are – despite appearances – generally on the safer side and initially have little to fear. In the end, many countries depend on travelers and hardly any country wants a public incident once a traveler starts asserting their rights.

Even in Afghanistan, in February 2026, a corrupt official was arrested by the Taliban after being exposed, because travelers contacted the appropriate authorities. At many border posts, there are notices with phone numbers for “corruption hotlines.” We often subtly draw the attention of potentially corrupt officers to these signs or posters.

As travelers, we usually have little more to lose than time and nerves.
The officer, however, risks his livelihood. That’s just it!

When you’re traveling, the moment you pay, changes everything.

The Cost of Giving In

The moment you give in, you signal that you’re an easy mark. Word travels fast in these circles. By the next checkpoint, you’re no longer just another traveler – you’re a walking ATM. The bar drops instantly. Requests come quicker, demands get pushier and whatever patience existed before is suddenly gone.

There’s also a psychological cost that shouldn’t be underestimated. Every time you pay under pressure, you train yourself to fold. Your confidence takes a hit. The calm, clear-headed way you once handled difficult situations slowly gets replaced by a reflex to simply make the problem disappear. Over time, you stop dealing with situations – you start avoiding them. Travel begins to feel smaller, not freer.

Then there’s the cold legal reality most people prefer to ignore. In many countries, handing over that “little something” is a crime – not only for the officer asking, but also for you paying. What feels like a quick fix in the moment, can later turn into fines, court appearances, deportation risks or permanent marks on your record.

Yes, refusing to pay can cost time, nerves and discomfort. Sometimes it means standing around longer than you’d like, in the heat, the rain or the dust.

But paying almost always, costs more in the long run: to your self-respect, to the travelers who come after you and to the entire corrupt system, that keeps repeating itself, simply because it works.

This isn’t about being a hero or taking the moral high ground.
It’s about understanding, what you’re really buying, when you quietly say, “Okay, fine,” and hand over the cash.

Do NOT do that!

Are there exceptions?

No. Not Really.
Even though, as experienced travelers, we have a lot of understanding for less experienced travelers – especially those traveling with dogs or small children – who may be tempted to pay a small amount to save time or avoid tense situations, it remains a criminal offense. And it can have serious consequences for the travelers themselves.

The only legitimate exception is immediate danger to life or serious physical harm.
If a situation escalates to real, credible threat and paying is the only way to de-escalate and get out safely, survival comes first.

Especially when traveling with children, responsibility, good preparation and clear decisions matter most.

Bribery is illegal in many jurisdictions and not “just a local workaround” – the OECD provides a concise overview of how foreign bribery is treated internationally.

In the end, none of this is really about being “right” or winning some moral argument.
It’s about keeping going… together.

Over time, you learn, where it’s worth digging in your heels and where it’s smarter to let something slide. You also learn humility along the way. We misread situations. We push too hard, say the wrong thing or freeze up. We mess up, feel stupid for a moment, learn from it and try to do better next time.

You’re never going to fix the broken systems you run into. What you can do is, learn how to move through them without losing your own compass and without turning into someone you don’t recognize.

Staying calm when everything feels off, staying kind even when you’re angry and knowing, when to shut up and walk away – those things matter far more than any clever line or power move.

We wish all of you the very best on your journey – whatever your path may look like in the end.
Safe travels… and maybe we’ll cross paths someday, somewhere on the road.

Yours,
Totti & Fenny

(Everything written here was originally written in German by Totti, translated into English and then refined by AI to improve clarity and readability – so that browsers can also translate it more accurately into other languages..)

FAQ - Some Examples and Tips Of How We dealt With Such Situations

How to prepare properly to avoid such situations?

true costs of overland travel

TiKay — Tue, 10 Feb 2026 12:44:26 +0000

SUMMARY: True Overland Travel Costs

Total spent: €78,341.87
Average per month: €1,187
Average per person per day: €19.52
Covers: travel-related expenses (vehicle, fuel, food, internet, visas/permits, maintenance, accommodation, activities)
Not included: home base costs, taxes, mandatory health insurance and long-term savings/investing

Hey travelers from around the world – Fenny and Totti here.

Even though we have traveled to more than 90 countries since 1997 – as shown on the map above – during our 5+ year long-term journey we covered 119,066 km across 47 countries.
And now – after such a long time on the road – we feel it’s time to take a sober look at the financial side of long-term travel.

Countries we covered so far within this 5,5 years:
Germany, Austria, Italy w. Sicily and Sardinia, Hungary, Romania, Serbia, North Macedonia, Kosovo, Albania, Bulgaria, Greece, Turkey, Georgia, Armenia, Kurdistan, Iran, Iraq, Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, Bahrain, United Arab Emirates, Oman, Jordan, Moldova, Transnistria, Tunisia, Spain, Morocco, Mauritania, Senegal, Gambia, Guinea, Ivory Coast, Ghana, Togo, Benin, Nigeria, Cameroon, Republic of the Congo, Democratic Republic of Congo, Angola, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, South Africa, Lesotho, Eswatini.

WHAT DOES A LONG-TERM TRAVEL JOURNEY OR A WORLD TRIP ACTUALLY COST? – 66 MONTHS LATER

Back in 2020, we made the decision to leave everything behind. We sold all our belongings and invested the money in the stock market – without knowing if the plan would work out or what such a journey would really cost in the end.

Using the proceeds from selling our vehicles, we bought a Sprinter 903 4×4, converted it and set off after just 42 days. Originally, two years were planned. Two turned into five and five eventually turned into something open-ended.

We are overlanders and we travel in a very cost-conscious way, following a simple principle: “the less money we spend, the longer we can stay on the road”. We no longer work on a regular basis – only occasionally, when necessary.
Our philosophy is free travel, free camping and free living. We do not avoid hotels or campsites mainly for financial reasons, but because we simply sleep better and prefer living in our own vehicle.

Living cost-consciously has always been part of our lives. Even when we earned good money, we never lived beyond our means. Downsizing therefore came naturally to us. We are perfectly happy wearing second-hand clothes, buying used items or picking things up from the roadside, as long as they are still functional. Recycling or up-cycling – however you wanna call it – is something we genuinely enjoy.

We prefer to spend our money on diesel, on our vehicle and yes – this needs to be mentioned because it is a significant cost factor: we also smoke.
From time to time, a new camera, a laptop or other nerd gadgets are part of our lives and something we do not want to give up. Tourist hotspots, on the other hand, are not our priority. We are far more interested in places that are unknown or rarely visited.

Inside our van, we do not aim for a strictly minimalist lifestyle. A TV is part of it just like a stereo system, a shower with a instant water heater, a diesel heater, a large fridge, proper cooking and washing facilities and sufficient electrical power. Comfort matters to us, but luxury does not.

We do not drive routes twice. Our journeys are planned carefully. Not out of fear or excessive caution, but because we enjoy planning and want to travel efficiently. Detours cost diesel and wear parts – both of which we consciously try to avoid.

We do not eat out every day. Fenny bakes excellent bread, cooks a great goulash and her ribs are simply outstanding. Restaurants are rather rare for us, but we do enjoy finger food and street food from time to time.

So now you know us and our way of traveling. Pure luxury is not our thing, but we also do not travel on the absolute edge.

If you recognize yourself in this approach, you will likely relate much better to our costs than someone, who travels with an overlanding rig, but stays in hotels every night or visits every single attraction. Both approaches are perfectly legitimate – just not ours.

Let’s get started – The journey through our costs.

Pure FACTS:

The following costs do not include fixed expenses (such as taxes, insurances, etc.) as these vary greatly from traveler to traveler. Over the course of the past five years we have gradually disconnected ourselves from Germany, closed our company and reduced the associated costs. Around a year ago we also fully deregistered our vehicle, meaning there are currently no vehicle taxes or insurance costs.

We finance our travels entirely on our own through savings, that generate returns and dividends as well as through passive income streams. These cover a large portion of our expenses while also helping us stay below taxable thresholds, which are relatively high in our case. We consistently aim to remain below these limits and generally succeed in doing so. That said, we are still officially registered in Germany.

In the following section we are talking strictly about travel-related costs. So no “luxury” items included.
(Luxury items such as laptop, 2 smartphones, 2 Mini PCs, camera equipment, mobile power station, a canoe, a drone and other electronic devices, as well as less typical expenses like festival visits, amount to roughly €10,000 for us.)

Included Costs:

Fuel (Diesel)
Vehicle maintenance, repairs & spare parts
Accommodation (camping, lodges, hotels when used)
Food and Groceries
Restaurants and Street Food
National Parks and Sightseeing Fees
Visas and Border-related costs
Communication and Internet (SIM cards, Starlink)
Miscellaneous daily expenses
Cigarettes
PCR Tests
BRIBES? WE NEVER PAID EVEN ONE CENT!

And to keep it short for the impatient:

Overland Travel Costs After 66 Months (Total + Averages)

€78,341.87
Per year: ø 14.243,98
Per month: ø €1.186,39
Per person/ per day: ø €19,50

Let’s Go More Into Detail

On a journey like this some costs are simply unavoidable. Diesel is, of course, the biggest factor – the more you drive, the more you pay. Workshops and repairs are part of the deal as well. Every vehicle breaks down at some point, usually sooner rather than later. The more off-road you drive, the more often you will find yourself in a workshop. Visas have to be paid for, borders are not free and on top of all that we still need to eat, live and get from one day to the next.
But hey… take a look at the numbers and see how much money you could save by not smoking. Let that sink in for a second 😁.

Vehicle Costs (jump directly to the breakdown)	20,389.51€
Miscellaneous (jump directly to the breakdown)	15,897.33€
Food (jump directly to the breakdown)	14,991.99€
Diesel	11,369.33€
Cigarettes	11,087.73€
Internet & Communication	2,473.42€
Accommodation	1,085.90€
Entrance Fees & Sightseeing	1,046.66€

Vehicle Costs Breakdown

Spare parts¹	7,285.57€
Workshops²	6,111.07€
Maintenance³	2,495.99€
Ferries	1,387.57€
Insurance	1,005.11€
TIP (Temporary Import Permit)	512.95€
Toll roads	437.34€
Spare Parts Shipping	427.80€
Carnet De Passage	350.00€
Fees	156.90€
Car wash	153.78€
Parking	53.49€
Rest	11.94€

Go back to the Overview

¹Items we purchased and stored for later use.
²Over time we have drastically reduced these costs as, we now do most of the work ourselves.
³Operating fluids, tires and tools, that I did not previously have.

Miscellaneous Costs Breakdown

Health¹	5.308,46€
Visa	3.974,67€
Hardware Stores	2.750,61€
Shipping/Transport Of Goods	1.576,66€
PCR Tests (only during COVID)	803,99€
Cash / Banking or Exchange Fees	781,13€
Tips and gifts	370,88€
Clothes	366,71€
New Passports	323,90€
Solarmoduls	329,07€
Gas	258,92€
Washing Clothes	218,54€
Copyshops	48,07€
Rest	51.39€

Go back to the Overview

¹ Health also includes a portion of our health insurance costs, which would normally fall under fixed expenses, therefore the total amount here is higher.

Food Costs Breakdown

Food, Groceries etc	12.513,47 €
Restaurants, Street Food	2478,52 €

Go back to the Overview

Want MORE? Here We go:

Our five-year journey can be divided into several distinct phases: Europe, Asia, the Middle East and Africa, for instance. Each continent, each region and each individual country comes with its own financial challenges. What is cheap in one region can quickly become expensive in another and planning assumptions often need to be adjusted along the way.
While travel in and around Europe was still relatively affordable, the sheer costs in Africa can really knock the wind out of you.

So let’s break down the regional costs in a bit more detail.

Anyone who assumes that Africa is a cheap continent to travel through, is seriously mistaken. Africa has the lowest average purchasing power and GDP per capita of all continents, yet for long-term travelers and overlanders it often turns out to be one of the most expensive regions. High border and visa costs, challenging logistics, vehicle wear and limited infrastructure, quickly drive expenses far beyond expectations. Not even touching on the cost of living yet

And to keep it short again for all the impatient:
Costs broken down per region, per year:

Asia
€10.555,80
Per month: ø €879,65
Per person/ per day: ø €14,46

From Turkey to Iran. Spareparts, as well as food and internet is quite inexpensive. Sometimes we only had 350€ per month.

Middle East
€12.501,25
Per month: ø €1.041
Per person/ per day: ø €17,12

In Saudi Arabia visas were very expensive, while diesel was almost free. Cigarettes were extremely cheap in Kuwait but expensive in Oman. Spare parts were often unavailable, so we had to order and ship them from Germany.
All in all, the Arabian Peninsula is not cheap, but it is also not excessively expensive if you set clear limits. Without those limits, this part of the journey can easily become costly as well.

Europe
€14.092,65
Per month: ø €1.174,38
Per person/ per day: ø €19,30

Some countries in Europe are extremely affordable, such as Bulgaria, while others are rather expensive, Greece among them. Overall, prices were largely what we were used to.

Africa
€15.019,75
Per month: ø €1.251,64
Per person/ per day: ø €20,57

Africa surprised us. Not because visas were sometimes very expensive – we expected that – but because of the often outrageous food prices. And we are not talking about “prices for white people”, because in supermarkets prices are the same for everyone. Coffee, chocolate and meat were extremely expensive, often five times higher or more than what we were used to.
Diesel was cheaper than in our home regions, but still relatively costly overall. Spare parts are prohibitively expensive if bought new and Africa is by far the most customs-intensive continent, when it comes to imports. Shipping often feels like it has to be paid for with a kidney.
Southern Africa improves in some respects, but there accommodation- and attraction costs start to hit hard(er).
Some fun facts from the road:
Out of the total €1,085.90 we spent on accommodation, €701.79 alone was spent in Africa.

We always avoided and never paid bribes. We do not know, how we managed that, but read here, why.
During nearly 40,000 km across the Middle East we burned 5,380.44 liters of diesel and paid just €2,028.22 for it. That comes down to an average of €0.37 per liter – numbers that still make Europeans blink twice.
All visas combined cost us €3,974.67, with a solid 62.24% of that spent on the West Africa route alone.
Asia turned out to be the cheapest region when it came to internet access – fast, reliable and surprisingly affordable.
And then there was Oman. We pushed our cost optimization a little too far and drove two detours of roughly 1,300 km each to Kuwait to “optimize🤷‍♀️😂” cigarette prices. Diesel in Saudi Arabia was around €0.16 per liter, while cigarettes in Oman and the UAE were painfully expensive. Not so in Kuwait. Here there cigarettes were amazingly cheap. The result: roughly €1,300 saved – and a strong case study in questionable financial life choices😂.

All in all, we can say that we probably travel less expensively than most – or at least a large part – of long-term travelers. Back when we started, we didn’t really worry about what traveling would cost, but in the back of our minds were always the prices from our old travel style: flights, hotels, rental cars and all that.

Almost every country surprised us – sometimes very positively, sometimes quite the opposite. For us and our way of traveling, it turned out that this is something we can comfortably sustain for quite a while.

Our goal? To keep traveling until God himself comes to pick us up.
Will it work? Let’s talk about that again in 30 years – and if you happen to find us sleeping under a bridge before then, feel free to leave a coin or a slice of bread 😉

Yours,
Totti & Fenny

ohhhhh… PS: If you feel any information is missing or if you have questions, wishes or suggestions, feel free to leave a comment. Much appreciated 🙂

FAQ

How much of the total cost was unavoidable?

transafrica travelmap by travelcandies

TiKay — Thu, 29 Jan 2026 06:22:04 +0000

“AFRICA’s NOT FOR PUSSIES”

… a common saying, how we learned 🤷‍♀️😂
This continent is not a place for improvised long-distance travel. You may have the watches – Africa has the time.

Unlike other continents poor planning in Africa doesn’t just mean inconvenience – it means getting stuck. Visas have fixed validity windows, borders open and close without notice and immigration rules can change from one week to the next. Miss a timing window and you don’t reroute – you wait.

Seasonality matters. Rainy seasons turn passable roads into impassable mud wash away bridges and cut entire regions off for weeks. A route that is straightforward in the dry season can become impossible a month later. Planning without accounting for weather is planning to fail.

Road conditions are equally unforgiving. Distances mean little, when average speeds drop to 20 km/h or less. What looks like a short day on the map, can destroy suspension, tyres and nerves. Vehicle choice is therefore not about comfort, but about survivability repairability and parts availability.

Costs are another common misconception. While daily expenses can be low, borders, visas, carnets, repairs, fuel detours and forced stops add up quickly. Without a realistic budget buffer, plans collapse fast – and yes Africa can be expensive. In our experience it has been the most expensive continent we’ve ever traveled.

Finally Africa demands time. Bureaucracy cannot be rushed. Repairs cannot be scheduled. Waiting is part of the journey. A tight timeline leaves no margin for reality – and reality always wins.

Targeted planning doesn’t remove uncertainty.
But without it, Africa doesn’t forgive.

So what’s the map actually about?

For whom this map exists – and what it is (and isn’t)

This map grew out of decisions made on the road. At borders, on broken tracks, in bad weather and sometimes late at night, when turning around was no longer an option.

It answers the questions, that matter once you’re already out there:
Where does this route really go? What will slow you down? What looks easy on the screen but turns into a problem on the ground? Where to sleep, where to get internet, how visas work and where patience matters more than speed.

The map connects routes, borders, delays, road conditions and logistics into one clear picture.
It supports decisions, it doesn’t replace them. Use it as orientation, not instruction.

What it is
. Driven routes and tested waypoints
. A realistic view on borders, logistics and road conditions
. A tool to reduce uncertainty and costly mistakes

What it isn’t
. A guarantee
. An inspiration map
. A fixed itinerary

Who it’s for
For travelers and overlanders who don’t just drive off and hope for the best. Many, many turn back – not because they lack courage, but because they misjudge timing, paperwork, weather, roads or costs.

Use it like a compass, not like autopilot.

What You’ll Find On The Map

Country Infos
Country-specific information for overland travel, including practical notes, local conditions and an info marker in every country we visited. Each country info includes photos and a linked YouTube video for real context beyond text.

Driven Routes (34,029 km)
Routes that have been physically driven, recorded with a GPS tracker and documented. Includes photos from the road to show real conditions.

Borders & Checkpoints
Border crossings and internal checkpoints that were actually used. Supported by photos and occasional videos to illustrate procedures, waiting situations and complexity.

Embassies, CDP & Immigration
Relevant embassies and immigration-related locations, including carnet de passage handling. Where useful, visual material is included to document locations and processes.

Logistics
Practical logistics such as fuel, supplies, repairs, SIM cards, water, LPG/gas, restaurants and several other usefull businesses and services. Many entries include photos showing availability and conditions on the ground.

Overnight Camps
Wild Camp spots or official camp sites used or evaluated during travel, including camps and practical stopovers. Most locations include photos to give a realistic impression.

DANGER
Areas or situations that require increased awareness. Visual material is included where it helps to understand context, without sensationalizing risk.

Road Conditions
Road quality, surfaces, seasonal problems and slow sections. Photos and videos are used to show what a road actually looks like when it matters.

Sightseeing POIs
Selected points of interest that are genuinely worth stopping for. Entries often include photos or videos to show what makes them relevant.

How TO USE the map properly

The map works on all devices. Appearance and behavior may vary depending on screen size and operating system. This is defined by Google, as the map is based on Google My Maps.

On the left side you’ll find the main menu. Google limits My Maps to a maximum of 10 layers, which is why some content is grouped. For example, all POIs across all countries are combined into a single layer.

Depending on your device, the menu may already be visible or collapsed. On some devices it appears when you swipe up from the bottom of the screen, on others when you swipe from left to right. This behavior is also controlled by Google and cannot be customized.

Layers can be shown or hidden by simply enabling or disabling the checkbox. This allows you to focus on what’s relevant at any given moment.

Some layers contain grouped points. A typical example is DANGER, where multiple entries share the same icon. These layers can be expanded or collapsed to show or hide individual points.

Sightseeing POIs are not grouped. Each location uses a specific icon that reflects what it represents, such as waterfalls, forests, viewpoints, or landmarks. This makes it easier to distinguish them directly on the map without opening lists.

The idea is simple: turn layers on and off depending on what you need right now. Planning, orientation, or problem-solving.

Additional notes for the icon cloud on the left of Africa.

The icon cloud highlights the key areas that shape long-distance travel across Africa. Each symbol stands for a specific field of information that becomes relevant at different stages of the journey, from early planning to daily decisions on the road.

Behind each icon you’ll find focused notes on topics such as health precautions, documents and visas, vehicle readiness, water and food handling, fuel and gas, finances, navigation, safety, waste and personal mindset.

Taken together, the icons reflect how many parallel factors influence progress. Travel rarely fails because of one big issue, but because several small ones add up. Addressing them early, keeps routes open and choices flexible once you’re underway.

On the lower right of the map (between Africa and Madagascar), you’ll see a temperature icon, representing a climate spreadsheet, which represents the temperatures and rainfalls based on the historical weather from 1991-2023.
(Source: Climate Knowledge Portal)

Final Notes, Limitations and Access

Update Status
The map is updated continuously while we are on the road. All information reflects real conditions at the time of travel and is adjusted when routes, borders, or procedures change. Still, Africa changes faster than any map can keep up, so critical points should always be checked shortly before reaching them.

Reality Check
Borders change rules overnight. Visas get reinterpreted. Roads disappear after a single rainy week. Security situations can shift without warning. This map reduces uncertainty, but it cannot remove it.

Technical Limitations
The map is built on Google My Maps and follows Google’s technical constraints. Google allows a maximum of 10 layers, which is why some content is grouped. Layout and performance may vary depending on device and operating system. Offline use is limited by the platform itself.

Responsibility
This map does not replace personal responsibility. Route choice, timing and decision-making remain entirely with the traveler. What worked for us at a specific time may not work the same way later.

Who this map is not for
This map is not intended for short trips, guided tours, or travelers who deliberately avoid planning. If you prefer pure improvisation, this tool will likely feel restrictive rather than helpful.

Access, donations and future pricing
The map will remain accessible and completely free of charge. A small donation as a sign of appreciation is welcome, but absolutely not required. As a thank you, donors receive the map as a KML file, which can be imported into their own navigation apps.

If you’d like to donate, you can do so via PayPal at:
𝗶𝗲𝗱𝗻𝗹𝗮𝗯@𝗳𝗼𝗼𝘁𝗮𝗴𝗲𝗰𝗮𝗻𝗱𝗶𝗲𝘀.𝗰𝗼𝗺

Use the map critically. Plan carefully and keep in mind that the road always has the final say.

Already interested?
Drop us a mail and we’ll be with you in no time😊

Totti & Fenny

The post transafrica travelmap by travelcandies appeared first on TRAVELcandies-On-Tour.

Through The Wild West Of Africa

TiKay — Thu, 08 May 2025 09:28:37 +0000

Why You Should Take A Journey Through West Africa – And What Awaits You

The decision to drive our 20 year “old” van along the West African coast to Angola is not a simple one. This is not an adventure you select from a catalog. Rather, it is a journey toward self-discovery, toward others and toward a continent that many know only from the media but few truly understand. It’s a yearning to experience authentic Africa – far removed from idealized notions and stereotypes.

Why undertake this journey?
What motivates someone to embark on such a trip? The answer lies not just in the desire for adventure, but also in the thirst for real experiences. West Africa is not a region of “epic landscapes” found on postcards. It is defined by its people, its culture, its resilience, its capacity for improvisation – and, above all, the reality that holds up a mirror to you.

This is not a challenge you take on simply to have a good time. Those who set out on this journey are in search of something real… at least we were. Mental fortitude, pragmatism and a profound willingness to embrace the unforeseen are essential. Every day on the road is an adventure that tests you and demands much of you.

As John F. Kennedy once said: “We don’t do it, because it’s easy, we’re doing it, because it’s hard“… or at least seems to be.
We didn’t take this journey because it was simple – we wanted to find out what truly awaited us. We wanted to confront the clichés, challenge urban legends (wherever they exist) and create awareness without sugarcoating anything. We aimed to remove fear where it’s unfounded – and face our own fears and preconceptions where it’s not.

For us – on the other side – the journey itself was never the goal, as we had long understood that West Africa is not a continent of pure beauty as we expect it. Our main destination was southern and eastern Africa, starting in Namibia. We simply aimed to avoid the rainy season in West Africa and pass through Nigeria as quickly as possible, since the rainy season here can last up to nine months.

Our plan worked perfectly. The October start was ideal, allowing us to travel through the various countries without undue haste. We saw, experienced, learned and felt a great deal. However, as time went on, we began to realize just how exhausting it all was. The need for recovery periods became more frequent and they needed to last longer.

Six months, then, turned out to be the perfect amount of time. It gave us enough space to take in the essence of the region – its people, culture and challenges – without burning out. We could dive deep into the reality of the journey while still maintaining a balance between exploration and the need to recharge. West Africa, with all its complexities, demands this balance, as it is not a place where one can simply race through. Time, patience and resilience become just as important as the experiences themselves.

Ultimately, the six months we spent in West Africa allowed us to engage deeply with the region and by the end, we understood the continent in a way that can’t be captured in photos or postcards. What we gained wasn’t just knowledge, but a profound transformation in how we view the world – and a recognition of our own limits, strength, and capacity to grow.

The Vehicle: 4×4 Not Required and Overrated! – But Endurance: Most Important And Often Underestimated

Choosing a vehicle for such a journey is more than a practical decision – it is part of the adventure… and it’s part of your life! If it breaks down, you’re stuck… and that might happen somewhere in the middle of nowhere.

We traveled in a Mercedes Sprinter 311 CDI 4×4. At first glance, one might think that a 4×4 is absolutely necessary, but that’s not the case! A good vehicle doesn’t need complex technology or specialized equipment. What it needs is a bit of ground clearance, robustness and… simplicity!
“Keep it simple, keep it stock”

Whether you’re traveling with a truck, a van or a micro-camper: the ideal car does not exist!

Truck: Offers maximum autonomy and off-road capability, ideal for extreme terrain and long isolation – but it’s expensive, bulky and always attracts unwanted attention due to its size and appearance.
Van: Strikes the best balance between comfort, mobility and discretion – spacious enough to live in, agile enough for narrow roads and border crossings and inconspicuous enough to park in urban or rural settings without standing out.
Mini-camper: Affordable, highly maneuverable and low-profile – perfect for budget-conscious travelers – but comes with serious compromises in comfort, storage and long-term livability, especially in remote areas.

For us personally – and especially on this tour – the van was the ideal solution: plenty of storage, not too big and not too small and – crucially – it provided the ability to retreat and lock ourselves in when needed. As the journey progressed, we came to realize just how essential that last point truly was.

As we drove a big part of this journey together with our friends Abenteuer-Campervan in a Sprinter 2×4, we were astonished, how capable this car was, apart from the fact that you don’t just “casually drive in” somewhere in this part of Africa, you often end up in compounds or deep jungle with no option to turn around.

Bring everything you might need and can’t easily find on the road – belts, hoses, sensors, diesel filters, seals, tools – because once you’re out there, you’re on your own.

Don’t count on garages: most repairs are quick fixes meant to get you 500 km down the road, if that. If you can’t fix it yourself, you’ll pay. Then you’ll wait. And you’ll hope.

Ordering spare parts? It’s possible – but slow, costly and nerve-wracking. Africa has some of the highest import duties worldwide. A €100 part can quickly turn into €300–500 with shipping, customs and bribes.

Your best bet: know how to fix it yourself – and carry what you need to do it.

The Roads and Diesel: The Invisible Challenges

The quality of the roads varies greatly – from well-paved roads in Morocco or Kongo to nearly impassable tracks in Guinee or Nigeria. A vehicle with less frills handles these conditions much better.
A crucial note: Every vehicle will suffer. Dust, extreme heat, potholes and dryness take their toll on every vehicle – from the bodywork, the transmisson, the suspension to the engine.

Road conditions are a recurring theme throughout this journey. Asphalt often ends in the middle of nowhere and what follows are corrugated dirt roads, potholes and impassable stretches. Even then the best 4×4 has its limits.

Diesel in this part of Africa is said to be of poor quality – often containing over 2000 ppm of sulfur, adulterated, diluted with water or simply contaminated with dirt and sludge. It makes no difference whether it comes from a bottle or a fuel station.
In our case, the diesel pre-filter never showed water or excessive dirt and we didn’t experience any loss of power, black smoke or misfiring. We were lucky.
However, since our vehicle has neither an EGR system nor a DPF, we can’t truly assess the fuel quality. If your engine has either component, it’s wise to remove them, deactivate them or have them reprogrammed.

Better safe than sorry – we’ve heard more than a few stories of engine damage from fellow travelers.

Hygiene and Health: Prevention Is Key

Health risks on this journey should not be underestimated. Malaria, gastrointestinal diseases and infections are widespread. But again, prevention is the key. We prepared ourselves with essential medications, vaccinations and a well-stocked first aid kit. The conditions require constant hygiene – from handwashing to careful water purification.

Water is generally abundant in West Africa – but not always in drinkable form. Filtration and chlorination should be considered to avoid health risks. As for food, cooking for yourself is often the best option. In cities, there’s fresh fruit and vegetables, but refrigeration chains aren’t always reliable – and you shouldn’t take that risk.

Roadside vegetables are often contaminated with fine dust, heavy metals or other toxins. In rural areas, pesticide levels can be extreme; in cities, fecal bacteria are more common due to irrigation practices. Many travelers wash their vegetables with bleach (no joke) or potassium permanganate – others avoid them entirely. We mostly did the latter.

Malaria is prevalent in many regions of West Africa, transmitted through the bites of infected mosquitoes and can lead to severe illness or even death if not treated promptly. Prevention involves taking antimalarial medications, using insect repellent, sleeping under treated mosquito nets and wearing long-sleeved clothing, especially during peak mosquito activity at night.
The mosquito population in this part of Africa is and was very high, though we never contracted malaria. We used Care Plus with 50% DEET as our primary protection.

Vaccinations: Yellow fever (mandatory), Hepatitis A/B, Typhoid, Meningitis, Rabies – strongly recommended in nearly every country in Western Africa.

Visa, Bureaucracy and Checkpoints: Patience And Kindness Are Essential

Obtaining visas is not easy – especially in the West African countries. Some countries require several weeks to process a visa (or you’ll need to pay a lot on extra “express fees”) and the requirements vary significantly. Many countries require an invitation letter, hotel reservations and bank statements. Anyone who thinks bureaucracy is only a European problem will be disabused here… Africa takes it just to a complete new level of bullshittery.

You’ll constantly deal with border formalities and corruption at the checkpoints. Crossing borders is rarely quick or straightforward – whether it’s through questioning, bribery or long waits. Corruption is present in every single country we passed through, up to Namibia. Sometimes it’s subtle, sometimes more aggressive – often starting with a simple request, then escalating to a demand. Many times, papers won’t be handed over without payment. Fees are often imposed that don’t exist or officials simply expect “gifts.” Being asked for nothing is the exception, not the rule. The absurdities of some situations will make you question the generic common sense.

Allow a lot for buffer time, be patient, always be friendly and never ever pay bribes. N.E.V.E.R!

Fun-Fact: On our route straight through Nigeria we passed 203 checkpoints. See the video here.

People In West Africa

In general, the people we met were very kind, friendly, always waving and smiling. Deep conversations were rare, but Nigeria really surprised us in that regard. Ultimately, though, it often boiled down to begging: for food, drink, or money. People were surprisingly selective when it came to food and beverages, but when it came to money, they almost always wanted euros or dollars.

The widely spread, urbanized and often romanticized myth that even Black people are frequently begged from, just didn’t match our experience. We never once saw locals begging other locals. This gave the whole situation a rather unpleasant taste, especially when we really wanted to connect with the people. In the end, it led to us retreating more and more, avoiding contact as much as possible.

The behavior of many people we encountered on this journey can’t simply be explained by “poverty” – because, at least in much of West Africa, hunger or severe scarcity isn’t the dominant issue. Food and water are often abundant and nature provides generously. As one local put it: “Africa allows us to be lazy. We don’t have to do anything for all this – it’s a gift from God.”

What we experienced was less true need and more a deeply rooted expectation toward white travelers: We give, they take. It’s an unspoken, one-sided arrangement – often without gratitude or reciprocity. It’s not openly demanded, but almost universally expected. Those who don’t play along are quickly ignored or met with disapproval.

That makes genuine connection difficult. Over time, you stop feeling seen as a person and start feeling like a walking wallet – smiled at only as long as you’re handing something over. When you realize that, you begin to withdraw – not out of arrogance, but for your own peace of mind.

That’s the reality and it’s one you have to face head-on, no matter how uncomfortable the pure truth may be!

Pricing Structure – “The Price Of Paradise”

Aside from the already high visa costs – often several thousand euros for two people – it’s the daily expenses that make West Africa surprisingly expensive. Diesel may seem cheap, but since it’s almost always paid in cash, poor exchange rates and high ATM fees quickly add up. Food can also be a financial trap: a can of chili con carne for €15, a can of ravioli for €11 or 1 kg of tomatoes for €13 – not rare, but standard in this region. Imported goods are outrageously expensive in general. Spare parts are even worse – sometimes up to twenty times the European price, if you can find them at all.

Campsites (if available) often charge European prices for African standards and wild camping is increasingly complicated by “expected gifts” or direct demands. Even internet is a luxury: in some countries, a single gigabyte of mobile data can cost up to €15.

Conclusion:
Africa – contrary to popular belief – is expensive. Looking back, West Africa has been one of the most expensive legs of our entire journey.

But look forward to Namibia – suddenly, everything gets so much better😉

Safety On The Road: Reality Over Hysteria

Despite all the horror stories and warnings, we rarely felt truly unsafe during our journey through West Africa. Yes, we were stolen from multiple times and occasionally harassed or mistreated – but let’s be honest: that can happen anywhere in the world. What matters is staying alert, trusting your instincts, avoiding risky places at night and securing your valuables. Most encounters were peaceful and many people treated us with basic hospitality.
Fear shouldn’t stop anyone from visiting these countries – but naïveté can be just as dangerous.

Wild Camping: A Challenge, Not a Problem

Finding a good wild camping spot in West Africa isn’t always easy, but it’s far from impossible. Sometimes it takes longer, sometimes you get lucky right away – but one thing’s for sure: you’re rarely ever completely alone. As we like to say, “There’s always someone who suddenly screws themselves out of the ground – and you have no idea where they came from.” Whether deep in the bush or behind a remote village, curious visitors are almost guaranteed.

West Africa: A Land of Details and Encounters

What truly defines this journey is not the landscapes, but the encounters. West Africa is not a land of “epic natural wonders,” but a continent shaped primarily by its people and cultural diversity. In each country, in every city, in every village, you meet people who improvise, who live, who fight and who share. Here, it quickly becomes clear that life goes on, no matter how bad the roads or the weather.

The true value of this journey lies not in the “epic” views, but in the changes it brings. West Africa challenges you – as a traveler and as a human being. You’ll place less importance on luxury and develop more understanding of life and the challenges faced by its people. You’ll become quieter, clearer, stronger. You’ll learn what really matters.

Conclusion: Should You Do It? Yes, absolutely.
This journey will change you. It will challenge you, push you to your limits and there will be moments when you won’t know how to move forward. But you’ll also discover just how strong you truly are.

Would we do it again? No, definitely not.
Not because it was bad – but because it demands everything from you. It’s a journey that you should experience only once in your life. But this experience will stay with you for the rest of your life.

We’re truly glad we had the courage to take on this journey – and deeply grateful we were able to do it. Even though it was often exhausting and became increasingly demanding, we wouldn’t trade this part of our trip for anything. It was breathtaking, adventurous, grand and unforgettable – yet also grueling, punishing and at times deeply challenging. An absolutely spectacular experience we’re now thankful has come to an end.

Along the way, we met quite a few other travelers – and we also heard countless stories about people who didn’t make it all the way through. Many turned back early or ended their trip halfway, not because they lacked passion or preparation, but because the stress simply became too much. The constant uncertainty, the never-ending logistics, the daily “what’s next?” pressure and the mental load of always having to stay alert can wear you down faster than you’d ever expect.

For some, it was the bureaucracy that broke them: borders that took forever, documents that suddenly weren’t “right” anymore, or rules that seemed to change from one hour to the next. For others, it was the vehicle – small issues turning into big problems, parts that couldn’t be found, repairs that took days and the realization that in some places you don’t just fix a breakdown… you live inside it until it’s solved. And then there are the costs. Even if you try to travel on a budget, West Africa can surprise you with expenses that feel completely disproportionate – visas, checkpoints, “fees”, overpriced accommodation when camping isn’t an option and the constant need to adapt your plans on the fly.

What makes it even harder is that there are no real breaks. You don’t get to switch off. Even on “easy” days you’re thinking ahead: fuel, safety, road conditions, weather, where to sleep, how to avoid trouble, how to stay healthy. You’re always calculating, always negotiating, always making decisions – and that continuous pressure is exactly what pushes many people to quit. Not because they are weak, but because the journey is relentless.

And honestly? We understand every single one of them. There were moments when we questioned our own choices, when we felt drained, overstimulated and just tired of having to fight for every little thing. West Africa doesn’t hand you comfort. It doesn’t care about your plans. It forces you to let go of control – and that is both the hardest part and the greatest lesson.

Finishing this route gave us a quiet kind of pride. Not the loud “look what we did” kind – but the deep feeling of having endured something real. We came out of it changed: tougher, humbler and far more grateful for the simplest things. And while we’re happy it’s over, we’ll always carry it with us – as one of the most intense chapters of our lives.

Our TRANSAFRICA TRAVELmap

From Morocco to Kenya – overland, unsupported and as raw as it gets. This route reflects 2 years of dust, diesel, detours and discovery.
Each marker tells a story: some beautiful, some bitter, but all real.
It’s not the fastest way, but it’s ours.

And if you’re planning your own journey through West Africa:
Help yourself!

This map includes everything you might need for your own adventure
– A fully recorded track through each individual country
– Accurate GPS coordinates for campsites and wild spots
– Border crossings with detailed notes
– Visa and bureaucracy info by country
– Road conditions with pictures
– Fuel stops and diesel quality notes
– Safety tips and checkpoint locations
– Mechanics, markets and supply points
– Personal comments and warnings
– Dozens of pictures
– Links to our videos on youtube

It’s not just a map – it’s a lived route. Use it. Adapt it. Make it yours.

The map is still a work in progress and I’m working on it every day. In August/September we’ll most likely be in Kenya and by then the map editing should be completed.
Until that time, the map is completely free to access – but donations are very welcome😌
(details you’ll find inside the map).

Just send me an email or click on the map. Google will then ask me to approve access for you.

Read the blog about the TRANSafrica TRAVELmap for further informations and many more details.
And hey… visit our traveler buddy “Lubo”, who set up another pretty good resource for Africa travelers recently. Whether it’s about Visa, Border Crossings or even accomodations : you’ll find some very helpful infos here.

Enjoy!
Yours Totti from TRAVELcandies-On-Tour

The post Through The Wild West Of Africa appeared first on TRAVELcandies-On-Tour.

SAUDI ARABIA – road guide

TiKay — Tue, 25 Jul 2023 12:04:21 +0000

Initially, this blog was meant to be an extension of our recently published TRAVELmap, but I quickly realised it is way more than that. So from now on, I will simply call it “blog”.

Welcome to our Saudi Arabia blog. Saudi Arabia is a country with a lot of culture and a long history. Since opening its doors to tourism in 2019, it has been inviting travellers from around the world to explore the country. For a long time, Saudi Arabia was a destination accessible to only a few, but in recent years, the country has changed a lot and is becoming more welcoming for tourists. With huge desert landscapes, modern cities, historical sites and a friendly population, Saudi Arabia offers many different experiences for visitors.
In this blog, I am sharing useful information, insider tips and stories from the road to give you a real idea of what travelling in modern Saudi Arabia is like.

In 2022/2023, we travelled through Saudi Arabia, covering around 15,000 kilometres within six months in our 4×4 Mercedes Sprinter 311. During this time, we crossed the Saudi Arabian border eight times, starting our main route in Oman and making our way up to Jordan, trying to explore as much as possible. During our first attempt, the temperatures reached 52°C, which made it hard to travel, according to our plans. Because of that, we decided to stay longer and restart the route, with a few changes this time around.

It was such a great ride through a country, that has been isolated from the world for so long, that I ended up putting together an extensive map, showing the most amazing places in this huge and beautiful country.

:: A Brief Introduction Into Saudi Arabia ::

Saudi Arabia, the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, is the largest country in the Middle East, spanning over 2.15 million square kilometers and therefore is 2,5 times bigger than germany, for instance. With a population of approximately 34 million people, it boasts a diverse cultural and ethnic landscape, predominantly composed of Arab inhabitants. Islam is the official religion of the country, greatly influencing its culture and societal norms.

The historical significance of Saudi Arabia dates back thousands of years, with ancient civilizations such as the Nabateans and Lihyanites having flourished in the region. However, the Arabian Peninsula gained prominence in the 7th century as the birthplace of Islam, playing a pivotal role during the Islamic Golden Age.

Saudi Arabia operates as an absolute monarchy, governed by the House of Saud, with the monarch serving as the head of state. The country adheres to a conservative interpretation of Islamic law, shaping its political structure and legal system, which are founded on Sharia principles.

Renowned as one of the world’s leading producers and exporters of oil, Saudi Arabia plays a critical role in the global economy. The country possesses vast oil reserves, contributing significantly to its GDP. However, recognizing the need for economic diversification, Saudi Arabia has embarked on initiatives like Vision 2030, aimed at reducing its reliance on oil and fostering growth in sectors such as tourism, entertainment, and technology.

On the international stage, Saudi Arabia holds substantial influence due to its strategic location, economic prowess, and its status as the birthplace of Islam. It actively participates in regional and global affairs, maintaining strong relationships with key stakeholders. It is a member of prominent organizations such as the Arab League, the Organization of Islamic Cooperation and the Gulf Cooperation Council.

In recent years, Saudi Arabia has embarked on a path of social reform, introducing measures to grant more rights to women, encouraging cultural activities and promoting tourism. These efforts are part of a broader modernization agenda, aimed at improving the country’s international reputation. However, Saudi Arabia continues to face scrutiny and criticism concerning issues related to human rights and freedom of expression.

:: People, Culture and Religion ::

Amongst others in many other countries, Saudi Arabians are some of the kindest and friendliest people, we ever met. They are interested, curious, peaceful and very, very welcoming.
They always offer their help, they like get photographed (not so much the women, but if you’re lucky, even women are lifting their Hijab and Niqab for you and a photo). Males are very open and always searching for a nice talk, but women are more shy to tourists and travelers. Once you smile at them, they come towards you and “bomb” you with questions (how cute😍).

Of course they’re muslims, but as most of them are from “sunni (sunna)”, they won’t try to “infiltrate” you. (Because it’s forbidden to them to convert people and they do not have any problem with christians, nor with atheists, but the last topic is always up to your own communication skills).

Their culture is pretty much “simple” nowadays, I would say. They like smells of perfume (don’t wonder, when they’re spraying you), hanging out in huge shopping malls, they go for camping (but not in that way, we are used to), they love the luxury and are using Snapchat, TikTok and Instagram a lot and: they might prey up to 8 times a day (whereas 5 times is mandatory). In the summer you won’t see so much while the daytime, as they affectionately call themselves “Vampires” ;).
Once the sun goes down, they’re flooding the beaches, streets, cities and markets. But there’s so much more to say about these “Saudis”, that I would suggest you find it out by yourself 😁.

Saudi Arabian food is tasty, but very monotonous for our personal taste: Kabsa and Sayadieh:
The first one is chicken with rice, the other one fish and rice. They eat it 3 times a day, at least this is, what Saudis often told us. Of course they got a few more dishes, but that’s it, basically.

The restaurants are nice so far and here you will get different dishes. All of them have been very tasty, but also very expensive. Not an option for everyday life.

If you wanna see more of the authentic life of the Saudi Arabian people, visit the gallery of our travel buddy Robert Klinger.

:: Dress Code ::

Saudi Arabia has a conservative dress code influenced by Islamic traditions and cultural norms. The dress code for both men and women in Saudi Arabia is modest and conservative.
In general one can say, that men are wearing a long white robe called a “thobe” or “dishdasha”, which is often worn with a headdress called “ghutra”, “keffiyeh” or “shemagh”, whereas women are required to cover their bodies in loose-fitting, modest clothing. The traditional Saudi female dress is called “abaya”, a black cloak that covers the entire body, sometimes accompanied by a “hijab” and/or a or face veil, called “niqab” .
Foreigners visiting or living in Saudi Arabia are expected to respect the local customs and adhere to the modest dress code.

But things changed a bit in Saudi Arabia, as Mohammed Bin Salman also changed the laws regarding the mandatory abaya for women.
Now they can choose if they wanna wear the abaya or not and you will see lots of women – especially in Jeddah – who often wearing western clothes and women who are showing a lot of skin and hair.

Nobody really cares, what foreigners are wearing. I for myself often worn shorts and Fenny prefered T-Shirts with short arms where of course a lot of skin has been visible. We never ever ran into any trouble or had conversations about our dress code, but we also saw women with hot pants or mini-skirts. We personally would avoid that though.

That said, you do not have to wear an abaya as a female foreigner, nor you really have to cover all your skin or your hair. This is western thinking and obsolete. There’s also no such thing like “cultural appropriation”. If you wanna wear an abaya or a dishdasha, just do so and Saudi people will really appreciate.

This all does not apply, when visiting mosques. Here’s a strong dress code and you will be asked as a man to wear long wide trousers, whereas for women an abaya and hijab is mandatory.

Sometimes it might happen, that you will be invited for dinner and people are asking you – as a woman – to wear an abaya. It’s up to you, if you accept or deny. We only have been asked once and we denied, because it was just way too hot.

If you respectfully tell your hosts, that it isn’t part of your culture, as well as there isn’t any law about it in the KSA, most people will understand and tolerate. But we just had it one time. So: nobrainer.

Just one thing for the “beach day”: If you’ll find a beach, you barely will see muslims swimming. We never saw them in the KSA. If you wanna swim, do so, but expect a lot of views from local men.
In a bikini or in a swimsuite you are basically nearly completely naked for them. I would advise to don’t do that. We also find it extremely offensive to the Saudi Arabian women.

:: Currency and Money ::

They are using “Saudi Rials (SAR)”. 1 Rial is 0,24€cents.
In every bigger city you’ll find dozens of ATM’s. Tiny buildings as a self-service machine, directly at the road side. Some ATM’s are only in arabic, which makes it pretty difficult to get your coins.
We highly recommend RAJHI ATMs, when these machines are directly located at a bank, because we didn’t pay any fees here and also, because the machine might suck your credit-cards.

The price ranges are a bit higher and sometimes so high, that you can’t believe your eyes. We found it more expensive than in germany for instance. On the other side the Diesel price is the second lowest on the planet: r.a. 16€cents per liter. Only Iran is cheaper (yes, a 16th of one liter in the KSA… you read it right🤷‍♀️)

:: Traffic, Fuel, Workshops, Spare-Parts::

I need to say, that Saudis are – amongst maybe Indians – are the worst drivers on the planet. They just drive like crazy, insane and without any common sense… and they do not care about foreigners (they’re like “Dr. Jekyll und Mister Hyde“, when sitting behind a stearing wheel).
Be very, very carefull while driving in cities like Riyadh, Jeddah, Mekka, Medina, Hail and other bigger ones. No, be careful everywhere🤷‍♀️.

That brings us to another very annyoing point: Speed-bumbs, humps and rattle lines. Saudi Arabia has thousands of them, spread over the whole country. Sometimes it happens, that you pass a sign which says “100 kmh” and 50m further you’ll jump over one of these insane speed-bumps, which can be very tall. You might brake your car.

Spoken about the cars:
Once you enter the country, you will see thousands over thousands of kinda new cars, which are heavily broken. Saudi Arabia’s traffic fatalities are the highest on planet earth. Be very careful!

I really cannot give tipps how to drive, because it just doesn’t matter, if you are very slow, very fast or just doing nothing. They might get you, that’s just it🤷‍♀️.

I guess in the KSA are as much gas stations as in Turkey for instance and mostly you’ll find Diesel everywhere, even though it can be, that you may need to wait for some hours to get some fuel (mostly in the north east). The Diesel is very cheap and quality wise OK so far.
That means it might not be Euro-Diesel (maybe Euro 1 or 2?), but we never had any problems, nor did it emit a strong odor from the exhaust (which is an indication of poor quality). However, be cautious with any Diesel Heater. This one might get clogged. Fortunately, you won’t need it most of the time.

Talking about workshops, I need to say, that the standard is way beyond (!) the european one. Be prepared, very careful and never let your car alone.
Mechanics won’t understand the purpose of our car. They’ll just fix it for the next few hundreds of kilometers until it will break again. I could write books about it. Just sayin’😉

Driven cars in Saudi Arabia are Toyota, Nissan, Kia, Hyundai and some chinese brands. If you drive anything else: bring-your-spare-parts! If they need to order, it costs a kidney and takes months probably (we paid a lot and waited 2 months for ours).
They always will tell you, that they will find any spare-part here, but they definitely won’t. Don’t waste your time here🤷‍♀️.
If you drive a Sprinter for instance, I need to say, they do not have even one single piece for that car, but if you drive a Hilux, it’ll be heaven on earth for you. At Mercedes we should have waited 6 weeks for the parts to arrive. Do not even count on your luck, just saying 😉

Here you can read our (german) Facebook-article about our experiences, as well as a list of spare-parts, which you could/should bring, when traveling through the arabian peninsula.

:: International Shipping TIP::

If you need to ship your parts or anything else from another country to Saudi Arabia, I highly recommend avoiding Saudi Post. Despite being the national postal service of Saudi Arabia, it simply doesn’t work well. Their service is not just chaotic, but also unreliable. There have been several instances where we really had big problems receiving our packages.

There are multiple options available, but DHL Express stands out as the best among them. Yes, it is more expensive, and we have tried all three of their services (standard, priority, and express). With DHL Express, you can be confident that your package will arrive in Saudi Arabia after 5-7 days. However, the same cannot be said for DHL’s standard and premium/priority services, as they work in conjunction with Saudi Post (it costed us 21 and 27 days and the items always have been stuck at the customs). DHL Express directly ships to a connected DHL Express Service Station or Hub, and the shipment tracking works flawlessly until the end.

Fortunately, there is a reliable service available in Saudi Arabia called “Collect and Ship.” It is a package forwarding service, and we have used it several times without any issues.

Here’s how it works:

Create a free account with Collect and Ship.
You will receive a virtual address, which serves as the packing center of Collect and Ship. Additionally, you will receive an ID that must always be included in your address when ordering parts.
Once you place an order, Collect and Ship will receive the package. After a few days, you will find it in your account. They will take photos of the parts you ordered, and if you have multiple packages, they will repack them free of charge. Once your orders are consolidated and complete, you provide your physical address, and Collect and Ship will deliver your package anywhere in the country. This means you don’t have to wait for an extended period. You also can submit GPS-coordinates to a parking lot or a park or whatever, but we always chose a DHL Hub.

You will make the payment after that, which is very affordable compared to German prices.

Here’s an example:
We ordered spare parts from Germany, Aliexpress, and Amazon. All these items were sent to Collect and Ship. They repackaged everything, took photographs, and sent it to the nearest DHL station in Tabuk (we were in Jeddah at that time). A few days after our arrival in Tabuk, the package arrived without any hassle at the DHL Hub.

With Collect and Ship, you can ensure a reliable and hassle-free package forwarding experience in Saudi Arabia.

Just to clarify, we recommend the service mentioned above, but we are not affiliated with them in any way. We have provided this recommendation based on our own positive experiences and do not receive any payment for making this recommendation.

:: Security, Military and Police ::

First of all, they got lots of it – Security and Police.
Saudi Arabia is the best example for nearly 100% Security. The only issues they have, are some prostitution and drug-things, but overall a policeman has “nothing big to do” (we spoke to a lot of them). The police and military is all around, not as much as in Iraq, but you’ll notice them everywhere.
They are very kind and friendly and the police isn’t allowed to seize tourists or travelers (as they’re “sent by Allah”, something like that).
Of course this only applies, as long as you’re not doing something really bad.
They offer their help all the way, but might ask you also for your passports. Some travelers reported us, that they were followed by the undercover police for a couple of days. We found that very strange, as we never ever had any issue with them. We like them, nothing else.

Just to mention it in two sentences:
There’s no such thing as “morality police” anymore. At least not in the former constellation and their job is anything else. So do not be worried!!!

The KSA is so safe, that we always – also in the night – have been sleeping with wide opened slide doors and windows of our Sprinter. Even though there were lots of laptops, photographic equipment and all the other stuff with lots of value laying around. They rather would prefer to chop their hands, instead of robbing you.
On the one hand they just don’t need our stuff and on the other, they got quite archaic laws, especially when it’s about travelers and/or stealing.

You can feel 100% safe… and… we’re still alive

:: Visa, Border Crossing – Car and Passenger Registration ::

In short #1: nobrainer.
In short #2: NO Carnet De Passage (and if you have one: DO NOT USE IT PLEASE and care about other overlanders, who haven’t one)

The Visa you will get easily here: VisitSaudi
Costs: 500 Rial (incl. health insurance), approx. 122€ per person.

With a tourist (multi entry) Visa you are eligible to stay in the KSA for 90 days within 180 days.
In this time you can cross the border as often as you like. The Visa is NOT extendable tough!

The Saudi Arabian borders are one of the easiest and friendliest, we’ve been passing up to now.
Car Customs -> Passenger Registration -> Insurance -> Finished.

We crossed all the borders in the KSA from Kuwait, Jordan, Emirates, Bahrain and Oman 8 times and we never had any issue, nor it took a long time. Mostly our crossing took between 45-50 minutes.

:: Mobile Providers, WiFi, Internet ::

Zain, STC and Mobily are the main providers for SIM-cards and it mostly takes ages to finally get the contract.
STC works very well and has the best price-performance ratio. It’s expensive to get a good amount of data, but all of these solutions are working more or less good, even in the deserts. We didn’t have any bigger problems.

WiFi / WLan isn’t really present like in other countries, but of course cafes and restaurants will provide you with that. Here and there, they got these WifI-Pillars at the beach, but they barely work and maybe you don’t wanna spend your precious time at the beaches all the time.

:: Water And Gas Situation ::

Finding water is a nobrainer in the KSA.
We mostly got it from mosques or gas stations. Nobody will charge you for that, but if there are any persons, just ask proforma (nobody will deny). When driving in more remote areas you might see big white water-tanks in the middle of nowhere. At first we were in doubt, but their water is chrystal clear, tastes very well and at a certain point we thought, that it might be for people, who are coming along the road, as animals are using different water sources.
Mostly you’ll find a tap or a hose and we would say that you can drink the water without hesitation.
(Nevertheless a filter might be a good idea anyway)

If you’re uncertain about this type of water, of couse you can buy it anywhere, but we think, it’s not necessary, as we never had any issues (I am a bit more sensitive to food and water).

Cooking Gas is a different story though, as they have their own filling system.
That said, you won’t find any station, that can fill up your gas bottles from outer country.
In Bahrain we bought a common 3 KG gas cylinder (approx. 35€), which can be filled anywhere on the arabian peninsula for just a few bucks (between 1,80€ – 3€).

The separate bottle also had one big advantage. We used it outside of the van, mainly in the front of the Sprinter. Imagine cooking inside the housing, when it has 50°C outside. The inside would have gotten even hotter.

:: Saudi Arabian Attractions ::

In short: You might get disappointed here and there.
Some attractions are simply closed, due to renovation for the upcoming tourism and it could be, that you’ve driven hundreds of kilometers, just for standing in front of a closed entry🤷‍♀️.
Other attractions are only attractions for Saudis. Their way of life and entertaining is quite different. They might love hanging around in “family parks” and “entertainment parks”. They got lots of it.
It’s up to you. We didn’t visit even one.
On the other hand, they got lovely mosques, monuments and historical sites, which are worth a visit. Just check the map.

:: Saudi Arabian Landscapes ::

It depends on your favours, but we loved them all. From the Rub al Khali over Najran, by Al Abha up to the north of Tabuk and Al Ula. Breathtaking. There is so much more to see in Saudi Arabia and this map is just a fraction (even though it contains the most stunning points) and you could spend years in this country.

:: Wild Camping Freedom ::

In the KSA you can park and stay nearly everywhere. Nobody cares… really.
If you wanna camp in the middle of Jeddah – just do so. You prefer the desert – got for it.
It is common for Arabs to be present almost everywhere in Saudi Arabia. It is their land and they utilize it for their comfort. Even if you might think, that it’s not a good idea to camp here and there: as long as there is no fence, just do whatever you wanna do.

Unfortunately, the freedom I mentioned earlier does not apply to the beaches.
Staying there can result in a fine, as camping is not allowed on any (!) beach. The required distance for campers is 500 meters, or you can choose to stay at some of the beach parks (which is possible, of course), but you will likely find that it’s not to your liking. We drove along most of the coastlines and were always asked to leave😕
The police and military might say: “It’s for your safety”, but we do not know the real reason.

:: Do you need a 4×4? ::

Short answer: No!
I’d say, that you can conquer any country with just any car, no matter what size, what power, what drive-train, but a 4×4 will help in certain or uncertain situations and that’s the reason, why we always would choose a 4×4. Additionally it brings you to places, where even locals cannot go with their Sedan.

You might be stunned, when you’d see, with what kind of cars the locals are trying to reach their targets, but at the same time, they always have failures, they always get stuck and they always are in more or less trouble. But: they are chilled about that😉

Especially in the deserts, a 4×4 is essential and you will get stuck with a 4×2 in no time, no matter what. It’s just a question of time and you find yourself in a situation, where you’ll need to dig out your car. And then imagine, it’s 50°C outside.

So having a 4×4 will safe you from stress, from time and it will save your money, but as I said:
As long as you’re not traveling too much off the road, a standard car will also do a great job and you might see lots of interesting attractions.

:: Tips for Desert rides? ::

Sure. You do not need a super fancy Offroad-Vehicle, but if you keep these steps in mind, it’ll give you a good time in the deserts.

Most crucial – and for us it’s the “swiss-knife” is: deflating the tyres.
Depending on your car, you might deflate down to 0,8 to 0.5bars, which sounds a lot and some drivers might think, that the tyre will come off the rim and yes… that can happen, but you can avoid it, by carefully driving.

Let’s explain our strategy:
Our Sprinter is a manual 4×4 with diff-locks and it weighs approx. 3.5T.
When we drive into the desert, we don’t use the 4×4 initially. At a certain point we get stuck, obviously.
Then I turn on the 4×4 and we can drive further, but we get stuck again. Then we deflate our tyres down to 1,5 bar (3,8 bar is our generic pressure). Deflating helps a lot and we do not need the diff-locks (I always try to do not use them). If we get stuck again, I deflate further down to 1 bar, then to 0,8 bar, which is the lowest at this stage. With these settings we are able to drive most of the deserts, up to a certain extent. When it is getting too steep, we must give up. Even a diff lock wouldn’t help (but later I’ll come back to this one).

If we get stuck with 4×4 and 0.8bar, I’ll use the diff locks. This will help in 60% of the cases.
If it doesn’t help, I’ll need to drive backwards, searching for another route. If it works, it works, if not, then I’ll search for another trail. After 3 tries we always give up and drive back.

Power
What we do not like, is the less power of our Sprinter. 109 HP, 220nm isn’t much.
But it’s a big advantage in the desert, because: we can not dig ourselves in. It’s impossible.
When the Sprinter gets stuck, the engine shuts down more or less immediately. If I start it again, it doesn’t provide enough power to spin the wheels, which prevents the Sprinter from digging itself into the sand and this is super great.

So once the car is really stuck, the only way is the way back – and this works in 95% of all cases. If it doesn’t work, I’ll deflate the tyres down to 0,5%. And this – in combination with some digging – is the last stage as sandboards aren’t any solution for us (even though we have them). I’ll take my spade, dig a little bit and I’m done, but taking off the sandboards is way too much work and in some cases I’m really too lazy. I do not need to get into any desert, just for the sake of being able to say, that I was there🤷‍♀️.

Be carefull!
I advise to not take the Arabian deserts lightly. Of course it seems to be a playground for desert-and offroad enthusiats, but lots of people also died there. Many arabs warned us to never ever go alone and that the desert might come with lots of quicksands, especially the Rub Al Khali (which is the largest contiguous sand desert in the world).
Always take enough water and food and beware of scorpions and snakes. A UV-light helps to see the scorpions at night. If you wanna go alone – and I repeat myself, to don’t do it – give your last coordinates to friends and tell them, in which perimeter or circumference you plan to travel.

Dune-Bashing
I know it makes a lot of fun, but it also can crash your car. Try to read the sand and try to read the shape and expansion of the dunes. Some sands are really soft and even with the strongest 4×4 you’ll be lost, some of these sands are harder and probably could be driven with a standard car. But the devil is always in the details, so the sand can have a strong surface which holds you, but once you reach it with your car, you immediately stuck.

We didn’t do any dune bashing with our Sprinter, but we did it a lot in Morocco with our Jeep Wrangler. It makes fun but must be mastered!

:: Drone Flying ::

Well, this is a topic that is often discussed and I must admit that many places are best appreciated for their holy beauty when seen from above. That’s why I always find it worth taking the risk of using a drone.
In general I can say, that it is not always forbidden to fly in the most of the countries, but of course you’ll need to do some research for every single one.
For Saudi Arabia I wanted to register the drone officially (DJI Mavic 2 Pro). I found a website and wrote them an email. I never got any response, as I barely got any email-response from any Arab. They do not seem to like email, even though I wrote them in arabic. (ChatGPT did a great job on that 😉 )

If you cannot register your drone, you are not allowed to fly. That’s just it🤷‍♀️.
But as I have been flying in more than 50 countries – even without a registration – I’ll go on with that. If you’ll be aware of where you are flying, I wouldn’t make a mind, because nobody would say anything, when you’re using your bird in the middle of the Rub al Khali, where there’s just nothing.

As long as you do not photograph or film any official building and as long as you’re not flying inside cities, you’ll be fine, I would say. That means on the other side, that your lovely movies never will contain any kind of public life on the beaches, in the cities or at any viewpoints, when there are lots of people. I do not care, I just don’t wanna run into trouble and in this case, I only fly, when there are no or very less people around and I never fly inside a city or a village. I always try to keep a distance of a few kilometers and rather prefer to zoom in later on, if I’m too far away from what I wanted to film.

:: Drone importing, when coming by land borders ::

Since 13 years I’m using drones now and the biggest one has been a DJI Phantom.
I took it in my flight baggage or I brought it through the borders and I never ever had any single issue.
I do NOT lie, when they ask me for a drone, nor I hide it obviously, but I found my communication-ways to distract them from asking further and I got my places to store it, so that nobody ever could say, that I “smuggle” or hide it on purpose.

That said, it is just up to you, your self-consciousness and your communication skills, how you deal with that topic. If you are uncertain, just leave it at home, because you need to know, that if they catch you in a very bad moment, you might get arrested and the drone might get confiscated. Like in Iran, you also might get arrested for a couple of years!
We had it in Jordan and Armenia, that I got caught and in Jordan, they wanted to arrest me and wanted to confiscate our drone. Most important is here: stay calm, never ever get aggressive, be very friendly and try to catch them by emotions.
Do not exaggerate, but explain them in a very pragmatic way, what your purpose is, that you want to support their country, show them your movies, offer them a coffee and have a nice chat. For us it worked all the time. Alhamdulillah

What worked for us, doesn’t need to work for others!
Always import and use your drone at YOUR VERY OWN RISK!

:: LGBTIQ+ ::

I never would have imagined, that I would talk about it, because I just do not care, what people are doing, how they are living and what they are. People are people. Everything’s fine here.

Not so in other countries but: do NOT despair!
It is nor a secret, neither a mystery, that this topic is a tabu in a lot of our 192 countries. Live with that!

But there’s always a “but”: Never, ever be so stupid to believe in western media. Do NOT do that!
People won’t be killed in Saudi Arabia (Sharia-blabla) just for being gay, trans or whatever.

We met (forgive me the term) an “obviously-super-gay-couple” in Ryiadh (more conservative) and I was shocked, that their appearance have been that – let’s call it – straight to the point.

One of them made me an offer:
“I really would like to marry you” (and hugged me in the middle of the city-center).
I asked them: “You guys are cute, but it seems, that you are gay, r8?”
“Yes… is it visible?”, they smiled.
“And you don’t get in any trouble?”
“No, as long as we’re not kissing in public, everything is fine.”
“OK, you really never had any issues?”
“No, why we should? Homosexuality is spread all over the world. People here are not talking about it, but it’s existent. That’s just it.”

Look, how easy it can be! Be what you are, but of course, be with a bit of caution.
That means: Do NOT be woke. At first: it’s not your right, to teach people and at a certain point, you might run in bigger trouble. Secondly: They never will understand!
But when I talk about “teaching”, it doesn’t necessarily mean, that you shouldn’t try to make them understand. Sometimes it works, as I tried it a few times!

They do not care about any so called “wokeness” and they do not wait for their enlightment given by you, but they might tolerate and might show respect – also here: it’s just up to your communication-skill.

Do not speak about politics if you don’t know how and don’t get aggressive, when they’re digging bad ol’ Adolf, do not try to convince them of any ways of living and mind-sets of western people. In this case, they are NOT interested at all. Keep in mind, that Saudi Arabia runs through a big transformation, as Mohammad Bin Salman (crown prince and absolute ruler of the KSA) changed a lot (to what we call “to the better”).
They at first need to get used to their new rules, apart from the fact, that Saudi Arabia was nearly completely isolated from the rest of the world until 2019. Just give them time. Rome also wasn’t built in 3 days!
It’s on a very good way – thanks to MBS – but it is still a very conservative country.

:: Saudi Arabia In The Summer – Not A Good Idea ::

You might think, that 32°C are hot. And you are right. I never could have imagined staying in a country like Saudi Arabia, where temperatures easily exceeding 40°C in no time.
But this is what happend and this is what happens every single summer.
Due to our Visa-Schedules we hadn’t any other chance to try to get used to it or to leave the country immediately. We decided to stay… and we made it.
Our hottest temperature has been 52°C so far and we stood for 6 months in this unbelievable heat, in conjunction with many sand storms. When I say storms, I mean storms, because the KSA has lots of “Sandstorm Areas“.
Fortunately, nothing bad happened to us or our car. However, our friends sent us pictures from within a storm, and this beast shattered two windows of their Landy. They just broke, apart from the fact, that it destroyed the brand new varnish of the car.

Not even we had to suffer. A friend called us from Ryiadh and told us, that his iPhone cable just melted. A few days later, nearly every single battery from our cameras, drones and powerbanks started to blow up.
10 batteries got completely unusable. 3 batteries from the DJI drone, 3 smartphone and one tablet battery, 2 new goPro batteries, as well as a huge powerbank (for starting the car) just gave up.
On top of that our charging booster melted as well. It just melted without melting the fuse itself.
That was a desaster and I didn’t count the dozens of plastic gadgets, which melted or broke. My NIKE Sunglasses (with visual acuity), dozens of knobs, hinges, handles etcpp.

After a couple of weeks, my skin started to change. It more and more felt like an orange and I felt sick more often. I was sweating 24 hours a day and I spent more time on cooling myself down, than enjoying the country.
But hey… we found ways to deal with that. Batteries and smartphones have been placed in the fridge, we bought additional fans and we used the evaporative cooling effect, by wetting towels completely and using them as a shield for preventing overheating ourselves. It worked and we got adapted the sooner or later.

Tip: What definitely does not work, is just hanging a wet towel anywhere. You always will need an airflow, generated by wind or by a fan. If you’re using a wet towel for your body, you immediately feel, how cold it gets and in many situations I needed to take the towel away, because it was getting too cold. No joke!

That said, nothing is impossible, it’s just the will, but nevertheless we highly recommend not to come to Saudi Arabia in the summer. We would say that November to March is a quite nice time to fully enjoy the country. Everything else borders on masochism, naivety… or: lack of time.

:: Things to take into consideration ::

Of course not everything in the KSA is shining bright and Saudis won’t like, when I’m talking about it.

Saudi Arabia has unbelievable amounts of trash. “Every-single-fucking-where”😭.
You might get shocked, others might leave the country immediately. We can’t find words for their behaviour, when it’s up to clean up their camps or picknick-sites. They just throw their trash everywhere.
Please: DO NOT judge it. Just be the audience, but do NOT tell them to take their trash. That is presumptuous and arrogant.
After such a long time in this country, we got used to all this tons over tons of trash. At a certain point we even didn’t see it anymore. This belongs to all the arabian countries and there’s no exception. After having vistited 74 countries, this one is the second most trashed country so far.

Where there is a lot of trash, there may be a strong odor, but there are certainly a lot of mosquitoes and horseflies. I’m not sure if “horseflies” is the right translation, but in Germany, they are called “Wadenbeißer,” and these insects are extremely annoying.

While Ramadan and/or Hajj (Haddsch) and in the very, very hot summer, lots of localities are closed and might only open at night (I bought my new laptop at 2am at X-Cite). In this case you’ll need to prepare yourself and you may find it annyoing to buy stuff, because either the shop is closed until the night or they close it for praying or it is closed because it’s too hot or it’s closed because they just don’t wanna open it🤷‍♀️.

They barely have forests or greenery and you might miss green gras… because here it’s often artificial one. They do not have any bigger trees – or lets say “less”, nor you really find any shadow, when it starts to burn. It’s a desert country, and that’s what you have to be prepared for. But that’s also why you choose to come to a country like this, right?

When it starts to get really hot, you might search for shadow, but maybe you won’t find any.
Either you start to visit the malls, but then you’ll need winter clothes, because temps are going down to 16°C, or you’re equipped with an air-condition or – like we – you decide to survive. We never went into hotels or any other accomodation, as it is against our philosophy. OK, we have an air-condition, but not in our living space, rather than in front of the car.

Political Situation
Even though I don’t wanna talk too much about it, you need to know, where you are.
Saudi Arabia is ruled by an “absolute ruler”. We might call it “Dictactorship”.
The rules and laws are strong and talking bad about the Kings-Family might bring you in lots of trouble and I highly guess, your phone will be spied (you always will get messages by the former “morality police”, asking you to bring any kind of “bad words against the Kings-Family” to attention).

We never made any bad experience and Saudi Arabia seems to be very stable, but of course they still suffer from terroristic attacks. That said, stay away from any demonstration or bulks of shouting and complaining people. You never know, what can happen.

Many people are still very conservative. They won’t tell you, but you’ll get it the sooner or later, once you’re talking to them. In this case, be a bit more carefull.

:: Do’s and Don’ts ::

I won’t enumerate every single “do that” or “don’t do that”, as I highly count on “common sense”, but here are some things you’ll need to keep in mind.

The “Do’s”

. Camp wherever you want, but not on the beaches (it might work, but mostly not).
. Wear whatever you want, as long as it’s not too “eye catching”.
. Don’t be shy, wear their dresses, if you like. They love it.
. Take the things, Saudis might give you. They appreciate it.
. Take invitations of course, but listen, how often they ask.
. Make political conversations, why not, but keep in mind: You are being listened to 😉
. If the police might be too “enthusiastic”: Show them their limits, but be careful.
. Of course you can deny to do “this” or “that”: Tell them, that it’s not your culture.
. You can visit Medina. It’s allowed now, but keep in mind: they are very conservative.
. Learn just some arabic words. They love it and you’ll get new friends immediately.
. Of course ask them to take off their shoes, when coming inside your mobile home.
. Be somewhat cautious when coming from the LGBTIQ community, but do not hesitate to come here.
. As a woman: If men are getting “too close”, show and tell them their limits immediately!
. Live your life and live your dream.

The “Don’ts”
. Avoid camping on beaches and keep a distance of 500m to the coast.
. As a couple do not kiss or hug in public. Keeping hands could work, I dunno.
. Do not give hands to women, nor touch them. They’ll come to you, if they want.
. Do not wear super tight “disco”- dresses.
. Don’t go for a swim in a bikini or a swimsuite.
. Never ever go to Mekkah, do not even try. A friend got arrested for one day.
. Never ever be rude, disrespecteful or offending.
. Never ever talk bad about the islam, muslims and the government.
. Never ever insist on rights you might do not have (“it’s my place, I was here before”).
. Do not even try to be too woke and don’t tell them to take their trash for instance.
. Do not take their trash instead. Leave it where it is. It’s a lot wasted energy.
. Better do not try to teach them. Their history is rich and they survived without western ideologies.
. Do not smoke or eat in front of locals, while Ramadan.
. Do not try to invite them for dinner: they never will accept😉

:: Last and least ::

There are three ways to travel in Saudi Arabia.
· The “touristic” way: Chilling at the beaches, sleeping in hotels, doing some sight-seeings and having a good time.

· The “travelers” way: Listening, learning, experiencing and conquering the country as much as possible.

· The “empathic” way: Feel, what they feel, try to be them, try to understand their way of living and be as tolerant and empathic as possible and do not judge.

You might not understand everything and nobody will judge you for that. But showing empathy will bring you much more forward and at a certain point, you might even understand the “Philosophy of the Sharia” (which is NOT as bad, as it seems).

To us they said: “Saudi Arabia is your country” or “You are real Kuwaitis” (getting goose-bumps, while remembering).

Do yourself and your mindset a big favour, take all the knowledge (or the most) you got from western media and just put it here: To Trash!

It’s not only the landscapes and nature, what makes Saudi Arabia so special and sometimes you’ll get disappointed, but there’s so much more which doesn’t meet the eye and that will enlighten you to an extent you never would have believed.
This is, what we did. Never ever we have been in so much contact to locals. We met thousands of people and spoke to hundreds of them. We spoke about the “Holy Quran“, the muslim way of thinking, their traditions, about politics and about what is good and what is bad. We learned so much from them and I hope, they learned from us as well.

Saudi Arabia is different, it’s special, it’s interesting and mind blowing and at a certain point you’ll forget, what makes this country also so “bad”.

Yours, Totti from TRAVELcandies On Tour

(All that being said, this article is 100% based on our own personal experiences. We did not rely on media sources to gather this information, although there may be some links provided that can further support our claims. If that is the case, we can confirm their validity)

:: Finally here’s our Saudi Arabia Map::
(click upper right corner to expand and jump to Google)

· Free to use, share and embed
· Approx. 500 POis altogether
· 250 Attractions (most with images and description)
· Overnight Places
· Logistic POI’s like gas stations, water sources, etc.
· Our recorded driven route (~ 15.000 km)
· Route recommendation (7500 km)
· Different categories and recognizable icons

The post SAUDI ARABIA – road guide appeared first on TRAVELcandies-On-Tour.

TRAVELcandies-On-Tour

2 Years Overlanding Through Africa – Our Conclusion

2 Years Overlanding in Africa

In This Article:

Africa is not always about landscapes. Africa is about people and culture.

Who we are and how we travel

What is overlanding for us?

We have the watches, Africa has the time.

How it all started

The Challenges of Overlanding Africa

How We Felt the Countries

Africa Is Not Really All About Countries

What We Did Not Consider

The Gateway To Africa – MOROCCO 🇲🇦 (and western Sahara)

MAURITANIA 🇲🇷

SENEGAL 🇸🇳

THE GAMBIA 🇬🇲

GUINEA 🇬🇳

IVORY COAST 🇨🇮

GHANA 🇬🇭

TOGO 🇹🇬

BENIN 🇧🇯

NIGERIA 🇳🇬

And then Nigeria delivered exactly that chaos – and so much more.

CAMEROON 🇨🇲

REPUBLIC OF THE CONGO 🇨🇬

DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF THE CONGO 🇨🇩

Angola 🇦🇴 – A New Chapter Begins

NAMIBIA 🇳🇦

SOUTH AFRICA 🇿🇦 – When Dreams Collide with Reality

LESOTHO 🇱🇸 – left us speechless

ESWATINI 🇸🇿 – Kingdom of Eswatini (formerly Swaziland)

BOTSWANA 🇧🇼

ZIMBABWE 🇿🇼 – Blew us away!

MALAWI 🇲🇼

TANZANIA 🇹🇿

KENYA 🇰🇪

ZAMBIA 🇿🇲 – Our last country for now

Final Words – “The Bottle We never opened”

FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions

Starlink Worldwide

Starlink Worldwide

In This Guide:

Starlink is a satellite internet system by SpaceX , that provides high-speed internet almost anywhere with a clear view of the sky.

Why do we use Starlink?

How Did We Get Starlink?

Being Online In Seconds – 300 MBit – BOOM – Fantastic!

The Good, The Bad, The Ugly

How to Get Started? – Hardware & Software

The Registration Process

You do not need to use your real home address, but the address you enter, should actually exist!

Power Consumption – And How To Connect

So why not simply power the Starlink directly from 12V?Well, this is where things become slightly tricky.

Longer cables (> 3m) = more voltage fluctuation = weak power flow!The thicker the cable, the longer it can be!

The Performance Of Starlink Mini

Starlink Mini is a Data monster

Starlink Roam Plans – For The Traveler

Does Starlink Work In Every Country?

2 Months on the road – and then?

Traveling to another country

Staying Longer Than Two Months

(source: Starlink Terms and Conditions)

Terms & Conditions, Restrictions, Regulations, Do’s and Don’ts and “Mays”

The Starlink Support – is it any good?

You are a paying customer, generating monthly revenue for Starlink

Accounts & Subscriptions – When to cancel and when to pause?

Switching to a new Starlink Account – How to and what to not forget

According to Starlink, the service must first be canceled before it can be transferred, and this is only possible at least 120 days after purchasing the kit or 90 days after activation.

Even without a SIM card, Starlink provides a temporary internet connection that allows you to set up the system and activate a subscription.

Which plan is the right one for me?

For us the 50GB plan was completely unrealistic.

Our Conclusion on Starlink

We want to be online anytime and anywhere

Last update: 16.05.2026

RECENT UPDATES

May 2026: New Roam 300GB Plan & Price Changes

last updated: 21.05.2026

FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions

How to Deal With Corruption as an Overland Traveler

SUMMARY: Dealing With Corruption

So why not simply power the Starlink directly from 12V?
Well, this is where things become slightly tricky.

Longer cables (> 3m) = more voltage fluctuation = weak power flow!
The thicker the cable, the longer it can be!

Friendliness and kindness are always the key.
And a smile disarms – every time.

¹Items we purchased and stored for later use.
²Over time we have drastically reduced these costs as, we now do most of the work ourselves.
³Operating fluids, tires and tools, that I did not previously have.

Asia
€10.555,80

Middle East
€12.501,25

Europe
€14.092,65

Africa
€15.019,75